Muncaster's Simple Entablature Engine

cheers Jason You learn sumat new every day eh!

regards

Paul

Hi Jason,

Attached photos of my build so far. By the way I used your method to make the cross head guides, Thanks.

It may be of interest to others how I made a poor mans "soft jaws." for machining the cylinder cover. I bored out 3 large nuts to fit over the chuck jaws and added grub screws to hold them on the jaws. In this case I tightened up jaws on the nuts and then bored out a recess slightly smaller than the OD of the cover.

Regards,

John

ps sorry I could not work out how to insert photos

John, this should explain about adding photos

Here are the photos!

Edited By JasonB on 01/11/2019 06:55:32

That's neat - even though I've got soft jaws I sometimes come across diameters I want to hold that don't fit my existing machining, and I know I'm unlikely to come across a similar diameter requirement anytime soon, and don't want to machine away what I've already got. This provides a workable solution for the 'one time' oddball job. Thanks.

Edited By Mick B1 on 01/11/2019 10:55:31

Don't all rush but Lee has the Muncaster flywheel castings back in stock here get them while there hot!

Edited By JasonB on 10/11/2019 20:25:58

Thanks Jason. Very good news... but he doesn't post to Australia! so how is one to buy? I wanted to buy 2 or more if others in Australia would like them

Regards,

John

I ordered a flywheel casting from Lee on eBay on Sunday and it arrived today. Looks good.

Is there a material list anywhere, or do I need to work through all the components to work out what is needed ?

I plan to start this and don't want to have to keep making trips to the metal monger.

Good to hear another one is going to be built, give me a couple of hours and I'll post a list.

I think I have said before that I am not a fan of lists of materials as I feel sitting down and going through the drawings is a good way to get to know the parts and think about how you will machine them with what tools are available. However I can see the appeal to those who don't have much material in stock and want to get all that is required in one go to keep postage costs to a minimum.

I have done a bill of materials in both Word and PDF format that can be downloaded. The sizes given are the minimum that the part will come out of, the individual builder will need to make allowances for Cutting, parting sawing and how much they need to hold the part. I have also indicated where it will be easier to buy small amounts of imperial stock as not all ME suppliers keep metric sizes and there is little point in buying 3m lengths when you may only need 10mm.

Any Queries please ask.

Excellent - Thanks Jason

Regarding bending exhaust pipe.

I selected a piece of pipe longer than needed, crimped one end and then filled the pipe with solder.I then bent the pipe with my home made pipe bender, threaded one end ( reversing the die to finish up close to the bend ), cut off to length, deburr and finally heat up and pour out the solder.

Worked well for me!

I found these on a US site

**LINK**

Anyone else want one ? I have a friend coming over second week of December and I could slip a few in his luggage

Thought I'd share my build.

Squaring the stock

Cutting out the excess using a scroll saw - saw this on clickspring (youtube) and it works really well.

Centering the rotary table with my new toy -works great

Struggled with clamping this on my small roatary table. I used a woodworking router bit for the roundover and it worked well

Working my way round the edges

PCD was easy with the DRO

Looks good!

I built a live centre for my boring head. 2 quid bearing from ebay, then made an insert to hold the centres from my tailstock live centre. Used a dti to give me 1mm of offset at the tail end.

The bottom photo shows the job supported at the tailstock by your live centre (I assume in the offset position) but the headstock end in a collet instead of a centre. Did the work piece just flex as it was rotated ?

Paul.

Paul,

yes just flexed - as per the advice in the magazine articles.

Phil

Hi Phil

Wow, you've made a really good start there.

The base looks great, I reckon J would be proud of that and you used a wood router!!!

I have a set of wood routers but I never imagined they would cut alloy.

Still smile when I see that flexed offset turning method. I used the method as well just as J described.

Clever stuff and one of a few machining gems he has used on this model. Well they are to me!!!!

Geoff

Off to a very good start Phillip.

Paul on this job with a 4mm spigot at both ends the job flexes quite easily so the setup with chuck or collet is a lot easier than between ctrs and driving with a dog. It can also be used where there is no spigot on the work if ample is left to hold, this will cause bending within the "tapered" part of the column and actually result in a slightly convex cut which replicated the classic column shape which is also not a straight taper. A good method for conrods on steam engines where the od tapers and has a similar result to blending tapers to get the "fish belly" look.

Jason

I have just started the base today. Are the columns fixed to the base with nuts under the base? I can see that the holes for fixing the cylinder to the base are countersunk but the holes for the columns aren't.

Thanks

Stuart