Member postings for not done it yet

Are stainless bolt threads rolled, like many other materials? If they are, the threads will be more durable than turned items, which is the usual case?

used only on certain jobs.

Maybe, but if you intend to remove and re-chuck a part, the 4 jaw is by far the better choice for concentricity on remounting - if one can master the technique easily or have the time to fiddle until it is right.

So it depends... I would say start with a good 3 jaw if your needs are simple. Otherwise, you will find, as many have, that the 4 jaw independent is often the choice (mine is - because it is there ready and waiting. By the time I have changed chucks, the part is centred adequately).

As above, re historical operations - turning cylindrical items was often done between centres for best concentricity, particuarly if removing from, and refitting to, the lathe. But fallen out of use for various reasons (modern chucks are better than a worn out old 'un, no spinning drive dogs to keep away from, etc.).

I bought a 4 jaw self centering chuck, as well (for the rotary table). But I would not go out and buy another - they will only chuck properly on perfectly round bar, per eg.

Join your local Model Eng. Soc. and practise with a 4 jaw independent, if you have the opportunity or time. Hands on experience is worth far more than a forum reply.

If I now had a choice of only one chuck, it would be the 4 jaw independent variety. But that is after 20 years of tinkering.

Not got one handy, but the bull gear weighs over 2kg so I would not expect it to weigh less than than 2kg.

would it be crappy cheap rubbish ?

Certainly cheap. Lightweight and low powered perhaps, but with a three year warranty I doubt it is either of your other suggestions. If it is crappy rubbish, then return it when it fails.

Certainly not a bargain if you don't really want, or need, one!

How many certificated taps have you got?

Hopefully none from China. But I do buy my threaded items (and materials) from a reputable source, where they do have a record of the supply chain, for anything where it is important quality-wise. I pay more but am confident the parts are what was ordered, not a close-ish approximation.

Obviously easier to check the nuts and bolts (or threaded rod) for size, if there is a problem - and if the rod checks out under size at one point and different at another, it is not too dificult to conclude that the rod is not the best quality.

Somehow I doubt if it was the same rod (that threaded in OK) which would not thread into the second hole. If it was, the tapping must have been at fault? Perhaps the tap was worn out after that first use?

One or more of the three items is the wrong size.

Either your tap, the nut or the threaded rod.

You need to find out which and then buy the correct sized item(s). All will be fitting properly, then.

I suspect you are buying uncertificated items as far as dimensions are concerned - probably cheap stuff made in China.

Alternatively, but not to exclude putting up some pics, is to check out the lathesdotcodotuk site. There will be photos of some examples on there.

Your risk if you want your house flooded. The cylinder may be weak in that area and just waiting to fail in a big way! Is this a gravity system or at mains pressure?

As far as temperature is concerned, I've yet to see a hot water cylinder that is hot at the bottom. Water is a very good insulator.

OK Dave,

Let's just assume petrol is octane (clearly not, but an average hydrocarbon).

From that data, each car produced 5.600 tonnes of CO2 (ignoring the minor constituents)

If pure octane C8 H18 (RMMof 114), that equates to 5.6/114*18 tonnes of hydogen

= 0.88 tonnes .

That hydrogen combines with oxygen to form water (H2O has an RMM of 18), so 0.88/2*18 = 7.9 tonnes. And you or m 100 is suggesting that water from 35kg of hydrocarbons (equivalent to 50kg of water if it were octane - but it won't be) is a "considerable" increase? That amounts to a 0.63% increase. Hardly significant. I just asked my wife what she thought would be a "considerable increase" and she replied "more than 20%".

Of course those results are hypothetical and I would guess the 50kg water equivalent for 35kg of HC is 'vastly' overestimated! Catalytic converters were around long before year 2000, so real results would be very different - but no considerable increase in water emissions whichever way you want to look at it. Still hoping m 100 will explain his statement.

The Morris Minor forum was down for over a month, I think, when they changed ISP or servers or something. It took ages before some of the previous regular posters returned.

Martin 100 said:

A petrol vehicle with a catalyst will, by the ongoing inherent chemical reactions have considerably more 'water' in the exhaust stream than non-cat equipped vehciles.

Really? Perhaps you might explain the reasoning behind that statement? As I see it, the water in the exhaust is either tthat which goes in with the combustion air (a relatively small but variable amount) or from the hydrogen in the fuel. Catalytic converters only convert a very minor amount of hydrocarbons to water and carbon dioxide, thus only a tiny extra amount of water would be generated, if any, by a vehicle with a catalytic converter.

The differences in fuel molecular make up would certainly change the proportion of water (shorter carbon-carbon chained hydrocarbons contain a higher percentage of hydrogen), but that has naff all to do with the catalytic converter? Further, as cars are generally more fuel efficient these days, the gross exhaust emissions will be lower - again, nothing to do with the cat. Enter alcohols,added to the fuel, and that changes things too, but nowt to do with the cat.

As regards internal exhaust corrosion, the removal (at the refining stage) of sulphur componds (more noticeable for diesel fuel, of course) and conversion of NOx to nitrogen means there should be far less acidic radicals in the exhaust stream. That a cat needs to run hotter than a non-catalytic exhaust (if it gets up to temperature - see post on cold cats/short journeys) combines to give less sulphuric and nitric acids being inside the exhaust. So there is one reason why exhausts last longer these days. I would think the higher exit temps of exhaust gases, since unleaded fuels were formulated, has more bearing on the problem, than the actual catalytic converter.

I look forward to your explanation for the above statement.

Did you find these?

http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/24.html

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=628.0

Delivery from china? Do check that VAT and customs collection charges do not apply (they would make it £80, if starting at £60).

Do they offer such a good money back warranty as Lidl? Somehow, I doubt it!

Higher amperage, but 30% duty cycle is not so clever.

I will stick with this one. Handy for lightness and portability. My smallish local had about 20 on display, so expecting a good demand?

Do you mean the arbor support from the overarm? Nothing special. A slide-way to fit the overarm, a gib to lock it in position, or a slit and pinch bolt to secure it. A hole on centre line at the height of the horizontal drive and a bearing to suit. An oilite bearing may well be adequate but something tougher may be needed for heavy radial loading. A means of lubrication can easily be devised, I would think.

Don't restrict to 2B. 2 and 2A will be the same, I would expect.

The filter capacitor on our dishwasher gave up, after about 12 years, recently. Took the mcb trip out once, then blew the fuse and tripped the mcb. It was blackened, but only tripped the mains occasionally (took a couple of weeks to determine the cause of the trips) and was not too expensive to replace. One went bang in a washing machine several years ago - that one was obvious!

I doubt it would affect anything down-line, unless flying debris. If in doubt, reconnect without the filter to test, if you were not going to repair the controller if duff.

Yes, a Mklll head. There were two versions. I've not seen the earlier one, except in pics, but think that may be the better one (the later one was cheaper to produce?) but I am just guessing.

I would think that the 2A would be tight for a decent sized rotary table for cutting gears with the horizontal. Even my 2B table seems small and I could do with another 30mm long travel - always need more!

But if it suits and it is not worn, go for it. Definitely a better deal than a chinese vertical-only of the same size.

Mklll heads have, on occasion, made megabucks on epay. One went for over £600 earlier this year! More sensible would have been a little over half that, but auctions can be a bit of a scrap between a couple of bidders who 'must have'.

Horizontal as well as vertical?

They benefit greatly from the addition of a riser block.

The vertical head, if a good Mklll is likely worth as much, or more, than the rest of it.

Not so desirable ad the 2B, which has more vertical table travel and stronger knee, along with easier adjustment (from the front) and larger table.

Check out completed items on epay? If it is local, it might be better than a distant purchase? 2A machines come up for sale more often than 2B variants, so relatively plenty around. Still a useful machine and likely better value than a (newer) chinese import. It is worth what you are prepared to pay for it.

Journeyman is spot on. I have posted this more than once. I bought a 'set' and regretted it. I will never use the type of knurling tool, per eg (scissor type are far superior). The parting off tool may not be the right width, matetial or something. The boring bar tool may not be required with a sleeve or a V for the bar you already have. That said, if you have a mill, more tool holders are not that much of a problem....

Hand scratched might be a good term? I would be very careful that the apparent 'refurbisment' hides an underlying wear/accuracy issue.

I don't think I would touch it unless the overall accuracy was proven. It might be OK, but it might be a dog. Look for other signs of abuse, elsewhere, is my advice. I would expect you to find other abuse or considerable wear if you start to look deeper than those scratch marks.

Separation? does it do plasma cutting or sumfink??

Not according to the blurb, but that is not to say it could not be converted I suppose...

It has an indicated duty cycle of 60% @ full current and 100% @ 62A. Protected by a thermal overheat trip which presumably resets itself (but switching the supply will bring on the 'run' light but it will not weld).

Welding mask is not as bad I I have encountered, but is frankly rubbish. Yes, it will work but it will be kept as a 'looker on' mask. No disposable protective cover for the welding glass - they just say replace if scratched/spatte

red.

The earth clamp is up to normal naff standard, a little better than a cheap set of halford jump leads but not useful for anything more than a mickey mouse operation, I would suggest. I daresay I will change both the earth clamp and the elecrode holder before long (just got to be careful of the warranty, I suppose).

It indicates it will weld 2.5mm electrodes - but not for long at a time, perhaps.

I bought some 2mm rods to try it (currently £3 a kilo at lidl), as my smallest rods are 3.2mm.

I might have a play with it later today, if I have any charged cells for my auto welding hood.

Not a single paragraph inserted, so not as I keyed it in.  Sorry chaps, but out of my control!!

Edited By not done it yet on 11/05/2017 13:19:07