GarryC | 16/05/2014 11:00:09 |
![]() 740 forum posts 1043 photos | Thought I would quickly put up a photo of my new Grinder - its tiny! I was going to use it in my workmate but think I'll likely use it in the vice, seems to run nice and smooth - the little bolts I used for fixing clamp down the rubber cups that were fitted under the base (included) so no vibration at all . Don't know how much I will use it yet and it would only be for small things I'm sure. Great for £20 incl del. - and the tool steel's arrived and fits my boring bar perfectly.. Wont be fitting the 'eye' guards as I would never use without full face safety wear... 1/8" Tool Steel fits perfectly in the boring bar 3.2mm hole.. May not get the chance to try grinding the tool until tomorrow though.. Regards Allan. |
Bob Brown 1 | 16/05/2014 11:30:39 |
![]() 1022 forum posts 127 photos | You may want to change one of the wheels usually the coarse one to a Silicon Carbide "Green Grit" or a similar one for grinding TCT tooling. Bob |
GarryC | 16/05/2014 18:48:00 |
![]() 740 forum posts 1043 photos | Hi Bob Thanks for the advice, you've encouraged me to do a bit of reading up on this which was again useful. I've been thinking to try some HSS Lathe tools to see if I get a better finish than the replaceable tip tools I'm using now, so I'm sure I'll soon find it useful - and now I'll know to get the 'Green Grit' if the fitted wheel(s) prove not suitable or wear out quickly.. Looking forward to having a go with it.. Cheers Allan. |
Boiler Bri | 16/05/2014 19:18:35 |
![]() 856 forum posts 212 photos | This is a good thread guys.
just one question so far. how do you adjust the tool in the between centre boring bar?
Bri |
Bob Brown 1 | 16/05/2014 19:28:01 |
![]() 1022 forum posts 127 photos | The finer of the two wheels should be fine for HSS or even carbon steel but I have not used the coarse one since I purchased my bench grinder 10+ years ago and I changed almost straight away. One thing you will need at some point is a grinding wheel dresser to keep the wheels in good condition. Some thing else you will need is a pot of water but that one is easy and free, do not forget when grinding tools little and often is the rule I follow. e.g. a little grinding and a dunk to cool the tool, TCT not so critical. Bob BTW: Grind only steel as non ferrous metals tend to clog the wheels. |
GaryM | 16/05/2014 20:10:51 |
![]() 314 forum posts 44 photos | Hi Allan, I don't think you'll look back once you've started to grind your own tools. When I got my lathe I bought a set of the ubiquitous brazed tip carbide tools sold by our usual suppliers. I couldn't understand why I was getting such a poor finish even allowing for the fact that I was a beginner. Someone, probably on here, suggested grinding my own. I was a bit wary of the grindstone, viewing it a bit like an unexploded bomb in the workshop (someone else's phrase). Anyway, I had a go, and the first tool I ground gave a much better finish than the brazed tools. Since then I've made quite a few others. If you've got a stock of tool steel and a grinder you're never stuck for that special shape. Gary |
GaryM | 16/05/2014 20:16:18 |
![]() 314 forum posts 44 photos | Posted by Bob Brown 1 on 16/05/2014 19:28:01:
......... Some thing else you will need is a pot of water but that one is easy and free, do not forget when grinding tools little and often is the rule I follow. e.g. a little grinding and a dunk to cool the tool, TCT not so critical. Bob Hi Bob, I've done this since I started grinding my own tools but I'm sure I read recently that you shouldn't dip them in water as it causes small cracks in the tip. Can someone with more knowledge than me comment on this. Gary |
Bob Brown 1 | 16/05/2014 20:36:14 |
![]() 1022 forum posts 127 photos | Gary,
I think hair line cracks is more to do with the state of the grinding wheel and how hot you let the tool get rather than quenching the tool, needless to say it you let the colour run it's too hot. If you dress the wheel you will find that the wheel "cuts" a lot better than one that has not seen a dresser for a long time. Dressing the wheel is not just to square it up, it is also to remove the top layer to give a wheel has nice sharp grit that will cut rather than rub and just generate heat. Bob.
Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 16/05/2014 20:38:08 |
GarryC | 16/05/2014 20:43:32 |
![]() 740 forum posts 1043 photos | Hi Bri. Jason gave a good description a few posts back (this thread), I haven't tried it yet myself but I understand it to be a matter of pulling / pushing the tool out manually and measuring. When looking to buy one I found they were very pricey and (the ones I found) had a 'micrometer' type device included that fitted onto to the tool for these adjustments.. I see no problem with doing it 'manually' though, especially as it's cost nothing really to make and it may get me into starting with tool grinding.. Hi Bob Thanks, that is such a useful post! As I said I did some reading on this - but only about different types of grinding wheels... Hi Gary That does sound very positive and really interested to hear of your experiences with better finishes. I've tried to read up a bit about tool angles / shapes etc a few times now but have to admit its not 'going in' yet... I'll get there though.. Cheers. Allan. |
Gordon W | 16/05/2014 20:57:28 |
2011 forum posts | Just use one of the cheapo brazed -tip turning tools as a wheel dresser, it's about all they are good for. |
GaryM | 16/05/2014 21:10:21 |
![]() 314 forum posts 44 photos | Bob, I'll carry on dunking then. I had a go at dressing the coarse wheel a while back when I'd noticed it wasn't cutting as well as when new. I used a single point tool from Machine Mart like this **LINK** However, I think I've made a bit of a bugger of the wheel. It sounded easy, just pass the tool across the wheel but the practice was a bit different. I've been using the fine wheel while I come up with a plan for getting it right. Allan, This **LINK** might help. Gary |
Nick_G | 16/05/2014 21:30:21 |
![]() 1808 forum posts 744 photos | . A friend of mine (pro engineer) the other week advised me that I would be far better off with HSS for most of the things 'I' was likely to be doing on a lathe. So I heeded his advise and bought a few HSS tools. - He was right and I am adding to my collection. With this in mind when I was at Harrogate last week I noticed there were enough changeable tipped tools for sale to sink a battleship. But by comparison HSS tooling was quite thin on the ground. Can anyone please explain the reason for this.?
Cheers, Nick |
GaryM | 16/05/2014 21:35:30 |
![]() 314 forum posts 44 photos | I don't know the answer Nick, but it might be because model engineers grind their own HSS tools and maybe industry don't use them. Gary |
Bob Brown 1 | 16/05/2014 23:09:40 |
![]() 1022 forum posts 127 photos | Gary, I use a wheel dresser which I find easy to use and the little wheels easy and cheap to replace. Nick, I think it depends a bit on what you are machining, most common materials are fine with HSS tools but when you get to hard materials and even some high grade and stainless steels, TCT are far better. I find the TC inserts are cheap enough and it only takes a short time to change the tip or turn it to a new edge then again there are the brazed ones which can be sharpened.
|
GarryC | 17/05/2014 09:23:14 |
![]() 740 forum posts 1043 photos | I was hoping someone may take a quick look at these (rather poor again I'm afraid) photo's please - apologies my iPhone having trouble focussing in on the small size.. Am I very far off from this being suitable for the between ctrs boring of my gunmetal bearings? I would guess this taken less than 60 secs to do so not expecting it to be correct. If anyone can give me any pointers I would be very grateful. Tool steel diameter is 1/8". Many thanks. First attempt at tool grinding for the between Centres Boring Bar 1. First attempt at tool grinding for the between Centres Boring Bar 2. First attempt at tool grinding for the between Centres Boring Bar 3. Regards. Allan.
Edited By Allan. on 17/05/2014 09:35:21 |
JasonB | 17/05/2014 09:56:29 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | As you based it on my photos its a good copy. My only comment would be as you are boring a far smaller hole you may need more clearance below the cutting edge and making it curved may be easier than straight. I'll sketch it out in a while.
J |
GarryC | 17/05/2014 10:04:28 |
![]() 740 forum posts 1043 photos | Great thanks Jason that would be great - but whenever to suit yourself of course. Doesn't need to be today... Cheers. Allan. |
Bob Brown 1 | 17/05/2014 10:18:13 |
![]() 1022 forum posts 127 photos | I tend to curve what would be the front relief such that the radius is smaller than the hole I am machining be it a boring head or a boring bar. If I am seeing it correctly you may have been a little keen as there seems to be some colour on the tool which is best avoided, slowly catchy monkey. Here's a link that shows angles **LINK** for different materials which may prove useful.
|
GarryC | 17/05/2014 11:15:50 |
![]() 740 forum posts 1043 photos | Thanks Bob, yes both your link and Gary's yesterday are helpful. Maybe Gary's a bit more so at the moment as its nicely coloured to show the different angles. It was quite enjoyable using the grinder earlier, albeit for just a few seconds, I'll definitely be giving some HSS lathe tools a go now..... Will remember what you said and watch the heat.... Thanks again, and Gary as well for yesterday.. Cheers. Allan.
|
Alan .204 | 17/05/2014 13:46:06 |
304 forum posts 14 photos | Allan have a look on YouTube type in oxtools he has some good vids on sharpening HSS tooling very helpful and will give you the idea for what your looking to do, one other thing the tool steel you buy is like everything else in life if it cheep it's cheep for a reason, I bought some HSS tool steel from the usual suppliers and found it not to be very good so looked on the web for some quality HSS tooling, the difference was unbelievable you soon notice when you go to the grinder its so hard compared to the cheep stuff, gives a better finish and lasts for ages between sharpening.
Al. |
This thread is closed.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.