Member postings for Lee Rogers

I like your gentle approach to the job. I wouldn't be gentle with that motor though, lose it . Hoover motors are nasty noisy things and the Murad is rigid enough to take a 1hp motor easily.

The early worm didn't have a great day.

Do unto others quick before they do unto you.

Yes beats me too , not to mention the nasty fumes. I use Halfords hydraulic jack oil which is also my oil for the Admiralty Drummond lathe main bearings.

My farher was as fine a draughtsman as you will ever meet . Artist? No. Precision in drawing ,carving ,painting, pottery or for that matter my own trade ,cooking, is not art ,it is craft.

Also for my part the idea that cooking is an art is usually an excuse for not being able to repeat the job 30 times a night week in week out under pressure. God save me from all the artists and creatives I've worked with over the years. There is no shame in fine craft , for many it is greater than art.

Art conveys a message , the message may be disputed and it may be made and conveyed with little skill or craftsmanship. Thats what makes it art.

Welcome from sunny Suffolk . I'm sure we could lend you a bit of fine weather if your in need.

That is astonishing. If anyone needs to ask why they've missed the point.

As has been said above a good look on the lathes.co.uk site will identify which ML you have . The write up there is a long and detailed read well up to the usual Tony Griffiths standard.

Your not the first to have found the ML 1-2-3-4 series of lathes to be a bit of a conundrum. Letters and numbers cast into the bed are foundry numbers and not to be relied on for id purposes. Serial numbers although better organised than Drummonds are to be viewed with suspicion. Best of luck with your lathe , many a fine project has been completed on these little lathes , just stay within it's capabilities and you will do fine.

Another thumbs up for the Chronos Glanz tools , not the cheapest not the dearest but far better at the job than my first economy set which are long gone the way of all cheap tools.

ML 1/2/3/4 identifying always throws up a few curves . The lathes.co.uk page has a very in depth feature on the entire range and it's evolution. Don't get into serial numbers they will fry your brain, the cast in numbers / letters are foundry marks and are meaningless from an id view. Other numbers on brass plates or the bed may or may not be Myford origin, company owners often put their own asset numbers on. The final curve is owner mods, details like pulleys , hand wheels etc are often found to have been changed.

Don't worry about the slack changewheels , tight ones are more a problem.As a companion to your Harrison it's potentially a great little lathe if used within it's limitations of size and rigidity. Above all enjoy !

You might consider joining one of the Myford lathe groups . FB , and other platforms, there are quite a few. All are a great resource of knowledge and sales/swaps. Myford people are generally a nice bunch.

There was more to Faraday than just engineering he was something of a social reformer too. He became aware that many of the lower paid workers at the institute were ill nourished and went without a decent lunch so upon his direction employees at the Institute had a free lunch every day. I think in later years it was heavily subsidised A practice that only ceased recently when the tax man got his teeth into the benefit. Great man, MF not the tax man.

Dave , your spot on with your patient explanation in response to my mini rant. Just don't get me started on router or airplane.

Why is it refered to as 3D ? It's flat so is it not isometric projection? Another dumming down by techies in ''Merica ?

Chris ,I'm sure it hasn't escaped your notice but the common thread here is that Parkinsons will take a variety of courses in different people. Diagnosis is vital since there are many other neuro conditions that may initially present as Parkinsons, so good to know that you are in good hands on that score. All the best to you and keep going with the spanners.

So according to wikipedia '' the term GMT should not be used for anything requiring precision''.

So the next time I trim half a foot too much from the Privet hedge I'll call it 6 inches and all will be fine?

Yes both groups are a mine of good info and friendly too. The facebook group are an easy going and theres no such thing as a stupid question . As for your new lathe , make sure that you know what should be with it. We regularly see lathes advertised as complete but lacking changewheels, backgear and all manor of other smaller parts. Be wary of a machine thats been run direct from the motor without a countershaft, it's a bearing killer. The Drummond M became the Myford M and fair to say the Myford M was the best of the bunch being fully developed to include a few usefull extras, and as said by Rob Mcsweeny all described on Tony Griffiths Lathes.co.uk site. Good luck and above all enjoy.

Buy a jewelers loup to use for tool inspection and get the edge as crisp as you can but don't get hung up on precise angles. If the book says 17deg ,14 to 20 will probably be ok 90% of the time . A tiny radius with a hand stone is as much as I ever do. Above all enjoy the day when you turn out a perfect finish with a tool that you made .

Dehumidifier as above works for me. Time is tight for many of us but I also stick my head round the door and give it all a quick spray over with WD or similar every 3 or 4 days as required, no need to make a mission of the task just do it regularly.

Round bed , Pre B, Btype and M are all different. Your best bet is to keep an eye out for a donor lathe .

This is how I ended up with 6 1/2 B types but in the end it is an economical way of stocking up on spares .

theres a healthy market for anything you don't need.