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D bit grinder work head calculations

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Steve Garnett06/05/2011 12:37:40
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Posted by Lawrie Alush-Jaggs on 06/05/2011 11:49:39:
 
Everyone accepts, indeed knows and goes on at great length about the need for clearance angles on rotating and static metal cutting tools but seem quite happy to beleive that there is no need for them on D bits.
 
Oh, that's funny - I thought that we'd been saying that you need one all along! Or didn't we make it clear enough that a 0 degree cutting angle wasn't a cutting angle but a rubbing one?
 
And I must admit that I didn't think that parallel-sided D bits and engraving cutters cut in the same way at all... or do they?
David Clark 106/05/2011 17:01:30
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Hi There
What started this thread off was an engraving cutter, not a D bit.
An engraving cutter is backed off on an angle and relieved in its diameter so it cuts.
 
A D bit I think usually has half the diameter ground away. I have used D bits to plunge holes, usually to put something like a 15 degree chamfer round the hole.
 
I turned a bit of silver steel to a 30 degree included angle, polished it and milled almost half of the diameter way at the cutting edge.
It was hardened and possibly tempered. Then the cutting edge was either ground or diamond lapped to about a thou smaller than half the diameter.
Then we plunged the hole at a slow speed to produce the chamfer.
 
I think perhaps some members are getting confused with a toolmakers D bit or ream which is cut away diagonally. I think these usually have a chamfer on the lead which probably acts as a cutting edge.
regards
David
 
 

Edited By David Clark 1 on 06/05/2011 17:03:11

mgj06/05/2011 19:12:01
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Hang on - a d bit surely has relief. It doesn't cut on the side, so that doesn't need to be relieved. The relief is applied to the front face. The 1/2 of the dia that is cut away is to provide a place for the swarf, and to put the cutting point in the right place?
 
Of engraving tools I know exactly nothing, but on a taper reamer - I don't see the need for the relief as drawn on the diagrams? They cut (in bronze which is my experience of them) at zero or 90deg, without that relief on the back.
 
That kind of relief is what one sees on the back of a gear cutting tool -or similar. There was a gadget called a Eureka IIRC? which put that kind of continuous relief on gear cutters. That used a cam I think??? Anyway its a Chaddock/Law thing and details of it are in Ivan Laws Gear Cutting book.
 
Less elegantly (and that may be part of the attraction) if I wanted that kind of relief on the back of a tool, initially I think I'd cut it with a milling cutter, and then do the rest on the Quorn. However Prof Chaddocks Quorn book does also show a way of applying relief by dropping the tool to be ground with respect to the wheel, and then rotating the tool using the spiralling head. That actually is rotating the tool around another centre - ie using a "non-material" eccentric So that may offer another way forward, and save a bit of work, particularly as there is a chart in there which gives amount of relief in terms of thous of offset, with respect to grinding wheel diameter?

Edited By mgj on 06/05/2011 19:14:36

Ramon Wilson06/05/2011 20:31:50
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Lawrie, I understand your approach to achieve a means to relieve home produced 'cutters'. Like some others however I personally do not see these as D Bits but that is purely academic.
 
Quite recently and somewhat coincidentally I was shown a piece of (professional) kit that does exactly what you are trying to achieve. This was in a local workshop and was used extensively for producing small engraving cutters. It produces the relief exactly as you describe.
 
It was the first time I have seen such an item and I was impressed at its ability to produce the relief needed for a rotating cutter. I can find out more about if you wish.
 
What I do perceive as a 'D bit', and over the years I have made the odd one or two is just as previously described ie half diameter form and, where parallel, relieved at the front, with slight back rake. Others of varying form are not relieved and have all performed well in producing the types of hole you wish to achieve ie convex or tapered.
 
This pic is of the 'D bits' made so far for the Bentley BR2. The top one, a reverse counterbore produced 36 tapers in which the headbolts locate. (Material was EN1a) The tapers on the head bolts were turned at the same topslide angular setting as the cutter to ensure a matching fit. It is as sharp as when first produced which was by conventional means - milling and stoning. They are all cut on the centre line and do not have any kind of relief.
 
 
Now I agree that this is forming the hole - scraping if you like - but that's what other than a parallel D bit does and for me it does it well with consistent form and surface finish so this is really to say are you possibly persuing a path that may not need to be tread for the two items you mention.
 
Of course if your intent is to produce a cutter relieving device per se then I wish you well in your endeavour.
 
If I can be of further help with that local machine please say.
 
Regards - Ramon

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 06/05/2011 20:34:10

Edited By Ramon Wilson on 06/05/2011 20:52:43

Clive Hartland07/05/2011 10:06:33
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During my work as an engraver which was part of my job description, the engraving cutters were placed in a holder that was then placed on the angled tool holder that went against the wheel.
The holder had a set quadrant that allowed the cutter to be rotated against the wheel.
This gave the cutting edge and the relief required by engaging the wheel and moving it forward into the wheel.
By rotating the holder the rest of the metal behind the relief angle was ground away.
Then the angled tool holder was rotated to a greater than 90 deg position and the tip was moved forward into the wheel to give the tip clearance.
This then gave you a cutter that cut cleanly and depending on the width of the tip grind a thin or wide engraving.
This was all preset on the grinding jig and it also had a holder for two or four lip endmills up to about 6mm. The settings gave the correct clearance once it was in the tool holder.
There was a set of single quadrant and two quadrant and four quadrant discs that were clamped to the end of the tool holder to facilitate the type of cutter being ground.
 
Once the cutter clearance has been ground, further rotation just took off the un-needed metal behind the lip.
No offset was required for this at all.
 
Clive
Lawrie Alush-Jaggs07/05/2011 10:26:49
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Hello Evry Bardy

I think that what we have established thus far is that everyone’s definition of what constitutes a D bit is based on their experience.
David Clarke has kindly offered his technical opinion which as he states is based on his experience.
Hansrudolf’s experience is that of a D bit which cuts at the front as he mentions both a Cannon Drill and his twisted D bit.
Ramon has added a photo of the tools he has made for his excellent Bentley engine and brings up his recent experience of seeing engraving cutters made.
Terry similarly to Hansrudolf says that an engraving cutter is not a D bit.
I think the reason we are having so much difficulty with this is down to taxonomy. I will give three examples of why this is a taxonomic problem.

1 Consider an end mill. We have absolutely no problem with the discussion of what constitutes an end mill. Basically it is a cutter derived from the twist drill in which the face can have a profile (flat, ball) which cuts material. In that, its end cutting capacity is similar to the twist drill. The second similarity is in having a helix. Unlike a twist drill though, the edges of the helix are ground to permit machining.

2 Drills. The twist drill and the spoon drill. Both cut at the face. The twist drill really cuts where the spoon drill is not really much more than a rotary waste of time.

3 The Slocum Centre Drill. There were up to the introduction of this tool more than ten styles of device all designed to perform the same operation, none of them anywhere nearly as effectively. The Slocum Centre Drill, which is a derivative of the twist drill won out.

In each of these cases we have no dispute as to what name means which tool. The reason I say that this is a taxonomic problem is because the D bit is the only one which is named specifically for its form rather than its function.
None of the functions to which the tools everyone here has described with the exception of the engraving cutter, is encompassed in the name of the tool. Excluding the engraving cutter might seem to nullify my argument except for the fact that there are several forms of engraving cutter of which the D bit is one.
The term End Mill describes the function and not the form. As in the case of Drills, the verb is the same as the noun. The name, drill describes what it does, the function of drilling. We then add an adjective to that to describe the form, Twist, Spoon, Centre etc.
In the case of the Centre Drill, we have dropped the name of the Inventor, Slocum and just gone with the function. Unlike the Twist Drill, the adjective Centre does not describe the form, instead it describes the purpose.
The D bit is named for its form and nowhere does it describe any sort of function. Its name is a noun and unlike a drill or mill does not correspond to a verb. It simply names something for its shape, a piece of stuff which when ground and viewed end on is in the shape of the letter D. Nothing more, nothing less.
The use to which one puts them does not alter the basic fact of the name. If you use one to drill deep holes then one may choose – rather cumbersomely but accurately– to name it a deep hole D bit drill.
The fact that someone chooses instead to cut at the edge rather than the end and use it for engraving or for reaming does not change that. The definition of a D bit is that when ground and viewed end on it has the shape of the letter D.
I was incorrect in an earlier posting in saying that a Gun Drill is a form of D bit. Early Gun Drills like the Cannon Drill referred to by Hansrudolf certainly were D bits but the devices supplied as Gun Drills today, and after looking at my 1940 edition of Colvin and Stanley’s American Machinist’s Handbook are not.
Now can we please get back to my question which was one of geometry, not taxonomy?
MGJ: thanks for your reply. Again, the question is not about the geometry of the cutter per se, but making sure that when I move the cutter by a cam action to one side by .Nmm, the scale I have inscribed corresponds to an angle relative to the ground face of said cutter.
You have given me one clue and that is the have a look in The Other Book – Prof Chaddock’s, not GHT.
I don’t really have the inclination to build a Quorn though.
Ramon: thank you for your as always gentlemanly and courteous reply. Thank you also for the offer to find out more about the machinery you viewed. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I am familiar with them.
Andrew: I think that Donald in mentioning Mr Thomas is referring to Terry as in Terry Thomas.
Steve: In response to your first reply. In using a D bit grinder to grind the clearance angle on the cutting edge, you rotate the barrel I described which is in effect a cam. This gives you an offset in one plane moving the cutter past its centre line. You then rotate the cutter through ninety degrees, lock the collet again and then proceed with the grinding. This give you the second axis.
Chris and Steve: I agree. I am approaching dodderhood, well, a way off yet but I can see the sun moving closer to the hills. In spite of my earlier comments about old men making putt putts that go toot toot, the part about staying senility was genuine. More than that I really enjoy all of this stuff and it is only conscience that occasionally rears its head to suggest that I make something of value to others around the house.
Donald: Thank you for your post. I hope that you can elicit something useful from your engineers at work.
Norman: I’m pleased that you are not offended. Thanks. As to the

Lawrie Alush-Jaggs07/05/2011 10:32:08
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Sorry, ran out of space.
 

Norman: I’m pleased that you are not offended. Thanks. As to the type of grinder……… When I get it made, I shall ask you to name it.

So. Can anyone help me with a geometry question?

The attached picture is something like what my some described to me. He was very excited that he had come up with a solution as was I. However we haven’t had time to discuss it further so I don’t quite understand how it works other than that it looks as though you make tangential measurements in the X axis relative to the centre of the cam and that as the cam rotates, the centre changes in the Y axis and that if you stick your thumb in the pie, you call out “What a good boy am I” Or Bingo or something.

Any takers?

Lawrie Alush-Jaggs07/05/2011 10:48:47
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Hi Clive
 
Thank you for your reply.
 
"The holder had a set quadrant that allowed the cutter to be rotated against the wheel.
This gave the cutting edge and the relief required by engaging the wheel and moving it forward into the wheel.
By rotating the holder the rest of the metal behind the relief angle was ground away.
Then the angled tool holder was rotated to a greater than 90 deg position and the tip was moved forward into the wheel to give the tip clearance."
 
It is a cam action that provides this. A standard D bit drinder of the type you describe is designed to grind D bits in that it does not provide for greater clearance angles than those which are commonly encountered in engraving. I want to be able to set a wider range of angles so that I can also grind other types of cutters easily like router bits.
This is the reason for the original question.
 
Lawrie
Lawrie Alush-Jaggs07/05/2011 10:48:48
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Hi Clive
 
Thank you for your reply.
 
"The holder had a set quadrant that allowed the cutter to be rotated against the wheel.
This gave the cutting edge and the relief required by engaging the wheel and moving it forward into the wheel.
By rotating the holder the rest of the metal behind the relief angle was ground away.
Then the angled tool holder was rotated to a greater than 90 deg position and the tip was moved forward into the wheel to give the tip clearance."
 
It is a cam action that provides this. A standard D bit drinder of the type you describe is designed to grind D bits in that it does not provide for greater clearance angles than those which are commonly encountered in engraving. I want to be able to set a wider range of angles so that I can also grind other types of cutters easily like router bits.
This is the reason for the original question.
 
Lawrie
mgj07/05/2011 14:13:31
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Lawrie - sorry I thought you had a Quorn.
 
To be honest, I reckon your best bet is simply to draw it out with a decent pair of dividers and a protractor at x2 or so. Once you have done that and got sizes into the right parish, I'd put it through Excel and you will get your numbers very easily.
 
Head on you have a fixed radial relationship - its just a matter of getting the cam in the right place. Once you know where your pivot point is you can derive the change in radius at hte points you want to use - work in radians and not degrees and its the back of a fag packet calculation?
Lawrie Alush-Jaggs07/05/2011 14:24:17
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Hi MGJ
 
Thanks for heading back onto the topic. I have to agree with you and had thought that comething like that may have to be the way to do it.
As a Mathmatical numbnuts, what is the difference between radians and degrees and why is it easier to use them?
 
Thanks, Lawrie
Clive Hartland07/05/2011 15:16:34
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Lawrie, I found that I could get much more cutter relief by just increasing the depth of the engagement with the wheel. The cutting edge clearance was then more pronounced. Basuically I would grind the cutter to the materiel and sometimes it was two or three tries to get a good cutting edge on the specific materiel.
One of the reasons was that when cutting alu. sheet and making templates the alu. would build up on the cutter edge.
Remember that the rpm of the cutter when engraving is in the +20000 range.
Also on some soft materiels I would use a quarter shank cutter because of the extra clearance. No chance of the trailing edge getting fouled up with the chips coming off and if it was plastic it would be very soft and sometimes melt.
The engraving cutter only had a cutting edge at the cone point and if I was cutting out a shape and using a parallell cutter I would then sharpen the whole length of the cutter.
The machine was an Alexander No2 and the Cutter Grinder was a Deckel.
The Talor Hobson cutter grinder was much the same and gave similar results.
 
Clive
Andrew Johnston07/05/2011 15:38:57
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Hi Lawrie,
 
The glib answer is that the difference between radians and degrees is a bit over 57.
 
The degree is an arbitrary unit, and a circle contains 360 of them. Each degree is divided into 60 minutes, and each minute is divided into 60 seconds.
 
The radian is an SI derived measure of angle. It is defined as the angle a segment of a circle of radius r subtends when the arc length is also r. A full circle contains 2pi of them. The transcendental functions (sin, cos, tan etc) are naturally expressed in radians and such things as angular velocity are normally expressed in radians per second.
 
To convert from radians to degrees: multiply by 360/2pi
 
To convert from degrees to radians: multiply by 2pi/360
 
Hope that helps.
 
Regards,
 
Andrew
 
PS: So that means that 1 radian is 360/2pi degrees, which is about 57.3

Edited By Andrew Johnston on 07/05/2011 15:41:05

Nobby07/05/2011 19:29:00
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Hi
This may not help ,but on the chart for the Alexsanders(Decal copy) d bit grinder its says on a 1/4 d bit the fflat should be ten thou plus not on the C/L
Nobby
Clive Hartland07/05/2011 19:44:03
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Thats interesting, the cutting edge would then be ground with the lip forward of the centerline ensuring a clearance.
When mounted in the cutter holder to grind the cutter and the quadrant fitted to the holder and located against the stop peg, the lip is presented to the grinding wheel not at right angles to the flat on the cutter, the flat iis sloped back from the face of the wheel and this gives more relief to the cutting lip.
 
Clive
mgj07/05/2011 21:17:48
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Lawrie- a radian isn't just a 2pith of a circle in that sense. Andrew is absolutely right in saying there are 2pi radians in a circle and therfore a rad = whatever it is degrees. I never know and it doesn't matter. Divide 360 by 2pi)
 
The point is that if you know the distance at the circumference that you are rotating through then
 
distance at circumference/radius = angular rotation in radians. Convert for scale in degrees.
 
Multiply or divide by 2pi and you are moving from rads to deg and vice versa with ease, and its so easy to get the angle in rads because you can relate it directly to distance.
 
(but see note below)
 
So if you need so much relief in mm or decimals thereof, and you know diameter, you barely need to take your socks off to calculate an answer in degrees, because you are not using an arbitrary unit of angular measure any longer, but the relationship of circumference to radius.
 
Its not a thing used much in non engineerlng applications, but its the standard unit for using in calculations involving rotation, angular momentum etc, so a lot of people won't have met it, but its very easy, and 5 mins with a calculator for practise and you can get distances and angles with ease.
 
Then you can mount your eccentric non eccentrically in the dividing head and mark away in degrees. Obviously the amount of relief applied will vary with diameter for a given angular measure so you'll need a little chart to relate degrees to amount of relief per unit diameter. But with 2pi at your side thats a 2 second calculation.
 
Thankyou Pythagoras - did he discover pi or first calculate it or somesuch? Think so, but could well be wrong.
 
(there is an error in my statement above because I am actually using a chord and not an arc,  but for small proportions of the circumference it wont matter.)
 

 

Edited By mgj on 07/05/2011 21:32:11

Lawrie Alush-Jaggs08/05/2011 12:54:48
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Hi Everyone

Thank you all for your replies.

Clive: Thanks. The workshop in which I did engraving had six Deckel 2D's a Deckel 2 1/2 D, two Alexanders and a Dahlgren computer driven machine. We didn't much use the Alexander as although it was a copy of the Deckel it was just not as good. The bearings were not as smooth and the lapping on the spindle was not quite as accurate. That may have been down to age or just that we all seemed to prefer the Deckels. We had two Deckel grinders. I understand what you are saying about different materials but in this case my problem is not about the end to which the cutters will be put, rather an aspect of the machine used to produce them.

MGJ: Thanks for your lucid answers. As you say, some time spent with a calculator should get things right.
I have a further question for you though if you don't mind.

"Obviously the amount of relief applied will vary with diameter for a given angular measure so you''ll need a little chart to relate degrees to amount of relief per unit diameter."

I don't understand why the angle should change with the diameter of the cutter. The selection of angle does not take place with the cutter at 90 deg to the wheel or as shown in the illustrations. Instead the collet is loosened, the cutter rotated through 180 degrees, tighten the collet and then select the angle. So as far as the ground face of the cutter is concerned, the eccentric is moved relative to the verticle rather than the horizontal. Once the setting is done, the collet is rotated back through ninety degrees and you start grinding your clearance angle. I may have the sequence slight out of step, it is twenty five years since I used a D bit grinder but the principle is correct.

I've sent a crate of whisky to Pythagoras.

Nobby: Thanks for your response Nobby. I understand what you are saying but as in my reply to Clive, I am not so much interested in a cutter/bit at present as the relationship between the position of the cutter in the grinder and the alignment marks used to determine just how much clearance there is on the cutter.

Lawrie

Gordon W08/05/2011 15:58:37
2011 forum posts
My brain hurts, and I am supposed to be quite good at maths. Surely a D bit is so called because the cross -section is a D shape? If a clearance angle is ground on then it will not be D shaped, so not a D bit? Just for further confusion I always thought of a D bit as being made from round bar, with a long flat ground on from the tip at an angle, so only one section will be a D. Make good reamers tho.
Tony Jeffree08/05/2011 18:35:31
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Posted by Steve Garnett on 05/05/2011 17:55:38:
I've got the ultimate grinder for you, Norman - it's a Steworndent!
I would have thought a Squorn would be more appropriate
 
Regards,
Tony
mgj08/05/2011 18:39:15
1017 forum posts
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Alex its not the angle which changes with dia - you are going to set an angle, but the amount in thou taken off - the curved wedge will increase with dia, for a given angle - look at your drawing head on. My brain is fading, but that may be from the Chaddock/Quorn approach, which I am more familiar with, and I was assuming similar geometry.
 
Only one way to find out - draw it up and check. Sorry, but you'll do the rithmetic easy enough, so I bow out! Wishing you luck with the compasses!.

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