ML10 modifications

Hello,

My name is John,64 years old and am looking for advice on my new hobby.

I have purchased a Myford ML10 lathe and am considering a way round to fitting a clutch unit from an ML7 lathe with some modification,but I am now sold on the idea of using a 3 phase motor together with an inverter so that I am able to attain variable speed control as opposed to the 6 designated speeds that are present now and also eliminates belt changing. Does anyone have suggestions as to whether this is a good option or not.

I'm hoping to kit this lathe out in the near future with some home made mods. which I have in mind in order to make the lathe better equipped.

I realise that I have a lot to learn in terms of metal turning and will in no way become a professional in my lifetime but I am happy to plod along and enjoy this wonderful hobby and learn from others of more experience.

Any advice would help.

John.

Definately worth going the 3-phase + inverter route. I wouldn't want to be without them on my lathe and mill now.

Russell.

Hi John,

I agree with Russel, a 3-phase motor and inverter will give you variable speed and you can use the belts when you need a lot of torque (for instance when turning a large diameter flywheel). I replaced the single phase motor on my lathe with a 3-phase and an inverter and am very happy with that solution.

Thor

Hi John

I had an ML10 for some years and found it a useful little machine. I must say that I never thought of fitting a clutch to it and, if starting with an ML10 again I don't think that would be my priority.

Mods I did make that were useful were:-

Adjustable micrometer dials to the cross slide and top slide.

Adjustable micrometer dial to the (tailstock end|) of the leadscrew.

Leadscrew clutch - disconnects the leadscrew from the gear train so that, by engaging the half nuts, the carriage can be moved by the leadscrew handle.

The 3-phase / inverter option was not really available when I had my machine and this would be nice. Do be aware though of a possible speed limitation on early versions of the ML10 which had a plain bearing headstock. Information on this and other aspects of the machine is available by clicking HERE

Regards

Norman

John

I second that. Inverter and remote pendant was the first mod I made to my ML10, really useful and we'll worth it in my opinion.

Trev

John, there are 2 modifications if they have not already been done, the first is to modify the cross slide bearing (This mod is shown on ArcEuro web page at the bottom of the list 'Projects and articles' and is a mod. to the cross slide thrust bearing,) all the parts available from ArcEuro) If you have a vertical slide then this mod becomes easy as you can use the bracket off the vert. slide to modify and then just do a swop over the brackets. You will need to make a small jig to hold the bracket when you machine it.

The 2nd is a mod to the screwcutting shaft where it is cut and a dog clutch fitted and a graduated collar replaces the lock nut on the right hand end of the shaft. Hopefully available from the new owners of Myford..

The ML10 is a handy lathe and has done all I ask of it without drive mods.

I am working on another mod of my own where |i am fitting a shroud over the screwcutting spindle to stop swarf getting into the 2 thread clamps. Not complete yet as i have to strip the front of the apron to drill the 2 fixing holes.

Clive

Edited By Clive Hartland on 26/08/2014 17:34:01

John,

I had and my brother still has my Myford ML10. I used it in my spare time for a few years and think it is a superb machine - very capable. I agree with Norman and Clive.

I fitted the leadscrew clutch and my next priority would have been to try and protect the leadscrew nut halves from swarf. I had a slightly later version of the machine which had nice clear micrometer dials but they were not adjustable. I do like the sound of the cross slide bearings.

PhilH.

I would agree the leadscrew clutch is the first essential mod and a leadscrew dial too.

I have a home made "clutch" fitted to mine made many years ago and would not be without it. It can be seen in the video below.

ML 10 is a great machine and somewhat under rated as poor cousin to ML7 range.

Hi John,

Having owned my Super 7 from new (1995), I can honestly say that the best "accessory" bought has been the recent fitting of a NewtonTesla package ( **LINK** ) to replace the standard single phase setup.

Makes the lathe so much smoother, quieter and in turn a lot more pleasurable to use.

Nick.

Hi guys,

I would like to thank all of you for your responses to my post and will let you know how I get on with this mod.

Hope to keep in touch with other projects and help.

It's great to see so many enthusiastic people out there with great ideas.

John.

Another mod which is very useful is to make an adjustable dial for the cross slide so it can be zeroed.

I used a design which was in ME many years ago sorry I don't have the issue number.

Hi all,

Firstly Happy New Year to you all.

Has been a while since I last posted a thread,but regarding the mods on my ML10 lathe am pleased to say that things are looking good.The Newton Tesla variable speed controller conversion is now in place and what a difference,I'm so glad I took the advice offered.Superb control throughout its range,plenty of torque,smooth running,jog mode great.The company (Newton Tesla) who are very close to home were so helpful on my visit and gave me a full demonstration of the unit,I was sold after that.I was able to claw some funding back by selling the original motor on to a very satisfied person so all in all a good deal was had.

Other projects which are ongoing for the lathe are time consuming but pleasing and at completion are three DRO units which have been produced with a lot of help through an engineering friend.

They consist of a tail stock unit,cross slide unit and an 'x' 'y' carriage unit.

I will post some photos asap.

I have a problem which hopefully can be sorted on the forum.

I was very kindly given a long cross slide for the ML10 which also had the gib strip included and no feedscrew,not a problem as they are still obtainable.It is the base unit which is used to hold the top slide which is very similar to the Super 7 which I cannot source.My set up at the moment is the short cross slide with the large countersunk hole with a countersunk short arbor which attaches the top slide base.To change over to the long cross slide is not possible on this set up.Can anybody shed some light.

John

Hi John

Happy New Year!

The long cross slide comes in very useful especially if clamping parts or using the vertical slide. Are you saying there's an alternative cross slide that takes a different type of top slide? Haven't come across that.

Trev

Hi Trev,

Yes the long cross slide is a lot more versatile in many ways,however the cross slide I was given which is an older version than the new ones you can buy from RDG Myford ,differs in the fact that the mounting hole is larger,very much like the Super 7 but the top slide on my machine will not fit the Super 7 base.

I understand that the later ML10 diamond 10 has the long cross slide so I would imagine that the base fitting on this machine would be the one that I need but again the difficulty is sourcing one.

John

John

It sounds like you have some home-made or modified cross slide. All the ML10 models used the same cross slides (std or long) out of the factory as far as I know. Have you looked at the Ml10 photos on lathes.co.uk?

Trev

Hi Trev,

Yes if you look at the Speed 10 particularly the side of the cross slide you can see a square headed adjuster which acts on thrust pads on both sides which in turn act on the machined part of the base I think.

John

That's correct, all the ML10s use that method. I'm now not sure what your problem is and what you are trying to achieve.

Trev

John,

The cross-slides for the ML10 and the Speed 10 were interchangeable. Long slide was standard on the Speed 10, but an optional extra on the ML10. As Trev says, the method of fixing and locking the topslide was the same for both, with a bolt each side of the cross-slide.

So perhaps someone has given you a non-ML10 slide, but I think the Super 7 one would be too wide for the ML10.

Pictures with dimensions would be a big help to see what the problem is.

Edited By Robbo on 07/01/2015 23:14:00

Hi Robbo,

The long cross slide does fit the the swivel base,I've tried it.

I think pictures paint thousand words.

I hope these pictures help.

Dimension of long cross slide (left) is 9 7/16" x 3 1/4" with a 1 3/8" hole.

Dimension of short cross slide (right) is 7 1/8" x 3" with 13/16" hole

Notice there are no tapped holes in the side of the short cross slide for the thrust pads as they are in the top slide swivel base which shows where the thrust pads contact the smaller holes in the short post protruding through the cross slide.

So the problem is that I need to source the correct swivel base in order to fit the long cross slide.

John