Member postings for Bazyle

Now that heating is off it is advisable to cover all tools and especially machines with an old cotton sheet, possibly a blanket if available to catch the dew that will now be dropping down in the shed on some days. NOT a plastic sheet which will sweat underneath exactly the opposite of what you want. Yes I know Myford sell a plastic lathe cover but that is intended for heated industrial users and schools, not your damp shed.

I have a Pratt 2 JAW chuck which is similar but the back end is thinned down. "No8 Empire chuck"
In the first link Addy posted a Drummond catalogue print which has a bell chuck - sort of 4 jaw in its day. I have one of those too.

Good point MG.

Potentially useful for giving a talk on steam engines or at an exhibition where someone is on hand to explain it. I still remember a club presentation from about 20 years ago that used such a model, though it may have been Stephenson's.

It has plain bearings - v-belts are already a step up from the original flat leather so why waste resources on new pulleys. If they slip a bit so what.

Don't forget the finished model is going to get heavier by the cube of the dimension and assemblies you can lift on a small one cause a slipped disc on the bigger one, Also bits dropped on your foot do more damage.

Meanwhile Fred's model above looks superb. Another item on my wish list.

It's only been there since the seventies - it's not old, just out of date. Hardly heritage material.

This comes up every now and again on here and on the HSM forum but can be buried in threads with obscure titles. There isn't a simple plug and play system nor even a simple Arduino/pi/other system for sale like the electronic leadscrew options. John initially had a pure TTL logic chip solution but later converted to a computer based system somebody developed for him, which as far as I know has not been made commercially available.
However a couple of people on here I think have got it sorted, but they are advanced electronics tinkerers.

Jelly - perhaps buy the new one then scrape your old one against it? I just had a look at a bit of granite worktop 18"x 18" I have just as a solid base for small machine and thought of checking it against my actual granite lump but one attempt to lift a corner quickly changed my mind.
I do have a long strip of epoxy stone worktop that came with some loco frames for setting them up without twist. It may not be precision but it feels like an effort is being made.

Are ceramic tiles hard all the way through or could it be porous with a hard glaze?

Here's another one "the only aproved.....". (advertising garbage of course)

The only 'improvement' you can make to a solid fuel boiler is to fit one of the several expensive flow control systems that recirculate the warm water round the boiler until it reaches about 60C while ensuring a failover to gravity flow if the pump breaks or loses electricity. This is to reduce the period of low temperature combustion producing condensation (hence rust) and unburned hydrocarbons that rot even stainless flues.
This uses a thermostatic valve - normally the same as a car radiator one actually. Ideally they would close when hot but because they do actually use a car one the system gets a bit convoluted to make an open when hot one work.
They are called "charging stations" or "hear charger" eg this one. Or this one by laddomat who have probably been in the business the longest..

Anyway what you actually get is a few years extra life on your boiler and chimney liner before rot out and maybe a few % increased efficiency for an hour a day.

Nit pick. The diagrams fail to show the mandatory heat link radiator (water tank has valve so non-compliant) and injector-T and overheat vent. In theory if you make a change to the existing 20th century arrangement you have to fit the extra mandatory extras.

Really you can only use cast iron because of the way it can be scraped. I'm not sure how other materials would respond. You can grind glass and therefore probably porcelain. Generally tiles of various sorts are gong to be thin and hence flexible so you would want to laminate a few together first.

Another possibility is to find a kitchen fitter and see if they will give you the bits they cut out of granite worktops for the sink. These are still too thin to use as is.

Don't use vinegar or evaporust for protection - they are derusters that must be washed off after a few minutes.
+1 for clear Waxoyl but dilute it 25-50 % with white spirit so that it 'dries' to a thin film that feels like a Postit note glue. This is more hand friendly than oil and will clear off when the tool is used or oiled for use. I use it routinely for tools and stock material.

It can be even simpler than that. First understand the principles behind it and what it is doing and realise itis just an indicator that requires no physical strength. Then you should be able to understand that you can make one by cutting a piece of cardboard to have 'teeth' and pencil in the divisions around the top, rotating on a drawing pin.
The luxury version is made of plastic sheet!
More seriously there is a design on Thingiverse for 3D printing. Well done ACE3DJ for providing that as it even includes metric. If you are having to ask someone to do the printing you could just ask for the gears and make the rest out of wood/plastic/whatever.

Off topic but we should all learn from Jason's picture above of glued on bosses how one can save power and time machining and waste less metal as swarf by using that technique rather than, in perhaps more distant future, setting a CNC milling machine to carve it from a bigger block just because it can.

Probably easier to make on a treadle lathe with a very slow speed. Wrap a piece of string around it to mark the spiral, mark with paint that will go into the gaps in the turns of string. Follow the path with a file hand forming a rough groove. As you get some definition for the groove the file will follow it under power. Just a version of hand chasing a thread.

When the above mentioned clock was made pennies were pretty valuable given a day's wage could be less than a shilling. I wonder who was providing the coins with such abandon.

There are loads of 5MT lathes in hobbyists hands so a potential market out there. I did try to interest John Stevenson in making them but as he was making the ER collet blocks he has no time for another product.
I believe a 3MT to 5MT adaptor is a starting point if making one.

Do you get the problem left to right and right to left? If so it is not the tramming (not all) and indicates flexing in the mill owing to too deep a cut or incorrectly sharpened tool.
Instead of using an endmill just make a small diameter flycutter. They do not have to be six inches wide. You can make one half an inch wide and take multiple passes just like an endmill.

The ME10's 3MT headstock allows you to use 3C collets. If you get a lathe with a 5MT you can use 5C collets though everyone nowadays wants ER.

I'm surprised they are missing from UK ones. Obviously ones shipped to Australia the gap piece fell out when they tried to use it upside down. Not to worry though as Jason will show how to fill the gaps with JB weld.