Recommendation for Tool and Cutter Grinder

Standard engineering practice on all holes is to deburr & threaded holes should always be countersunk.

Tony

I was just thinking that the tool could be made from an old slitting saw as it is really nothing more than a thin grooving tool, either leave the tooth as is or stone off the right hand corner to the desired angle. You can get 0.015" slitting saws which would be almost bang on width and plenty of support below the cutting edge and more likely to flex sideways than just snap.

David,

That's an interesting looking gadget.

I googled "engraving tool grinder" and got lots of dremel type tools and a few T&C grinders between $500 and $2000

If you bought it brand new for 26 pounds that seems like a great deal or was it a lucky 2nd hand buy ?

Could you please give a link to what you bought or some alternate keywords ?

Bill

Edited By BW on 10/09/2019 08:44:13

.

+1

MichaelG.

+1 for me too

Hi all the grinder is a Newing-Hall pantograph engraver grinder and it had a wrecked diamond wheel (great chunk out of it). It was on EBay for £9.00 and I won it for £26.00 and could collect and pay cash. Bought a new wheel and made a proper rest and bobs your Aunty.

David

Thanks for the clarification, David

... That explains the 'seemingly impossible'

MichaelG.

Wire edm is the better process to make small tools from hss or carbide. Yes you can grind such a tool on your tool and cutter grinder. But asking how long it will take, is very difficult to answer. The grade of hss steel, the type of wheels you are intending to use, the type of cooling you are using etc etc. From 40 mins to several hours will be a ball park time figure. The other issue is the precision required of the tool dimensions as well.

Neil

Neil I agree wire edm is a better process for making small tools, an optical profile grinder would also be a better process but how many model engineers have access to such equipment, I suppose we all do via a local engineering company, but at what cost, assuming they can be bothered with some old codger and his fag packet sketches. I feel that the average model engineer is better to stick with equipment such as the worden, quorn, Clarkson and the various designs of grinding rests. A relative newcomer is the acute sharpener from eccentric engineering, this system allows the tool it to be advanced into the wheel against stops, something grinders like the Clarkson lack.

Further to my suggestion of a carbide Mini-thin grooving insert I see that you can also get a 0.015" HSS insert which is rather close to 0.35mm, just stone the corner off that.

Read a thread on here recently about someone turning their lathe into a grinding machine not really recommended due to all the dust contamination but if cleaned down properly I can't see any issue sorry don't have a link

A parting tool only 0.35mm (0.00138" for fellow Luddites ) wide is going to be very fragile. Even a hacksaw blade is likely to be thicker, and probably less likely to fracture.

Is it impossible to countersink, or counterbore the hole? That would be easier and less prone to dramatic events likely to scrap the workpiece. You would miss out on all the practice of tool grinding though!

Howard

I'm a Luddite as well but i believe 0.35 mm is about 14 thou or 0.0138".

Sorry to be a pedant.

Dave

Quite right David. This new Wi Fi keyboard seems to like duplicating characters when I'm not looking!

But we couldn't have such interesting and informative discussions with goose quill and ink!

Howard