Warco WM18 has arrived

I think I will use all aspects of the dro as I machine car parts

Edited By petro1head on 01/03/2017 11:36:17

I have a WM14, I fitted x and y dro which I bought from Warco, I didn't know there was a battery needed for the fitted z readout and it has worked for the years that I have had machine without any problems, oh and I do use the mill frequently, where is this battery fitted

Regards Mick

Mick, there is a little slide off plastic cover underneath the on/off button. I haven't needed to change the one on my WM14 since new even though I have forgotten to switch it off a few times.

John

Thanks John found it

Mick

Interesting that they have installed the scale on the back of the x axis

When I had to install scales on CNC conversions, I was lead to believe that "best practice" was to fit the scale as close as possible to the main guiding face of the slide i.e. the side opposite the gib strip. For manual milling machines, that would normally appear to be the side nearest the column - certainly my FB2 clone, RF30 mill drill & the XYZ KR2000 at work have that arrangement & the XYZ has it's Newall scale mounted at the rear of the table.

I will be interested to hear your opinion on the rigidity of this machine when you get it up & running.

Nigel B

I fitted x axis scale to back of table, yes some travel is lost but to date hasn'been a problem, the rigidity of my wm14 is very good all in all it is a good bench top machine, would be nice to have a bigger machine but my adcock and shipley horizontal with end mill placed in way of horizontal arbour does it for me being a pretty robust mill its only like using wm14 on its back, (and no I don't)

Mick

So this morning, while waiting for a couple of pals to pop round to help with moving the mill into the man cave, I decided to give its a good clean and remove any overspray on parts that should not have any paint on. I did a dummy run of fitting the X axis power feed. I refitted the gas ram to the column. I then managed to smash the handle off the wheel so spent half an hour making a new bolt.

After luch my pals came round and we moved the pieces into the workshop. Reasembled the colum and ram onto the main bed of the mill. Between us we were able to lift that assembly onto the stand. Then the table and then the head. They left and I started fittling the ancillary bits back onto it.

Its a pity the colour match to the lathe is crap.

The next task was the X axis power feed. There are no instructions so you just have to work it out. I remembered a YouTube video I watch when deciding which mill to buy, this showed the Super Major in action **LINK**. If I had the room its the mill I would have bought. What I wanted to see was how the power feed was fitted. It looks very neat the the part that fits over the bed is level with the top of the bed, mine is not.

I have drawn an arrow showing the gap.

I also refitted the X axis DRO and refitted the rubber protector which was a poor fit from the factory. Much better now.

It now lies flat whareas before it was wrinkled.

Oh, forgot to say, when I tightened the bolts that hold the mill to the stand the Y axis movement became tighter, any ideas?

It's looking good! I had the same problem with the y axis on my coordinate table, turns out you can twist the whole thing if the table isn't flat. So I fixed it by shimming, I mounted an indicator to see how much the mill moved while tightening and then shimmed until I got no movement on any of the bolts. Took shorter time then expected.

Today I have been installing the DRO readout including sorting out some of the wriring. I have also made a top steady to help secure the mill. Its amazing how much time it takes to do the fiddly job, expecially me as I am a bit of a perfectionist.

Managed to have a break and pop to a metal supply shop where I picked up these off cuts, very handy.

.

Looks a nice machine. Enjoy.

Nick

Petro1head

If you are a perfectionist, why are the csk screw heads in your wall bracket out of line?

(Note, that comment is a leg pull, not a criticism ).

And, a serious comment, I will be interested to see if that bracket makes the shed wall resonate like a drum?

Shit! Will have to that again

I have done the same for the drill and so far its ok. Its quite a strudy shed. At least it won't fall down

Edited By petro1head on 03/03/2017 12:03:20

Out of interest I have some backlash on the X axis. I can see there are two small screws where the leadscrew goes through and assume you tighten them? Have tried but all this did was mate the screw stiff (Ooo matron)

Make sure that your handles on each end of the x axis are tight as they set the backlash...or in your case the power drive fitting at one end

Ah right, many thanks, will have a look

Now done, thanks Ian

I have also fitted the light, jesus its big, prob too big

One think I dont like is if I want to machine something thats flat of the bed the Z azis does not go far enough down so I have to use the quill.

I bought R8 collects as I was concerened about tool to bed distance and never thought I would have a problem the other way. One thought would be to buy a R8 EM25 Chuck and collects. Any thoughts?

Edited By petro1head on 03/03/2017 18:18:10

I actually like that light more now that I've seen it in the flesh. It's bigger than it appears on warco's site.

I'm not sure how relevant it is to you, that it wouldn't reach the table, I've never clamped anything directly to the table, if it's of concern to you perhaps you could use some parallels or raising blocks.

To be honest I've never had a workpiece big enough to warrant that, I've got a ridiculously oversized milling vise that seems to eliminate that need.

The quill I find is actually better for taking cuts when it's only partially extended, as you can use the fine feed, Unless you nip up the gibs a bit using the head directly to take cuts is a little precarious with the alignment and shaky.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 03/03/2017 18:35:17

...I can see there are two small screws where the leadscrew goes through and assume you tighten them? Have tried but all this did was mate the screw stiff (Oooh matron)...

​the two smallest screws that you can see are locating pins for the end bearing bracket; slacken off your 4 SHCS make sure the locating screws are pushed / tapped home then lock up your SHCS this will keep you leadscrew in line with the other end bearing.

​George.

SHCS?

I assumed the two scres were for tightening the split in the lead screw

Edited By petro1head on 03/03/2017 23:18:04

Yes, the two screws in the nut are to spread the slot and take up backlash in the nut/screw.

Mechman is looking at the yellow bracket on the end of teh table.

If you get a good hold of the x handwheel and pull/push it this will show any play in the leadscrew where it passes through that yellow bracket. By adjausting the position of the handwheel you should be able to take out play. Basically if there is too big a gap between the flange/ reduced dia on the leadscrew and the handwheel then teh "Backlash" you are getting is this gap being taken upas first the flange pushes against the bracket and then when you turn the handle in teh other direction there is some rotation until the handwheel contacts the bracket