Member postings for Peter Russell 4

Hi - has anyone converted the Seig SC4-510 or SX3 to cnc using ball nut lead screws?

Im trying to find out if any one makes ballnut leadscrews and nuts for these two machines.

Ive found companys that will make them if given drawings, but im looking for ready made .

The DP is 40 and the ratio is 24/32.

Regards

Pete

Hi

Has anyone built Ladt Stephanie a six coloumn pumping beam engine.?

What did you do for the 2 bevel gears?

Hi

How do I get hold of a backissue of volume 143 for the building of Mary beam engine?

Jason

What I would like to find is a detailed description of dismantling the head to get to this gear.

Regards

Pete

Howard thanks for the advice - Ive tried both and given up and ordered a set of new circlip pliers .

The assumption that it is external is correct, but there is no reason why the holes should have been halved theres plenty of clearance.

The one Im trying to get off is holding the spindle assembly into the top bearing..

Removing it is the only way in to get to the gear and remove/replace it.

Why use a nylon gear at this point with the difficulty there is in replacing it is difficult to understand the motor gear is brass and the next gear is also nylon and far more accessible.

At least on the mini lathe the bottom of the headstock is open and access is reasonable.

Has any one had to replace the nylon speed change gear in a Warco VM12 milling machine.

Ive managed to strip the teeth off mine and need guidance as to how to get it appart. the big hurdle Ive got is the spindle assembly is held in by a large circip but the holes that the circlip pliers go into have been cut on half and its so far got the better of me

Pete

Hi

Im changing my Warco mini lathe now i can afford something better.

What is the general feeling about the Sieg SC4 -510

The main attraction for me is lead screw cover, auto travers on both feeds

plus it has a bigger chuck size

Hi

Im having a new metal shed anyone got ideas about wall insulation.

Im thinking something like 25 mm kingspan with a plywood or white melamine inner face on 25x50 studs stuck to shed walls with structural silicone

This is what Warco have advised from the symptoms I have given them - they have told me where to look - through a sight glass.

They say the gear is nylon.

Sorry Warco VM12

Hi

Apparantley I have stripped the teeth from the nylon low speed gear in my milling machine.

Has any one replaced one, how difficult is it?

Is there a stronger version available

Regards

Pete

Can any one help/advise.

Im trying to fit a whistle - bell type to a steam loco - on air its ok.

On steam its a wet dribble.

The pipe from the valve to the whistle is lagged, the steam supply is from the header manifold which is fed from a dome.

Are there any whistles that are tollerant of wet steam?

Regards

Pete

Now then lads play nicely!!

I have had a much larger response than I had ever expected with varying suggestions.

I have now removed the little plates and rubber swarf scrapers and the problem is more apparent.

Looking from the front the right hand end of the saddle is riding on the lower edge of the angular part but on the left end it is riding on the top and as the flat top is wider than the groove at the top of the slope it jams when adjusted as carefully as possible with the grub screws wound out.

The reason I have discovered for the worst part of the rocking and I hang my head in shame is because I fitted a DRO sensor and thought wrongly I had it clear of the bed now that has been removed its better but not good so its a new saddle from ARC for £19 ish as there is a bow in it where the clamp plate goes.

Once I have this I will update.

Many thanks to all who responded.

Ive had my Warco mini lathe for a few years and have never been able to part off ithout the carriage jumping, the tool jamming and either the parting tool breaking or the belt stripping.

I changed to metal gears quite quickly and brass gibs in the early days.

Ive now stripped the carriage assembly to fit DRO but on re assembly have I think discovered the problem Ive had from day one.

The saddle asembly when clamped down corectly is capable of being rotated a few degrees each way which there is as far a I can see no adjustment for ie no gibbs.

It gives the appearance that the bed V is too narrow or the grove in the saddle is too wide.

The unit is out of waranty and it is pointless considering further re assembly as it will not result in a viable machine.

Any one else had same problem and how did you resolve it.

My current idea is to scrap it and buy new. But not Warco

Pete

Were the protection plugs made with a small hole in them - then if they did get soldered in theres a guide hole to drill them out and run a tap through.

Other wise drill out and fit a new bush - put some tippex (typist correction fluid) on the thread that usually stops the solder creeping .

Pete

I have some bronze PB102 bar 1/2 in square that needs milling down to 7/16 square.

Its about 3 inches long

Ive previously tried with a 25 and 50 mm face cutter with indexable bits but it was a bit clunky.

What cutter would any one recomend and what approach ie diagonally across or start on one edge and work across the with or straight from one end to the other with a cutter wide enough to cover in one pass.

Does any one know if any one makes ready made banjo fittings in 3/16 and 1/4 40 me threads for 1/16, 1/8 and 5/32 pipe.

Pete

Hi can any one advise on which material to use for a super heater in a model locomotive.

I guess it should be stainless - but which one 304 316 etc

What wall thickness based on 3mm od

How to bend it.

Assuming it will be a single piece bent the joints will be in the smoke box so could they be high temp silver soldered.

Its going in a single flue tube gas fired boiler

Any other advice please

Yes I agree any bush soldered directly into the boiler should be bronze for the reasons you have given