Member postings for Roderick Jenkins

Mick,

Your pitch pipes are probably for tuning violins (4 pipes) or guitar (6). If so, they will likely be reed pipes rather than a flue pipe as used for steam whistles.

Rod

I've got one of these. I've had it from new.

Here's the screw:

Note the wear at the tip - the diameter varies from 6.02mm to 6.14mm towards the head. An M6 screw is very loose in the plane hole but a 1/4" BSF goes very stiff after about 5 turns. The screw, like the plane is plated. Anyway, the image is here if anybody fancies a bit of photgrammetry.

Rod

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 15/10/2022 21:23:11

Well, most of yesterday actually. Designed and printed a stand for my Metric taps and dies:

Took 8 hours to print. I like these non adjustable dies from ARC - they cut very nicely.

Rod

I think the only chuck that Myford regularly supplied that did not need a backplate was the 6" 4 jaw independent which needs to be both slim and have minimal overhang to fit in the bed gap. As far as I am aware all the Myford supplied chucks were made by Burnerd in its various guises.

Rod

My view of the Hoglet is that it is largely a noise maker. For just getting the engine to run then the cam timings are not at all critical - the article refers to some quite radical changes to get a more Harley like burble. If the cam angles are reversed then it should still be fine, as Andrew may have demonstrated

Flywheels. I opted for the expensive bling factor with a length of bronze pipe. Cleaned up inside and out in the 4 jaw. Cuts very nicely with a CCGT 0.4 tip

Tough stuff though, parting in 2 was a struggle. My carbide insert parting blades wouldn't touch it but the HSS blade, freshly sharpened it worked OK, albeit with a lot of screeching and complaining

Held in the 3 jaw by the inner circumference for final thicknessing and O.D.

Then transferred to my smaller 4 jaw so that I could bring the inner measurement to size without the jaw interfering with the through cut

Then the chamfer

Shiny!

All that expensive swarf

I was struggling to get accurate i.d. by measurement with a caliper gauge - my telescope gauges are not large enough. The crank webs need to be 3 thou over size for the shrink fit. I turned an ally spigot to fit each crank ring that I was more comfortable measuring to get an accurate figure, there is a couple of thou difference between the 2 rings

I've been giving some more considered thought to the issue of grabbing the crank shaft and pin in the crank web. My first thought was to minimise distortion by stress relieving the 2" x1/2" bar that I will use so I heated the blanks up to 550C in my little furnace and let them soak for an hour before allowing them to cool in the furnace.

The next idea was that working on the principle that it is easier to make a shaft to fit a hole than vice versa I would ream the hole to 23/64" rather than 3/8" and turn down the end of the pin for a good, tight fit. The disadvantage of this method is that the crankshaft/con rod assembly will have to be pre-assembled and the crankcase built around it

The weight relieving crescents were roughed out by chain drilling before finishing with the boring head

Quite a bit of trial and error ensued. To cut a long story short the the reamer (of unknown provenance and tolerance) is nominally 0.359" diameter. To get a pin to grip in the hole using an M5 screw to close up the holes the pins needed to be a tightish "tap home with a hammer" fit 0.362" diameter and be within 0.0002" the same diameter otherwise one would tighten and the other wouldn't. That entailed quite a bit of work with a dead smooth file

Both of these pins held securely enough such that if I grip them tightly with the fibre jaws in the vice the pins will turn in the vice rather than in the web

So I guess that sort of works and will have to be repeated for the other web. Whether that is better than using Loctite I'm not sure. However, the experience leads me to wonder whether an undersize 3/8" reamer might do the job. Not easy to source for a reasonable sum but a 9.5mm H7 reamer is nominally 1 thou under 0.375" and ARC sell them for a pension friendly(ish) sum. Order placed...

Watch this space for the next exciting installment,

Rod

Range is from 1 to 10mm in 0.1 steps and then 0, .5 and .8 up to 12. The drills fit fairly firmly in the hols so a 2 hand job to extract (one to steady the stand) but on the plus side they will not fall out if the stand is knocked over. These drills are mostly tapping sizes for M coarse, BSF, BSW and BA plus some ME sizes. I couldn't get the 10mm plus drills in stub length . My jobber length drills in metric(1-5.9) and (6-10) in 0.1 increments and 1/16 to 1/2 in 64ths live in the metal cases they came in.

Works for me,

Rod

I bought one of these from ebay **LINK**

to store my increasing collection of stub drills.

HTH,

(other) Rod

Ian,

Looking good.

Ignition wise, I've plumped for the RCEXL unit that Andew Whale used **LINK**

For a carb I'm going to try the one I made according to the drawings for my Matador which also worked very nicely on my Wyvern. If that works I'll make one with the same internals to better suite the Hoglet.

Rod

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 29/09/2022 00:59:44

Graham,

Here's a pic from the long end. I can't guarantee that it is correct but at least it looks like Jason's. If I were to use the Cox method again I would make a foreshortened version in aluminium and start with the middle cam first to make sure that I understand the correct way to rotate the blank between cams.

Incidentally, I made a setting ring 0.8" diam for the cutting radius

Hope this helps,

Rod

I have both a usb/pc inspection camera and an Android phone one. Both have adjustable built in lights at the camera end. They are cheap ebay/Amazon products bought for a particular purpose but they are functional.

Rod

Hold the threaded end in the drill chuck in the tailstock, introduce the head into the 3 jaw chuck, tighten this, loosen the drill chuck and slide the tail stock out of the way.

Richard,

Good thought. Not much room for a 6" rule but a craft knife blade would probably work nicely.

Cheers,

Rod

Cams. This is my setup.

For the top cam the table is at it's very lowest extent. A respectable cam set was produced though it was hard work. I try and avoid feeding a cut by raising the table ( I don't have a quill). 2 hours of moving the table up and down was painful on the wrist. Sadly, I got the orientation of the single cams reversed. I found it difficult to get my head around where the peak of the cam is using this method. The interrupted fly cut, together with the flexibility of the whole setup is not very restful either. I prefer CamCalc for the next try- much gentler.

3 degrees (half a turn) between each cut

The cams are made fro EN3B and case hardened. I am fortunate to a have a small stock of genuine Kasenit. The ends were covered in Tippex Rapid then the blank heated and dipped in the Kasenit before heating to bright red and quenching in water

The dappled grey is a good sign

A file skidded off nicely. The duff one (upper) and the good one polished with some wet and dry.

Rod

Have a look at this previous thread

**LINK**

I made mine, it's an interesting challenge.

Rod

p.s. Steamer1915 still seems to contribute to the forum so a PM might elicit a response

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 20/09/2022 21:52:08

40+ years ago I was regularly stripping stainless steel mesh from aluminium screen printing frames, glued with a Devcon epoxy. I used a proprietary liquid whose name escapes me but I do remember that it smelt strongly of oil of wintergreen.

Rod

A 3/8" BSW will go about 4 threads into an M10 hole which is probably enough but I have run a 3/8" BSW tap into my M10 tooling and that then works fine with a 3/8" draw bar. As Noel says, a loose fit in the thread is OK for nipping up a 2MT.

Rod

Our own Tubal Cain (Tom Walshaw) was at one time editor of the transactions of the Newcomen Society.

Rod

Cracker as always. I like your currently fashionable retro car colours - this one definitely looks like eau-de-nil.

Rod

I think we generally agree that HSS is tougher than CS and we tend to favour the former where resistance to breakage is important. However, the main advantage of HSS is retention of hardness at high temperature. If you don't need this property (and which of us does?) then possibly HQS is equally tough without the expense of retaining hot hardness.

Rod

Carbide inserts are available in a very wide range of shapes and materials. Polished, un-coated tips are often specified for aluminium and difficult metals. They are usually very sharp and quite delicate and can make fine shaving cuts as well as general turning with a fine finish in my experience. I suggest that choosing the correct grade of carbide will solve Karl's problem.

HTH,

Rod