Falcor

Jason Thanks for that however the bosses I refered to for the water gauge are square and as far as I can see College don't do square pb102 and I don't have the facilities to machine square bar from round or hex

Pete

Ah, missed that

M-Machine do some square bronze sections by the inch, Assuming you have a lathe then they can be machined down to the required overall size in your 4-jaw. But you could also do that from larger dia round stock in the 4-jaw if you don't have milling facilities

Do you have a file? It's worth making a filing rest for mounting on the lathe, if you only have a small number of items to file square or hex, it's often quicker to file them up than to set up the milling machine if you had one.

Ian S C

Put a section of bar crosswise in the 3-jaw chuck so its held by two jaws on one side and two on the other.

Use a spacer to make use it is parallel to the front of the chuck body, but slide the spacer out before machining.

Face the front of the bar flat.

Rotate the bar 90 degrees so the flat face is against the pair of jaws, set parallel and turn another flat.

Repeat twice more and you have a square bar.

Not the most accurate method, but works when you want some 'cosmetically' square bar in an emergency.

Neil

TO PETER RUSSELL 4 ... sorry for the delay in replying ... we have just had a week boiling ourselves in the lake district ... not usual weather for summer ... far too hot to climb Helvellyn ... most times we get rain ... fig 8 in part 2 of Falcor quotes 16 swg for the boiler, this includes the 2 end plates, just as JASON B says ... I use hard wood for the 2 formers needed ... add 2 lots of plate thickness together, in this case .064+.064 = 0. 128 (check your sheet metal) ... subtract this from the ID of the boiler tube ... this gives you the diameter of the formers ... if you try for a flange length of about 7/32 then add twice this to the size needed for the copper sheet ... anneal it and keep on annealing it as the flange is slowly formed ... to not harden the copper means that it will need to be re-annealed 4 or 5 times ... when you have made the two hard wood formers the copper sheet can be sandwiched centrally between them and clamped in the vise ... remember to make a small bevel on the corner of one piece of wood ... bend the copper round this.

When finished the flange should have a reasonable length all the way round ... if it is a bit off-centre then one part of the flange will probably have a kink or a fold in it ... this part can be trimmed down in length ... this should allow it to flatten ... all my flanged plates are now filed instead of machined ... quite deliberate as it allows the silver solder (sf 55) to flow through the joint and make a decent fillet on the inside edge.

I have always used PH. bronze with no problems ... again JASON B has answered this question ... thank you Jason ... most of the square material I use has been filed down by hand from hex. or round stock ... a file and a hacksaw is generally my version of a milling machine ... I just keep an eye on the corners by using a small square ... hope this is useful.

martin

The corrections Martin has made regarding the tab on the top of the frames. 25/05/2018 part 4 three errors

The magazine drawing ive got looks ok so what Martin is saying does not make sense ( sorry Martin its more than likely my brain!!!!)

Any advise appreciated

Regards

Pete

Malcom part five just recieved today - have the gremlins struck again?

Suspension bracket fig 32/33 there is no mention of the width of the brass strip forming the bracket.

Regards

Pete R

TO PETER RUSSELL 4 ... the brass tab on top of the frames is 0.50 wide and 0.25 high ... the height is correctly shown as 0.25 but the width has been omitted from the very top of the drawing ... maybe I have made it worse ? I think I will have to study ALL the measurements shown to check it is all in its right place ... as yet I am not sure it is your brain or mine that is having a senior moment ! will let you know, but it could be me ! ... as regards the suspension bracket the thickness is 1/16 or 0. 0625 and width is 0.75 ... it is ( or should be ) shown in figure 34 which is a side view ... I am assuming this part of the drawing is not yet published ... I have not yet seen the newest copy of ME, it should arrive in a couple of days ... It is just unfortunate how the magazine has been published ... you need all 3 drawings for it to make sense ... one question ... you typed Malcom part five ... should it be Falcor ?

martin

Martin, the correct 1/2" width for the tab is given, just to it's left, maybe just moved down to save column inches?

Fig 34 is published but just shows the front suspension bogie bush and net from 5/16 hex. Fig 33 gives the thickness but not the width of the bracket (upto fig 39 published in 4589)

PM Sent

Edited By JasonB on 19/06/2018 10:28:20

TO PETER RUSSELL 4 ... I asked GOD to check the frames drawing ( fig 26 ) with me ... SHE said it looks OK ... she did say maybe it should have been marked REAR at the left and FRONT at the right to save any confusion ... as regards fig 34 showing the suspension bracket, side view, it would appear from what JASON B has typed above that the numbers of the figures have changed slightly ... I will know how it appears in a few days when I get my copy of the magazine ... perhaps it is best if I do not comment on something I have not yet read yet ... I used to get the magazine by subscription about 8 years ago, about the time when easy-flo 2 disappeared from the shops ... at that time the magazine arrived on Wednesday or Thursday ... I did not realise that there was such a difference in delivery times ... hope this is some use.

martin

TO PETER RUSSEL 4 ... I am now looking at my copy of M.E, part 5 of the loco series ... a good job I waited till I had the magazine to look at ... 7 of the figures have been re-numbered in the drawing office ... 2 of the figures which show the axles and wheels for the front bogie are missing ...with these I made the wheels loose on their axles ... presumably they will show up in part 6 in a months time ... on figure 33, page 13, the width of the suspension bracket is missing ... it should be 0.75 inches as we said the other day ... the drawing office people have put figures 32 and 33 next to each other ... an error has crept in ... one of the measurements marked as "outside edge of bend" started out as 1.40 and not 1.338 as drawn ... hope it is all sorted( for the moment )

martin

can i respectfully suggest that the articale in ME 4591 page 152 on is read and provides useful information to the novice boiler maker as to how to deal with it this would also apply to the tank used for the gas cylinder.

If your not feeling brave enough to make flanged end plates for the boiler and gas tank talk to GLR Kennions who can supply ready fllanged ends.

Regards

Pete

Hi

Part 6 is now issued however there are areas that in my opinion need clarification.

Where did the boigi wheels come from.

In fig 42 the right hand sketch showing at U channel form need some extra explanation as to what it is.

in fig 34 there is clearly a inner ring but no explanation

Is this a commercial smoke box door ? if so where from

Fig 43 does not add up either so re examination may help

Regards

Pete

To Peter Russell ... the bogie wheels come from a variety of suppliers ... IP ENGINEERING ... BRANDBRIGHT (now reopened ) ...SWIFT SIXTEEN ... ANYTHING NARROW GAUGE ( I think ) ... ROUNDHOUSE and several more who all advertise in GARDEN RAIL magazine ... figure 42 does contain an error ... the front ring for the smokebox is shown as having a flange ... it is not there on my original drawing ... another drawing office gremlin I am afraid.

Do you mean photo 34 has an inner ring ?? if so, fig 42 just above photo 34 shows the piece of metal involved ... it is just to the right of the smokebox front ... what it looks like is shown in photo 34 inside the smoke box at the right ... photo 35 shows the smokebox door, it can be as fancy as you like, or just a piece of 3mm brass cut to a circle with the edge trimmed down in thickness.

Fig 43 is immediately to the left of photo 36 ... the figure at the bottom marked 0.4 matches up with the photo at its left ... over to the right on the next page is figure 45 and photo 37 ... this is the exhaust pipe adaptor which fits into the smokebox front support ... figure 43 does show the 2 holes required for mounting the exhaust pipe adaptor ... one of these is given as 0.312 facing rear.

Hope this helps ... if not, let me know

martin

Martin picture 34 on the left hand end - the one that goes on the boiler tube looks like its counter bored or theres a piece of 2 in tube behind the smoke box front ring that makes it look like that.- hope this helps see what im trying to say.

In Fig 26 Main frames theres no dimensions for the radiused bottom left hand corner - the right hand one is also not dimensioned but there is sufficient surrounding dimensions to be able to work it out.

Back to fig 43 theres no dimensions for the brass sheet soft soldered underneath either for the plate size or holes.

Also there are no measurments for the position of the square upright and 3 holes are shown but only 2 on the saddle part below.

There are no measurments for the 7 ba clear holes or the positions of the 0.3 and 0.4 cut outs which don't look in the middle when viewing picture 36

Hope this expends on my comment fig 34 does not add up

How do you latch the smoke box door shut?

Regards

Pete

To Peter ... if you look at figure 42 there is a bored out flange formed at the rear inside of the smokebox ... this flange is 0.005 deep ...it is on the drawing ... its depth is 0.315, also shown on the drawing.

Figure 26, the frames ... no, the radius is not a precision size, usually I make it with the rear of a half-round file rather than leave it a square corner.

In figure 43 the brass sheet, you mention is used as a spacer to match up with the suspension bracket ... it is shown earlier as part of figure 32 and 33 ... I think I put the width in as 0.75 back on 22 June as a reply to your earlier question from the 19th. of June

The position of the square upright is to match the centre of the smokebox length ... I usually fasten mine temporarily with a dab of epoxy resin ... then spot mark the holes to match from the front support ... easiest way I can think of is to scribe round the square block and pick 2 hole positions to intersect the brass block 0.187 thick ...if I put an exact dimension for this it would be very easy for the whole assembly, and hence the chimney, to be off-centre ... the 3 holes you mention, one is a drain hole, this is on my original drawing but has not appeared in the magazine unfortunately ... a drawing office gremlin I am afraid.

the 2 notches you mention may be useful later in the build to clear some of the screws ... keep the idea in mind ... everything is easily removable, so if you need them then file to suit.

To latch the smoke box door the simplest way I can think of is to find a strip of mild steel about 1.5 x 0.031 and 0.25 wide ... bend one end up about 0.25 from one end ... the strip can be screwed to the inside of the door and bent to make it wedge on one side of the front ring ... if you use 2 x 10 BA bolts through the front plate these can be filed flat on the outside.

martin

Martin - Gremlins again?

Fig 26 Main Frames on the top edge there is a hole 5.1 from left hand side which i assume is 0.108 dia and 0.125 down from the top edge of the frame like the next one at 7.480

Regards

Pete

To Peter Russell please ... Hi Pete ... yes, you are correct ... 0.108 dia ... the magazine drawing is slightly different from mine ... someone in the drawing office has moved the arrows to the right and added a horizontal line to make it appear as if the 0.125 only applies to the hole at 7.480 from the left.

hope this helps ... martin

For two pages this thread has run with errors!

Surely there must be some form of proof reading prior to publication of the author's material!

How can the paying public be expected to build something from a magazine article over a series ?

What is the point in submitting an article if the information provided cant be printed accurately?

Rant over!

Edited By John Rudd on 04/08/2018 22:21:04

Edited By John Rudd on 04/08/2018 22:22:37

John

My thoughts exactly!

Martin is helping us enjoy our hobby and all the errors which are not his fault are leaving a bad taste.

It would be so nice to have a project that was right in all aspects and you could lock yourself in the shed and come out feeling satisfied instead of having to stop and ask a question or guess and hope its right.

I hear all that is said about the magazine production limitations in previous posts but this is basic drawing errors.

My Rant over