Member postings for Benny Avelin

Thanks George! Your S50 looks great!

Next project is unknown at the moment, maybe a traveling steady?

Sweet indeed! Lovely sound on that engine.

I have had the chance to test it some, first I chucked up a 60mm dia s355j2 bar, faced and parted off a small disc. Went fairly uneventful except quite underpowered for the parting process, however no chatter.

I also faced the ends of a surface hardened hydraulic rod (given to me by someone at some point in time). Worked like a charm.

I am thoroughly pleased with this project, although it took quite some time to complete with my small machines and limited shop-time.

Now, on to the next project...

The steady rest is now completed, I am very pleased with the outcome.

My alternator have been making a hell of a racket. Took it apart and found this

The black worn part is where the bearing is supposed to sit, not a very good situation. I decided to turn it down from 17 to 16 and see if it worked, but that did not clean up the damaged part. I had to go down to 15.6mm damaging the thread a bit (should be plenty strong anyways), sleeved it and turned it to target dimension.

Sleeve pressed on and turned.

I wanted to hit a j5 tolerance for an interference fit with the bearing. That is a very tight tolerance -0.002 +0.003 mm, which I hit by the way

Now the car is all silent again.

These are all parts made for the steady rest

Well there are many ways to make the cutting edges. A way that works well is to grind a pyramid end, as for example **LINK** .

Steel only looses its magnetism at high temperatures, it of course returns after cooling down. Test the hardness of the tap by trying to file it. The way the tap seems to be cutting, it doesn't feed itself and is recutting. Perhaps if you had a bigger hole to begin with, 8mm is a bit on the small side. How does the taps cutting edge look like? Negative or positive cutting angle?

Btw, the design is based on Dave Fenners tailstock die holder from MEW 157.

To proceed I decided to stop and make the following die holder.

Had some trouble with this particular steel I chose for the screw C45E. I did two attempts to harden it but it cracked both times. I usually dont have problems with silver-steel when quenching in water, and the info about C45E says you can quench in water. For the last attempt I quenched in motor oil and this was a success.

Great!

I cannot say that the article is clear about the point of these screws, in general I found the drawings and article hard to understand, but that is maybe my problem

If you decide to build it, please post pics of your progress.

Ps. I never work with BA threads, for us that are not accustomed the reverse numbering is quite confusing at first glance.

Well I was referring to the first sentence of the first paragraph in the r.h. column

I understand that sentence as there is one 2BA and one 0BA, both with the end turned down to 3.5mm. However, you are right in that the screw is too short, or at least the threaded portion should be longer. 3.5 mm of 0BA is not very long. There seems to be no real reason for having the second hole 0BA, I would just make two 2BA screws and work with that.

To me it seems like there is only one 2BA screw and one 0BA (see top of page 13), the 2BA is the permanent one and the 0BA can be taken out or put in depending on the feed-rate wanted.

With a fear of sounding repetitive, it looks amazing! You can certainly be proud of this, no need to be so humble.

I agree, it sounds like gears almost in mesh.

It's looking great! I wish I had you painting skills/patience.

Thanks ega! I try to work with what I have, but I always think that my machines are too small.

Manual slant bed lathes is not something I usually see. It seems like a really nice lathe, large capacity w.r.t. size.

It sure looks small on that lathe

Some more progress. I have ordered some material for the rest of this build, for instance some JM1 bronze for the fingers.

Setup for drilling the holes to screw the thing together.

My fat chuck could not reach down far enough to drill through with a 5mm drill, so I made this B12-15mm arbor for this small chuck.

Annoyingly the chuck did not perform well. I purchased it on a flea market last year but it does not chuck drills in a straight fashion. I have to take some time in the future to disassemble and inspect.

Measuring the center height.

The nerve wrecking experience of sawing the ring off.

It turned out very acceptable, and a cleanup on the mill finished it off.