Member postings for Ian Hewson

That’s correct, designed to take D1-3 chucks.

Just to clear this up, Myford supplied the 254s with either the cam lock spindle or non camlock spindle depending on how much you wanted to pay. The taper on both spindles for fitting the Chuck, is a D1-3 regardless of which one was supplied, the D1-3 chucks can be fitted to either spindle by removing the pins and fitting studs as mentioned earlier.

Any D1-3 Chuck will fit.

Edited By Ian Hewson on 12/06/2021 09:45:27

If I remember correctly the 254s uses standard D1-3 chucks.

Ian

Another thumbs up for JB tools, great service from Jenny and some spare tips thrown in free gratis.
first time I have used them, but not the last.

ian

A blob of blue tack on the end of a terminal driver works well also.

Hi Steve

Your post brought back memories - I served my ESI 'indentured' apprenticeship with SEEB (Electricity Board in Kent, and spent the first year at their purpose built training school (boot camp) near Dover.

I made a complete set of hand tools, and a barn type tool box to keep them in, (I still have most of them) and spent many hours during the hard labour lessons draw filing huge lumps of black metal . . but, probably like you, I also learnt to use a lathe, drill press, gas/arc welding, heat treatment, cutting, and a host of other 'workshop' techniques.

Those were the days, apprenticeships seem to have fallen by the wayside. I stayed in the industry all my working life

All that I learned, coupled with my Grandfathers teachings (he was a R&D tool maker) laid the foundation for my own retirement 'hobby', I'm lucky to have a well kitted out workshop and a passion for 'anything' metal engineering, but mostly steam models

My better half thinks I would be a 'Fred Dibnah' with a full size engine given half a chance - hmm now there's a thought !!!!

My tools made at the training workshop are still wrapped in the greased cloth I brought them home in, too much time and effort in getting them to the standard the instructors wanted to spoil them by actually using them.

We were not allowed to use machines apart from the drills, YEB did not wants us to use them. Rather a pity as the shop was full of mills, lathes and a large jig borer.

Funnyly enough my father was a toolmaker who learned his trade on cameras at Kershaws in Leeds, he worked on marking out Centurion tank turrets at Barnbow, then sowing machines special applications for Singers.

As an apprentice electrician at the YEB in 1959, we were sent for 6 months training in the apprentice shop at ROF Barnbow, Leeds.
We were told then that draw filling was bad practice and not allowed, but never told why.

One of the things I did learn there was to use a machine to do the heavy work if possible.

It was years before the penny dropped for the YEB that it was cheaper for us to use electric drills for holes than hammer and chisel. Still keep a star drill for 1/2 inch bolts to remind me.

Only problem with Blackgates is not being able to order online😟

As an apprentice electrician at the YEB part of our training was at the ROF Barnbow.

The turning instructor had a slip stone in his pocket and used it very frequently.

The parting tool I ground to try Martin’s tip was not polished or honed prior to use and was cutting freely at the end of the cut. I would not envisage any more frequent sharpening on the grindstone than any other tool.

If it parts off without dig ins and chatter I will risk a bit of sharpening.

Hi Martin

Having now got a mini lathe after my Myford 254, parting off was somewhat problematic.

I tried your grinding tip, and parting a piece of 20mm mild steel with a 2mm parting tool at 250 rpm I am pleased to say that it was very smooth, nice curly chips and no chatter.

Oil was applied with a brush, nice finish on the patted off part.

Thanks for the tip.

Ian

Bought my beam engine castings from Reeves in 2015, nice quality, would recommend them.Makes a nice engine.

Ian

on my sx2 I have a hole drilled in the drawbar cover for the sensor, and the neodium magnet just sticks to the drawbar, no glue.

Ian

Would hot hands heat packs work for you, used to use for golf for my wife.
available online.

I may be wrong, but I always understood the the registers on the spindle nose were for alignment, the thread was for holding the Chuck on only.

Or you could add a baked bean tin and pump water too and fro, as in my engine.

Had to do a screenshot as video of engine running was too large.

Ian

Edited By Ian Hewson on 31/12/2020 12:32:16

Hi Anthony

your antique soldering iron is but a youngster, I am still using my Henley Solon iron that I bought 63 years ago at Valances in Leeds. It is still going strong and is totally original apart from a thinner bit that I made just after I bought it.

Would never have guessed that I would still be using it after all these years, but it is surprising how many tools bought when young are still in use today.

Hi, Me too please.

Hi Keith

Set mine up last week, it cuts 30mm round bar with no trouble, seems a solid piece of kit.

Ian

Edited By Ian Hewson on 03/12/2020 10:22:52

Hi Martin & Novice

Thanks for your posts with tips for the saw, much appreciated, good to know the saw works fine without oil whilst cutting. Always used oil on my larger bandsaw, but from memory it had metal driving wheels without and drive bands on them to wear or perish.

Ian

Edited By Ian Hewson on 25/11/2020 09:52:29

My Aldi saw arrived today, seems a lot better than the Lidl one that was returned faulty. Could do with a support for the saw when in the raised position as it seems easy for it to fall whilst you have your hands underneath using the vice, something I will have to attend to.

The instructions say not to use a soluble coolant whilst using the saw, rubber drive bands I suppose.

What do you use for steel cutting, any suggestions, or just use dry and increase wear on the blade?

Ordered a new blade from Tuff saws as the supplied blades seem a bit coarse.

Ian