Member postings for Ed Duffner

Removed a Sycamore tree stump from the garden. Multiple trunks between Ø2.0" and 4". The main root was about 7" to 8".

Started making a brcket to add a magnetic Z-axis scale on the the quill on my milling machine.

Currenlty watching Live(I think) the Spacex launch.

Ed.

Might be worth an enquiry to Warco. They sometimes have used machines for sale.

Ed.

An experiment in making model split big-end bearings for a twin marine engine and a couple of insects from the garden. More insects in the album. The bearings are Ø5.0mm ID.

Ed.

Hi Rod, might be a "Harpalus Affinis" when compared to the bugs in my Collins British insect book.

Ed.

I would use a hole saw to core out the plug, then gently cut out the remaining ring with a pad-saw. Is it possible the plug could be pinned, preventing its removal?

Ed.

Edit: Just noticed I suggested the same as a previous poster (overlapped posting).

Edited By Ed Duffner on 22/05/2020 17:28:40

Hi Steve, I don't know what you're looking to spend but how about the Fuji X100V? or something very small, the Nikon A1000?

Ed.

In firefox, F11 to go fullscreen and if the magazine doesn't auto resize use F5 to reload the page. Hit F11 again to come out of full screen.

Ed.

Hi Jason, Richard,

Yeah I just noticed Richard is using the Surface workspace tab. For solids, use the Solid workspace tab.

Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 07/05/2020 20:43:04

Hi Richard,

You can only fillet an internal corner if the two converging faces are on the same body. If the hinge is a seperate body than what it is attched to you'll only be able to fillet the edges of the hinge's body, this is why the arrow is pointing the wrong way.

To fillet an internal corner you need to join the hinge and the other part, you could use Modify/Combine. Or when you extrude the sketch of the hinge profile, make sure the Operation is set to "Join" in the extrude dialogue box instead of New Body.

Ed.

That's all making sense, thanks again chaps.

I did find that using the term "key seat" in google gave much more info than just advertising and sales pages. One reference also includes standards for width tolerance. Link

Ed.

Wow, that was quick. Thank you very much indeed guys.

Regards,
Ed.

Hello guys,

I would like to make a keyway broach guide/bushing Ø19.00mm (for a 6.00mm broach). I'm a bit stuck on working out the depth I need to cut the groove into the bushing and the reference I can use to start the cut.

My understanding is that 3.0mm of the key should engage into both the shaft and the mating part, a coupling in my case. Is the 3.0mm taken from the tangent plane of the shaft or from slightly lower where the 6.0mm key width would intersect the shaft diameter.

The highest tooth on the broach is 16.66mm and the supplied shim is 1.46mm thick, so in total 18.12mm. The broach is 9.64mm wide along its spine.

If I measure the back to back distance from one side of the motor shaft to the opposite outside face of the key I get 22.00mm.

Can I just touch off the cutter on the 19.00mm diameter of the bush and mill to a depth of 18.12mm or should it be a little deeper? What is or is there a correct way to do this?

Is this the kind of info that would be in a Zeus Guide or Engineer's handbook?

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the narrow end of the broach is 14.65mm and the height of the first tooth is 15.00mm

Thanks,
Ed.

Edited By Ed Duffner on 06/05/2020 15:22:00

Can the models in Solid Edge be exported as STEP files? If so, I believe they could then be imported into Fusion 360 to use its CAM module.

Ed.

Looks very professional Neil, well done indeed. Will you need to darken the inside of the OTA?

Ed.

- Swapped out my fluorescent lights for the LED sort in the shed. It's very bright but not too harsh on the eyes.

- 3D printed some resin parts for my brother. He's scratch building a V&W Class Destroyer in 1/96 scale, HMS Vega. Have spent hours in fusion 360 on this.

- Completed the installation of a DRO to the mill, finally!.

- Machined a custom oldham coupling to enable fitting a 3phase motor to the mill, but the idea was canned because I wouldn't have been able to remove the draw-bar . Then machined a stub shaft (photo below) so the motor can sit in its original place and use the machine's helical drive gear. The motor mount plate willl be next.

- I'm also part way through motorising my rotary table.

Ed.

How about a collet chuck? ...or turn between centers with a drive dog?

Ed.

I use Evergreen and generally take an aerosol cap, fill it about half way and sprinkle that over a 1msq area. Use a larger bowl to pour the stuff into first. It's easier to scoop into as you go.

Ed. I need to get some, the weeds are sprouting fast this year!

Log burning stove/fire? ...with a flue.

Ed.

I've had pretty much the same issues with my Warco WM-16 for a long time. The brushes in these motors are incredibly soft when compared to other DC motor brushes, like those used in power tools.

I reshaped my brushes by very carefully running the contact face along the curved edge of a half round file, similar to the radius of the commutator. It does work but the bushes soon wear down again. I also think the controller is prone to poor speed regulation, adding to the frustration.

The experience I've had with DC motors in power tools is that, if the commutator starts to flash then the armature is on its way out, however I'd never claim to be a motor expert.

I had considered sourcing brushes with a harder compound, but I've now gone ahead and bought a new 3-phase motor and inverter, hopefully to be installed soon.

Ed.

Thank you Neil.

At 4.19 the video shows a tool and cutter grinder. Is this of a particular design perhaps? or a self designed/made tool?

Ed.