New, old Myford Super 7 essentials

Hi all

I recently acquired a myford super 7. It runs very well and appears to have been kept in good condition. Of course its old, and there's crud in lots of nooks and crannies, and I am fairly certain that standard wear items will need replacing.

I do not think I am up to do a complete strip down and refurbishment, but would like to know what I could do in lieu of this to keep the machine in good stead. Things like replacing the wick feed oiler, remove, clean and reassemble the apron / Cross feed assembly, etc. One thing I am especially concerned about is ensuring that oil is getting where it needs to be. Any tips would be much appreciated

Thanks

Check that the oil ways are not choked with grease!

This is exactly the thing I am concerned about. I would like to do as much as I can without a complete disassembly, really.

I do not think I am up to do a complete strip down and refurbishment ...... Things like replacing the wick feed oiler, remove, clean and reassemble the apron / Cross feed assembly, etc.

Sounds like you are most of the way to the complete strip down you don't want to do with that short list !

Replacing the spindle oil wick requires removal of the spindle, which will require setting up again on re-assembly. Nothing hard about it, just take your time & be careful.

+1 for checking that a previous owner didn't read the manual & used a grease gun on the various oil nipples. The "technician" at the school who originally owned my S7 had not read the manual ! Fortunately the school didn't appear to use the machine much, so no lasting damage done.

Nigel B.

Did the machine come with an oil gun and did it contain oil as opposed to grease?

It's normally possible to see whether the various S7 nipples are accepting oil.

You need to remove the spindle to replace the wick but the other points you mention are easy to check (PCF cross slide more complicated than the earlier one, I believe).

From my own experience, you need to check that the back gear is working freely; the nipple in the pulley is easy to neglect.

I assume you have the manual with lube chart.

If the OP had given his general location it might have enabled help to be offered.

His first post on the forum; somewhere within easy reach of Leeds by the look of it.

Bill

The critical thing is obviously the front spindle bearing. If you put the nozzle of the oil gun in the oil cup and pump you should see oil issueing from the front bearing. Normally it is possible to see a small meniscus of oil arount the front bearing where the spindle exits. If its hard to see chech with a white tissue.

regards Martin

Hi all

Thanks for the replies. Yes I have an oil gun from myford, which I purchased. Also have the original manual and spareys book.

It looks to me as there is a thin layer of oil around the spindle bearing. I'll check if I can see anything flowing out when I add more oil.

I'll need to give the back gear a run. Haven't used that yet.

With regard to location, I'm just outside Leeds.

I have lubed all points in the chart. Some take the oil no problem. Others don't seem as easy to accept it. That's what got me thinking about whether some might be blocked.

Hiya Jak2g from another Super 7 owner & also just outside Leeds. Hope you get on ok with it. I use mine a lot & have learned a lot too from Forum members.

Steve.

Guys good afternoon I am brand new to the group and would like a little help. Some time ago I bought a Myford super 7 B with natural and imperial gearbox and I read and downloaded some tables where by mounting a 33 or 34 tooth gear you can make metric threads. Therefore the gear must be mounted under the gear change gears (idle). On my Torino there is a double and fixed gear 12/30 teeth. how can i mount 33 or 34 teeth? If I remove the double do I have to keep 30 teeth internally and then mount 33 or 34 or is there something I'm missing? thank you for your future cooperation and thank you in advance. How can I understand how to send photos I am sending you some pictures of my jewels. Super 7B and ml7. greetings Giovanni

I'm sure you could easily remove the spindle, there are plenty of instructions about. I can remove the spindle of the museum's Smart & Brown model A in 15 minutes now, but I removed the entire headstock the first time, somewhat unneccessarily the first time I did it.

Welcome Giovanni, Is english your first language ? I will look at some tables and see if I can help you. I understand you have a super 7 with A) change wheels or B) a norton(quick change ) gear box ? Where do you live ? Good luck Noel

If you have the Myford oil gun, you will never go rusty!

Get a Reilang, they come in three sizes, and don't leak oil everywhere. They just put the oil where you press the nozzle onto the ball of the oiler. Your savings on oil, and torn hair, will pay for the Reilang.

There is a fair chance that it will force oil through passages that would defeat the Myford oil gun.

A telescopic sight rifle rather than a scatter gun

Howard

Hi Giovanni. Welcome to the forum. Sorry I do not have a Myford so cannot be of much help. It would be better to start a new thread so answers can be posted to it so as not to confuse the original posters query.

regards

Giovanni, hello and welcome.

For the last part of your query have a look on This Thread by Neil on how to post photos.

For the first part, it is difficult to explain just in words.
What you have described as "gear change gears (idle)." are often referred to as "Tumbler Gears" up here in the UK, and are often made of plastic or Tufnol.
These drive the two part gear you mention as the start of the gear train into the gearbox. This is the one you have describes as "double and fixed gear 12/30 teeth"

The 12 tooth end is where you would need to fit the 33 or 34 tooth gears, but I understand your confusion, as I think you have the wrong part fitted (the 12/30 one).

On the lathe without a gearbox, there is a similar arrangement, with a double gear. This is actually a 30 tooth gear, but where you have the 12 tooth one, there is a plain stub to fit the gear of your choice.
This is what should be fitted to your 7B-with a gearbox. It would allow you to use the correct gear combination to start off your drive chain, using a 24/30 as opposed to the 12/30 that you have at the moment.
The 33 & 34 toot gears you have read about (as well as a 21) would take the place of the 24 tooth gear, so that you could have 21/30, 33/30, 34/30 in able to cut metric threads on your Imperial lathe.

The 12/30 one piece gear you have is an optional extra for the change-wheel lathe; that is the one without a gearbox. i.e. the Super 7 as opposed to your Super 7B

It is intended to provide an even finer feed for normal turning operations, but in your case at the moment it will give only ½ the pitch you select on the gearbox.

You will need to swap your 12/30 gear for a Blank-Stub/30 one. It also has the advantage of being fitted with a needle roller bearing .

It sounds like you have one of THESE
Whereas you need one of THESE

I hope this is clear, but if not please come back and ask, and I'll take some photos of my setup(s)

Bill

Giovanni,

Have a look at this thread **LINK** I think you will find it useful, it seems to be what you are looking for -- a long read but hopefully will solve your problem ?

John

Dried oil and sludge is the main cause of blocked oilways. If you force that through, sometimes you get a product that will act like a lapping paste left behind that will wear out the machine.

I've suggested Giovanni start a new thread, but when he does I do have a query.
Did the very first Myford gearboxes use a different drive chain, and could his 12/30 gear actually be correct for his box?

Bill