Member postings for Bizibilder

You used to be able to buy a hand held knurling tool that you gripped like a pair of pliers. it had three knurling wheels . Not sure if they are still available.

this thread   HERE    has a picture about 8 or 9 posts down.  This one has a screw for closing the knurls but I've seen very similar ones where a good strong hand grip will work.  Obviously with the hand grip you can vary the distance between the knurls.  

Edited By Bizibilder on 19/03/2023 09:55:56

Edited By Bizibilder on 19/03/2023 09:57:34

Icing (as in sugar icing) moulds for cakemaking?

No idea - which is not very helpful!! I got my little pot of it from GLR (now GLR Kennions) who used to buy it in bulk and make up smaller pots for us hobbyists. They no longer list it.

Just had a swift look on the web and it seems only the 500g tins are now available.

Have you checked to make sure there is nothing in the slot preventing the pinch bolts from working? A bit of swarf or scrap of metal maybe? You may thing you have tightened it but maybe just trapping the foreign object?

If you don't have a die holder there is a trick you could try - Do you have a tailstock chuck? or something with a flat end that will fit in the tailstock? Put the die in the holder in the usual way and use the tailstock "implement" to push the die along straight and square as you cut the thread.

You may need three (or more!) hands the first time you try this but it can be done - just take it slowly and you will get a much better thread. Before you start to cut the thread put a good chamfer on the end of the blank part first to give the die a chance of starting square.

Another little "help" may be to make the blank a little overlong and then turn just the end down to the core diameter of the thread you are cutting so the die is held square before it starts to cut. Machine the extended end off after the thread is cut.

Hope that helps.

Rather than a DVD (which could still be an option) why not simply a download from the website (or a dedicated site) for a single (very !!!) small one-off fee? Maybe the same system for earlier versions of ME as well. The only major problem may be paying someone to sit there and scan all the magazines in.  A small charge per volume would allow you to download the "words and music" for any series of articles that you required for your latest project.  After all ME and MEW are a vast repository of information that is currently only available to those with collections of magazines going back several decades!

Edited By Bizibilder on 18/02/2023 10:05:08

Double ended caliper.  lots on ebay, Amazon, Proops, RDG tools etc

Edited By Bizibilder on 16/02/2023 16:02:12

When you next login you should see a little "remember me" box just below your password box - click that to prevent having to login every time.

Nice lathe by the way, I had an ML10 about 25 years ago before going "Super 7". it was a really nice, capable little machine.

Are you sure the end caps are for plastic tubing? it sounds like they may be for steel tube as used in desks and tables etc.

I always find this method is pretty good for estimating "time to build":

Estimate the number of components in the whole project (including nuts and bolts!). Say it comes out to be 200. Call that 200 hours. So 200 hours at, for example, 10 hours per weekend would give 200/10 or 20 weekends. I'd round that up to six months work.

Edited By Bizibilder on 23/01/2023 10:20:08

It is what the overwhelming majority of buyers want. Simples.

"Plastic Padding" is now marketed under the "Teroson" brand - same stuff just a different name, still made by Henkel.

What size of material do you intend cutting? Sheet metal (say up to 2-3 mm) requires a very different tool to one for cutting thicker plate and/or rod, flats and tubes.

Like many I use a 6 x 4 bandsaw and find it does pretty much everything with the exception of thin sheet for which I use a bench shear.

You can either use mild steel and treat it by heating to bright red and allowing to cool VERY slowly (the old way was to put it in the embers of a fire and leave it overnight to cool - you may have this facility?). Or to use soft iron which can be obtained fron school laboratory suppliers in bars 1/2" diameter and about 8" long quite cheaply. Soft iron flat bar is obtainable but with some difficulty - usually the suppliers are US based and you have to consider the postage etc.

If you google "clock oil" you will find several. Cousins, Meadows and Passmore (closed at the moment apparently) John Wardle clocks

Thanks to you both - I think I will bore the first inch or so and finish with the reamer. The reamer can continue through the rest of the hole and follow its own path as this is only clearance for the drawbar. The conical seating at the front end will then be done as this is the main "alignment" surface of the whole thing.

I have almost completed the spindle components for my Bonelle T&C grinder but am stuck as to how to finish the 5/16" hole through the spindle. The spindle is more or less exactly the same as that of the Quorn. The through hole is drilled (letter N) and I will be setting the spindle in the lathe to machine the bore and conical seating in situ as suggested by Prof Chaddock.

In his book he says "bore the first 1 1/4" with a small boring tool" and "you can bring this hole to final size with a d-bit or reamer" then "finish the hole with a 5/16 drill or reamer".

Its the last bit that is confusing me - Or am I overthinking this and should simply bore (to correct any eccentricity of the important part of the hole) and then ream to finish this part to size - continuing to ream right through in order to "clear the rest of the hole to allow the drawbar to pass".

Any hints from someone who has done this already would be most gratefully received.

There is little point in backing out an update as MS will simply reinstall it. You should be able to click through the screen asking you to open a MS account - whatever you do don't "sign up" if you don't want one. There is absolutely no need to have an account.

You can disable Cortana easily enough - google how to do it and follow the instructions. You can delete it but MS will simply reinstall it again! I also suggest you switch from Bing as your preferred search engine and strongly recommend using anything other than MS Edge for the internet! - Google Chrome is a good alternative.

Once you are sorted have a look in settings for all the privacy switches that you should also disable to prevent MS farming your data.

Oops! Did my sums the wrong way round - meant 0.8mm - thanks Ian

10mm x 1.25mm pitch is very close - maybe its that?