Member postings for TrevorK

The Celtic knot symbol is that of the Denbigh Engineering Co. You’ll find some info about them on lathes.co.uk where there is currently a Denbigh Miller for sale. I’m currently restoring a Denbigh mechanical hacksaw.

Frances, I have sent you a PM

I have fitted a gas strut. In MEW 150 David White describes how to do this. I also fitted a replacement bearing block and bearing to the Z axis from a design by Graham Meek. There are a couple of photos in one of my albums. These two mods have made a dramatic improvement to moving the head but I'd also be interested in motorising the Z axis.

Nothing received or heard other than what Martin reports.

Trev

Frances, I recently fitted slimline magnetic scales to my X1L as an interim measure until I upgrade the mill. I can then transfer the X-axis scale on a larger machine. Fitting did require a fair bit on redesign of the mounting brackets to fit into the limited space on this small machine, and some loss of Y-axis travel. I have used scales and display from ems-international in Leicester. For the Z-axis I have the Arc digital readout bar. Overall its a great improvement on using the hand wheel scales - but cost more than the mill!

That's correct, all the ML10s use that method. I'm now not sure what your problem is and what you are trying to achieve.

Trev

John

It sounds like you have some home-made or modified cross slide. All the ML10 models used the same cross slides (std or long) out of the factory as far as I know. Have you looked at the Ml10 photos on lathes.co.uk?

Trev

Hi John

Happy New Year!

The long cross slide comes in very useful especially if clamping parts or using the vertical slide. Are you saying there's an alternative cross slide that takes a different type of top slide? Haven't come across that.

Trev

Andrew

I have sent you a PM, see your Inbox.

Trevor

Ken

I can provide the V42 articles, might have V41 too, will check tomorrow. V40 (1919) is the earliest I have. I'll PM you once I've checked.

Trev

Russ

Thanks for setting up the thread in reply to my PM, its generated some useful alternative methods to the one I was going to try first so I'll set my woodwork plan aside for now. Peter, Ian, thanks for your input . I'm off to Polly for some brass strip.

For what its worth, I agree with Vic.

Thanks

Trevor

Edited By Toolgrinding on 28/09/2014 11:16:14

Hi

Just raising this topic again as I'm doing some research before buying an RT. My initial work is to put radius's on parts rather than chucking work, though I can see I might want that capability in the future.

All the RTs of 100mm size I've found so far have MT centres whereas I'm thinking a parallel bore where I could drop in various size mandrels for the work would be better. Or does one use some kind of MT adaptor that will hold these mandrels? What are the pros/cons of MT vs straight bore? Does anyone know a supplier of an RT with straight bore?

Trev

Graham

Back from holiday, read you posting, want to join the queue, sent PM.

Regards Trevor

John

I second that. Inverter and remote pendant was the first mod I made to my ML10, really useful and we'll worth it in my opinion.

Trev

Hi All

I've been reading up and googling this as I have a couple of new 3 phase motors I could use on projects that don't need variable speed. These motors are 1/2 HP running at 2850RPM. I have studied Jim Cox's workshop practice books on motors and it seems very straightforward. I'm thinking of using this circuit to drive the motor:

Acknowledging Jim Cox WPS book 16 for this circuit.

Does anyone have any experience, comments on running 3-phase like this? Thanks

Trev

Edited By Toolgrinding on 21/07/2014 21:08:32

Norman, its 7/16" BSF

Trevor

Mike

I've sent you a PM

Trev

Kevin

You'll find my email address in my second PM (message in your inbox). Mail me using that address rather than on this forum.

Les - thanks!

Kevin

I've PM'd you

Regards

Trevor