Member postings for petro1head

Plenty of other suppliers other than Glanze, Mine were JB Cutting tools, look for SCBCR and SCBCL such as the ones from APT

Not sure why Clive's one can't easily be used for facing, could be as his are pin location rather than the screw location I have and why my codes start with S for screw .this is mine in action

Edited By JasonB on 29/09/2023 14:15:13

With the right holders all 4 corners of a CCMT can be used

Not sure if THESE are the same type of thing as they say they are used to produce a satin finish on metal. Have been thinking of trying them if anyone has any experience of them.

I also looked at the M3 ones and found them expensive

Fz x flute x rpm

0.027 x 3 x 1000 = 81mm/min for the slot (YG give 1100rpm)

0.045 x 3 x 1000 = 135mm/min for the side cut (GY give 1100rpm)

Generally on the manual machine I've just go a feel for the speed and how fast to turn the handle and generally adjust how fast I'm turning if it does not sound right.

On the CNC I've got used to what works with the cutters I typically use and may just alter the feed if needed when doing the CAM, if it's a finish cut I'll probably slow it down a bit same if very deep or lots of tight internal corners to reduce the risk of chatter.

That is a variable that often depends on the type of cut and how much of the cutting edges are being used.

If cutting a slot where the whole width of the cutter is being used then you would probably want a lower Fz than if using the side of the cutter to profile an edge.

Some makers give optimum Fz figures for their cutters so you may find for a slot of 0.5D depth the Fz is 0.027mm but for side cutting at 1.5D height and 0.1D stepover the Fz would be 0.045mm on low carbon steel (YG-1 figures for similar spec cutter)

You will need to adjust it to suit a hobby machine, start with say half that and see how the cut sounds and what the chips look like

Edited By JasonB on 10/09/2023 10:20:57

I am going to make one for my WM16. It has the 2 thin nuts at the top of the shaft. How did you couple your stepper to the shaft? I am thinking of removing the top nut and making a coupling with the same internal thread.

Stuart

First thing is to check that the tool holders go low enough to take a 16mm tool

Second thing is wether the lathe is man enough to take cuts larger than you already can with 12mm.

This is 0.250" eg 1/2" off dia with a 1/4" tool. Only really need more if overhang is greater. Could not cut anywhere near that deep on say a 6" dia part as lathe will stall long before the tool cross section is tested to it's limit

Edited By JasonB on 27/08/2023 13:58:07

Depends on the machine and whether you can or need to take big cuts.

I think they look worn - the bottom sliding gear dogs are rounding off - compare engagment in top photo with that in the lower..

..but is it a cause or a symptom?

That is so you can have say a right hand tool which has it's shank across the lathe axis and then change to say a boring bar that has it's shank along the axis without having to move the post.

Larger posts tend to have three or four sides that can take tools so you get the best of both worlds.

Edited By JasonB on 24/07/2023 19:14:59