Member postings for DC31k

Do you have a Tormek in your woodworking kit? That would do the trick.

Sanding would work with care. Apply to the disk for maybe one second and then dip in some water.

If the maximum you want to remove from each side is 2mm, use a file.

Specifically, use a coarse file for the first 1.5mm and a fine file for the remainder.

Clamp the spring steel between two larger, stiffer pieces of metal with the line to which you will file a tiny bit (the thickness of a sheet of paper) above the clamping metal.

If you are confident, use a disk or belt sander. Glue the steel to a block of wood to make it easier to hold. Be careful not to overheat it.

It is not usual to quote tpi for a BA thread, primarily because it is generally assumed they would be die cut rather than screwcut; secondarily because BA is a metric pitch. Thirdly, the pitch progression of the thread series follows a geometric mathematical series leading to numbers that are difficult to produce with change gears.

The slotted front plate screw for the 1/2" head is given as 3BA.

3BA is 0.9^3 = 0.729mm pitch which is 34.8 tpi.

With Rocol, you are paying for an extensive marketing department.

Any neat cutting oil will be 95% or more the same formulation.

ArcEuro sell RockOil's version.

Random searches turned up these:

CT90 (I have used their aerosol one and it is acceptable)

Sherwood STD (from Zoro). Price looks good.

Morris MCT (I have used this and it is acceptable)

Look to the smaller, independent oil companies, e.g Rye oils, Westway, Smith and Allen, all through eBay. The product is sold by everyone; the difficulty is finding it in less than 205 litre multiples.

Buying in 5 litre quantity is a lot cheaper than 500ml.

In a case like this, you have to ask what commercial incentive would exist for someone to produce such a device.

A standard 30 INT to Morse adaptor is used for holding drills, reamers, etc, which have a tang on them and thus the adaptor is made to accommodate the tang.

People will not make things they cannot sell and your use case is unusual to say the least.

Since a Morse taper is non-self-releasing, why do you you feel a drawbar is necessary? What forces will be on your boring head that will encourage it to pull out of its seating? It is not a milling cuttter whose cutting geometry is such as to pull it into the work.

You say the flats interfere with the drawbar, but I guess that is with respect to the 3/8" drawbar. Could you not bush the boring head and use an M6 drawbar that will pass the flats (2 Morse has 1/4 A/F according to diagrams I have seen)?

Chuck up the adaptor you have in a lathe and poke a 10mm carbide mill down from the top end to create the space you want.

FB2 English here:

https://passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/t966-emco-fb2

Emcomat 8.4 German instructions and additional multi-lingual parts manual:

https://www.emco.or.at/index.php/download/emco-bedienungs-und-serviceanleitungen/drehmaschinen

People have suggested using a straight shank drill chuck but there is no reason that straight shank could not have a Clarkson thread on the end of it and centre in the end of it. Then changing to the drill chuck would be the same as swapping a cutter of the same diameter. It would lose a lot of head height.

You could also use the side lock bushes suggested above (or use loctite) to convert your most-used drill bits to Clarkson compatible.

Even if you later change to ER, these modifications will be compatible with the new purchase and will save time under both regimes.

Gloster Tooling also sell the Eazi-change system if you want to compare range and prices.

Consider investing in a drill chuck on a straight shank, the diameter to match your most-used milling collet. Hard work though if you do not have a power knee.

When the metric conversion set is fitted, you lose the fine feed capability of the lathe.

Please see Brian Wood's reply in this thread:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=133063

Please also see this document:

https://www.haythornthwaite.com/Myford%20Metric%20Conversion.pdf

If you only ever want to cut threads with the lathe, make it permanent; if you want to retain sliding or surfacing auto-feeds, it has to be temporary.

If you are using an indicator, instead of measuring only one turn of the handwheel, measure as many turns as the indicator travel will allow.

That will do two things: average out any local errors and confirm if the errors accumulate.

You could also set the compound parallel to the cross slide and wind one in and the other out (after having taken up backlash) and check that net movement is zero. That might eliminate the effects of angular error referred to above.

Edited By DC31k on 08/06/2023 21:33:49

Program a conservative ramp time AND use the mechanical brake on the machine and the two will fight each other.

Any input you make to this discussion concerning ramp times and braking resistors will be meaningless and could even be misleading without including the mechanical brake as part of that input (which could be a simple as saying 'do not use the mechanical brake at all'.

A manual is here:

https://bulkman3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/HY01D523B-VFD-Manual.pdf

On the bottom left of the diagram in the original post is the 'multi-input'. The bottom half of page 20 of the manual covers this. To make the multi-inputs accept commands, parameter 001 needs to be set to 'external terminal' (bottom of page 26).

Each input pin has 32 possible settings that define its function. You program the pin to do what you want it to do and then connect an appropriate switch to the pin.

Page 37 of the manual is a good start on the wiring diagram, using three of the six multi-inputs. Connect the E-stop to one of the unused three remaining ones.

Take a look at commercial fireguards. Do you see any that are made of chocolate?

Now take a look at commercial ER collet chucks and see from which material they are made.

Hypodeemic nerdle and syringe.

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Coat a flat surface with water-soluble paint. Press the item onto it like a stamp. That will cover the non-filled bits with paint. Splash non-water soluble stuff around until the trenches are full. Wash off original paint and any overspill. Test on non-critical item first. The 'real deal' stuff is called 'masking fluid'

What is above the proposed shelving?

If there is a way to support it midspan, that will help a lot. Could be as simple as a piece of rope tied to the ridge timber.

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The 4" x 2" timber and plywood has a structural depth of over 100mm. That might be a consideration if headroom is limited.

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The 200kg person hanging on the middle will give a conservative over estimate of the deflection as the 200kg load is distributed evenly over the 3m x 0.6m area, and shared between more than one support.

Another possibility is to send the part the nut screws onto (the male thread) to the person making the nut. If they have the ability to make the nut, there is a high chance they will be able to ID the thread.

There is also some chance that the thread will be used elsewhere on the fan, so that might be another source of a male thread to send away for analysis.

What leads you to that conclusion?

In the photos the OP has posted, the part looks a little too metallic for that to be a possibility.

Edited By DC31k on 26/05/2023 17:17:53

Bash it back the opposite way, just less than the first time.

It should not necessarily be pushed up to a hard stop (i.e to speak of its location in such absolute terms is incorrect). It is better positioned in a way that the chuck key meshes adequately and the action is smooth.

Channel your inner Japanese carpenter setting his plane and enlightenment will follow.

There is a picture of the collared adaptor in the mig-welding link. Knowing the major diameter of the taper, you can scale the rest of the dimensions from the photo.

Discussion of this item here:

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/boxford-vsl-spindle-adapter.109539/

Precis of the findings there: the lathe's spindle taper angle is the same as MT3 but the diameters are larger.

Same info., slightly differently formatted here:

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/Boxford%20Collet%20Adapter.html

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The length of the piece is influenced by the length of the 5C collet going into it. If it is too long (unless it has a counterbore), the draw tube will not screw on.

Edited By DC31k on 23/05/2023 20:01:36