Member postings for Dave Halford

Just had to go out and check mine.

Thankfully it's genuine

Its got Workzone moulded into the case an' everything

Edited By Dave Halford on 16/01/2018 17:24:28

I use the Osborn system, the spanner is overkill and the collet needs to be no more tighter than the chuck

Stop it!!

Ouch! Must try reading harder

Mount a three inch horizontal type cutter vertically on an arbour and clamp the work to an angle plate.

Thats was what I paid for mine

Proper heavy

These are industrial machines bought by companies. We do not have that sort of resource available to us.

Therefore I think everyone on here has improvised.

Engine Cranes,

These need the legs to go under the load so you need the jib at nearly max length, you can get decent ones, this is mine here https://www.workshopping.co.uk/shop.php?sec=prod&prod=WF10

that gets you 700kg lift at full stretch - note the price.

They do not like turning corners loaded.

​Make sure any slings or ropes cannot slip as all the jerking as you wheel it around will test that. It also helps if the pallet is the small type.

Skoots,

​Don't let them trip up on an obstacle, the load wants to continue so always make sure you are behind it so you can watch all the sticky out bits bend and or snap off safely.

Good luck

Sorry Ady, but that's a Birmingham screwdriver.

Could be coolant or dust got in the scale, does the seal strip work properly?

We wont go back to the moon until there either a money reason or national pride makes someone find the money.

Please be careful with the definition of 'fire bricks'

Do not use the bricks sold in some old ironomgers to line the side of a fireplace. They soak up heat like house bricks (I bought some)

Thermalite / celcon are insulators and very light weight.

I've run a 3/8" horizontal cutter in alloy at about 1/8" depth using a Centec 2, it didn't mind too much.

You don't want more than one tooth cutting at once especially with steel needing twice the power.

Don't forget the Centec 2 has the same size mast as the 2B, just shorter.

Hope the plate is black steel, otherwise it will banana as Howard says.

Long live the Daffodil.

Use the dividing plates, it's very easy.

Just did my first gear - 16dp 90 tooth. Use the online calculator, set the depth of cut to just enough to mark the blank and pretend to cut the gear. When you end up back at the start on the same mark, do it again with the proper depth of cut. Just make sure the finger relationship doesn't move.

I was surprised how easy it was.

just takes a while

Pass it on, I have an old T&LM and when I get the back gear replaced on my Rockwell 10" the T&LM will go on ebay as I need the space.

Only use I can think of is perhaps leave it set up for boring work, the tee slot table would help with that.

I Have a Centec 2A It was a bit noisy taking a decent cut.

I thought, I've nipped up all the gibs then backed them off tiny bit, locked the non movers, why make such a din?

Then I noticed that the oil film between the table top and knee joint was moving. A quick retighten and it went quiet and just cut.

Mine sits on 4 " wheels - they don't move.

I would suspect that your gib strips are looser than you think. Try locking the cutting axis till you can't move it, then back it off till it just moves and see what happens to the cut.

Looks just like my copy too

Ah, not that sort of nurse then.

Have you rung them?

Dave,

Popular engine designs all have one thing in common - they look good, if they are ugly why build them?

A new design needs some artistry put into the look of the thing or it wont have mass market (or any) appeal.