Member postings for not done it yet

It might say 4HP but B&S rated their engines on a ‘flash’ basis, not what the engine would provide when running continuously under power.

They continued in that way until people noticed that a 3HP engine from Honda out-performed a 5HP `B&S.

The pulley on the motor, which I assume to be original, has a V-groove about 1/8" wide at the bottom.

A V belt does not run on the bottom of the pulley groove. What is needed is the cross section of the belt (width at the outer edge).

Not a ‘lathe-work’ book per se, but a/the book by member Brian Wood seems to be a useful tome (but neither particularly large or weighty!) for sorting out all sorts of thread cutting settings/scenarios. I’ve not read it but his book regularly receives a hearty recommendation on the forum.

Any resolution to this thread? Soon be a month since started and seemingly no working fix. Or is the warning of not buying cheap (possibly sub-standard) kit, from the likes of vevor, the best advice - for all those reading this thread and considering purchasing similar kit?

Quoted as $100,000 price tag. Guessing US dollars.

Send the ad to blue heeler? It would make a good addition to his collection of toys.

Well done with the pic, DC31K. I would suggest there would definitely be a wearing part under the grub screw - acting like a gib for alignment. It may still be in there but likely, as you say, needing a brass insert under the screw.

It’s (currently) had 153 youtube views and 6 comments (only 13 hours, so perhaps check back at some later point). But I expect the suppliers will carry on getting his rave reviews of their products, however efficient, or inefficient these toys might be.

This ix where engine efficiency is claimed as 100% - even if it can only just about drive itself.🙂🙂🙂 Ha ha ha. At least the usual complimentor has not added his plaudits - well, not as yet.

Ask Amadeal? If nothing, ask them for a sensible referral?

Arc option is likely good, but depending on your location, collection from the other mini-lathe suppliers might be of benefit to the wallet. Personally, I might check out Arc, Warco, Axminster, Chester, etc and choose one that appeals, or is close enough to collect (if the cost is important). Google is likely your best friend.

Other options might be ebay, gumtree, twitface marketplace. Likely not new, but depends on what you actually mean by ‘off the shelf’.

No, I am not. If he was in a 60Hz region, he would have been quoting 1800rpm for his 4 pole motor, not 1400rpm.

Neither motor type will/should ‘stall out’ if operated at less than full load. At least one of my VFDs will operate at up to 400Hz. Some high speed drives use frequencies at those highs.

I expect the rotor and bearing assembly are likely identical for either the 2 or 4 pole motor, so motor speed will not be an issue with the 1425 motor.

Ep90 gear oil? Do be careful that it doesn't contain extreme pressure additives that eat yellow metals.

I wasn’t aware that there was any form of oil pump in those Fairey overdrives. Are they not just splash lubricated? I had two fitted to my Series lll - one always ran very hot and its replacement was a far better unit (ran cool and drive selection was far smoother).

Clues:

There are some that burn dried turds for the energy content?

From a newspaper column (Mirror, back in ‘21):

‘A kilogram of cow poo can produce enough electricity to power a vacuum cleaner for five hours - so dairy cooperative Arla's herd of 460,000 could fuel 1.2 million UK homes‘

Chewing on coal wouldn’t make us fat?

A calorie is 4.18 Joules, in sensible SI Units.

Edited By not done it yet on 13/07/2023 08:14:11

Quite right, Frank. I wouldn’t have thought there were as many (as have answered) on the forum.😆😆😆

Don’t forget that multi-phase generators produce a fraction of the power (eventually a DC current) in each phase winding - meaning economies on winding wire, easier dissipation of thermal energy, etc.

A fusee is appropriate for spring energised clocks, not gravity powered ones. The pendulum will require a constant input to keep it swinging consistently and accurately (hopefully).

To all intents and purposes, the period of a pendulum depends only on its length, but it does need some energy input to keep it swinging at a reasonable amplitude.

It also may depend on how the load is distributed? How do you think you might possibly overload it?

Had you known as much as you do, after this thread, you would have been able to easily sort it yourself.

Yes, it will take a lifetime to learn as much as possible but not to become good at it - after you set up to cut a 100 different threads you will be sufficiently proficient. We (well, most of us) never stop learning.

A ‘win’ because you have gained more experience - that error/mistake/short-coming is now behind you - and you also know about lubrication. Oil will flow to the bearing surfaces easier than grease, won’t block lubrication channels (think here the change gears) and does not leave a deposit which could collect all sorts of abrasive chips/dust (think here, again, of the gear train).

There are always exceptions - I have an engine where the big end plain bearing is greased - but it runs at relatively low speed (300rpm or so?) and was likely greased by the operator just grabbing the greaser cap, on the end of the crank shaft, momentarily while the engine was running!

You are a hobbyist, so timing should not necessarily be a priority. All of us have made and then remade parts because of errors/mistakes/etc. After several practice sessions, your speed will improve. The only timing issue is generally that of the order of cutting the surfaces - careful planning is often required to make the job easier or even possible.

No apprentice would be qualified after only two months of the course - and they would be working/learning full time.

Just remember, there is usually a simple reason and (often) an easy fix to most problems. My advice is to always buy reasonably good quality kit, so you know it is ‘operator fault’ when things don’t work out as expected. The ‘buy cheap, buy twice’ is often demonstrated as a good maxim to adhere to. That ‘few quid extra’ is often repaid after only a short time.

I did wonder whether the lathe was up to cutting, with a one degree offset. There is also, of course, the possibility that the one degree is out of expected tolerance? Perhaps the size of the broach is too much for the lathe? Everything needs to be sufficiently rigid for these cuts, which might be regarded as ‘heavy’ for an aged, small machine.

It’s a one way ram, so unlikely to be the actual ram if it is not leaking oil. That leaves leak-back through the pumping mechanism. Fresh O rings should be a few pence as a fix - unless the castings have corroded. It is likely the lowering valve that is not seating properly and may need fettling (with valve grinding paste?).

It is worth investigating, at least - as nowt to lose. It may only need a good clean. Good luck.

Possible clues are the drilling in the boss (which may house a grub screw?) and the paint(?) missing on the end of the pulley (maybe indicating a large washer was there?), the keyway and key - there might be more.

One thing that is unlikely to be good news is hitting it with a hammer! A suitable puller is the obvious ‘weapon-of-choice’ for safe removal (as I doubt there is a hydraulic press available).

I wondered what the lines, on the end of the motor shaft, at 60 degree intervals were for…