Member postings for JohnF

John, It may well be worth looking at this post before buying the Myford metric screw cutting kit -- here you need only a couple of gears !

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=125630

I have used both systems, bought the kit many years ago before the "new" simplified system was devised, now I use the new system -- OK its not exact in some cases but absolutely fine for most jobs .

John

Top one is I believe an Adept lathe the larger lower one no idea ?

John

Larry, have a look at this site very informative IMO. I have recently been researching a belt required for a combination woodworking machine, all details on the original have pond disappeared and the instruction book unbelievably tells you how to change the belt but not the size !

https://www.beltingonline.com/vee-pulleys-c-273/

John

Since you say the chuck is new I would recommend you return it to the supplier or at least speak to them !

However if you do wish to disassemble it looking at the picture on your link they appear to be similar to the Albrecht design thus the rear body and the from cone are screwed together so you need to make suitable tooling to grip the parts without damage and unscrew these first then it will probably become apparent how to remove other components.

I do have a disassembly instruction for Albrecht if you PM me with your email I will be happy to share.

John

A piece of dowel rod and cut a family wide slot say 1 1/2" long then insert some very fine emery or wet & dry plus some sponge rubber, this takes care of the taper etc and applies pressure to the emery. run in the spindle. add a little lube if you wish. Thoroughly clean the taper and Bob's your Uncle

John

Personally i have never had anything to do with the lathes in question, however would it not be prudent to contact Amadeal and ask their advice ?

Also look on Arceuro site and the "projects & articles " tab there are a couple of articles relating to the Mini Lathes they supply -- logical really they both advocate lubrication with grease. IMO any bearing [other than an air bearing] needs lubrication in some form.

John

Colin, As Michael rightly points out it depends on which riser block you want ? Assuming its the pair to raise the machine up from the bench here is a link to an old ebay sale, now finished but the photo's have a ruler shown so you could probably with some carful proportional estimates arrive at the dimensions needed, hole spacing excepted but this can be taken from your machine -- hope this helps a little

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Myford-ML10-lathe-rising-blocks-/185815558101?mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338722076&customid=&toolid=10050&nma=true&si=0r%252BtFfD5xYl6M2ZWQuBAvA5YN8o%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

John

edit -- PS I would have thought the height was of little importance ?  surely you can make them to whatever height suit you ?  But I have no knowledge of the ML10 !

Edited By JohnF on 02/04/2023 11:09:49

Hi Fulmen and welcome, not that it really matters but out of curiosity where in Norway are you ? I saved this link some time back and maybe it will be useful to you ? https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a0-bonelle-plans.6664/

Good luck with the build

John

Here are a couple of sites that may be of interest.

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/4688/21649.pdf

http://www.namco-tooling.com/coventry-dieheads-chasers.html

John

Well I am amazed ! My answer is never -- I always use manual feed and always have, indeed I don't recall any of my mentors or contemporaries in 60's onwards using power cross feed when parting off.

Of course we never had the disposable tipped tooling that's available today and to be honest although I have tried these but I much prefer the standard HSS Eclipse blades. Steady feed, don't allow the tool to dwell when stopping and starting the advance, use plenty of oil or appropriate lube.

Feel I'm out of step !!

John

As far as I am aware there are no shear pins on the Myford S7 however as Hopper says there is a woodruff key on the last gear thats on the lead screw and the lead screw on your machine passes right through the gearbox,

On earlier machines or on some retro fitted gearboxes as yours is its not necessarily so the lead screw may be in two sections but the woodruff key will still be present.  Whether your's is as per the factory, one piece L/screw it depends on the age of the gearbox you fitted but you will know either way.

John

Edited By JohnF on 22/03/2023 09:11:33

Well there are two problems, you need to follow the contour of the work and the knurls also need to be square on to the profile as well, [ assuming standard knurls]

Just an idea ! make a straight feed two wheel knurling tool that has the head articulated so it can follow the profile, thus the head and wheels swing left & right. As for the in feed to follow the contour then it's either by hand, eye & feel or make a profile follower similar to the ones where the taper turning attachment used.

Possibly an overkill for a one off ? Whether it will work I know not but my first thoughts - lets see what the team come up with

John

Really cannot see the problem and why the controversy from John Haine's post 1/25.4 = .039370078740157 thus for general workshop use use 0.03937 and multiply your mm to get inches or divide your inches to get mm -- simples !

If you want or need microns then use the whole conversion factor.

John

We went yesterday crossing the Pennines West to East, no real problems on the roads but did wonder about the Blubbehouses road however no problems other than spray and some slush. We did opt to use a 4X4 rather than a saloon car !

The show was for us somewhat disappointing in relation to the ME side, lots of excellent models and well supported by the ME societies but a lack of trade stands and there was one that never opened !

if you are into model railways then I guess it was a good show but I/we would think long and hard before going again but still wish the organiser good luck everything has to start somewhere.

Regards John

Some more photos of mine, as you will see there are several probes that can be interchanged to use on very narrow groves and to increase the usable diameter. I use either a calliper or micrometer to make the initial zero, with care they can give good accuracy.

The additional clamp is I believe so the dial gage can be used units own on a scribing block etc.

Posted by Clive foster

I'm unconvinced as to the general suitability of MT taper for mounting a Coventry Die Head. By their very nature there is significant lengthways pulling force on the head as it cuts the thread which will tend to pull it out of the MT socket.

There is no problem with using die heads with a morse taper, I have cut probably thousands of threads mainly with 1/2" or 1/4" units and never a problem.

Those with a parallel spigot are generally use on capstan lathes, the one I have and use is a 1/2" unit and to facilitate its use on my lathes made a No2 Morse taper holder with a 1" hole for the die box -- never a problem.

John

Yes a comparator for measuring internal grooves, used one many time and have one with all accessories -- I'll take some photos later.

Made or sold by Verdict, would work for bores but there are much better tools available for this.

John

Robert, I came upon this site by accident but it looks like it may be worth keeping an eye on their stock

https://www.bimtalk.co.uk/cnc-metalworking-manufacturing/?s=Clarkson+deadlock+arbor

Clarkson tooling is normal Whitworth form threads but they used whatever TPI they deemed appropriate.

John

Worth joining the Emco V10 lathe group as well -- lots of crossover from Super 11 / V10 * FB2

Some close up photo's of both your spindles would probably be useful. Assuming your replacement spindle is an original Myford product it is extremely unlikely that the thread is at fault unless it too is damaged ?

My first thoughts are to suspect the threads and registers on your various chuck backplates, particularly when they have possibly been damaged when fitting to the damaged spindle you removed ?

I would no consider using a die on the spindle either because they are hardened, making a thread gauge and a plug gauge for the register are very worthwhile projects BUT you must make them to the correct spec and be as accurate as possible !

John

By the way where in the world are you ?

Edited By JohnF on 28/02/2023 13:34:36