Member postings for Daggers

Steve,

it does not show fitting.

My guess is that the first grub screw is used to tighten on to the oil gallery, this looks like a tube with a number of cut outs. And when this tube is locked the second grub screw is run down to the first grub screw to lock it in position, just as you would use a lock nut.

john

I have looked at the headstock drawing and it shows the hole in the headstock fitted with two grub screws for retaining the headstock oil channel. The other hole seems to show an oil nipple fitted, presumably for lubrication.

If you would like to see what is involved measuring and making Dickson tool holders have a look at Jon’s Workshop on youtube he goes through measuring and manufacture, might be of some interest.

Type in “Jon’s workshop tool post” in Youtube

Note— did try to used the Youtube embed button but the instructions shown do not match my Youtube.

Not too sure if you have seen it but there is a old 43/4” gauge loco in the Station Road Steam archive. Search for “antique tender engine”. Might be or interest.

Welcome to the forum.

I have had my Super Seven for a number of years and have not used reverse mainly due to the chuck being screwed on to the spindle nose. When run in reverse there is the chance of unscrewing the chuck. If you ever do need reverse please be very careful if using a chuck or backplate. A collet would be safer but just be careful.

A number of years ago my motor burnt out and i bit the bullet and changed to a three phase motor and vfd. The cost was similar to a quality single phase motor but it has transformed the lathe machining performance.

I had similar problems having the example exercises on the same pc. I found that a cheap tablet with the exercise pdfs loaded and placed next to the pc worked well.

I the past i have fabricated a machine base from 6mm plate with a frame of rectangular bar steel 20x10, used edge on. With a couple of cross brace pieces from the same material. I did not have a welder so used 6mm countersunk hex screws through top plate into the rectangular bar.
It was a compromise but worked well.

If large material is not available or too expensive then fabrication can be useful.

Best of luck.

Welcome Fulmen.

Aways a warm welcome to a fellow machinist from anywhere in the world.

Ask your questions and there is always help and advice.

Look forward to seeing you progress.

I retro fitted a gearbox to my S7 and as the instructions stated had to trim the length of the leadscrew. When fitting the drive gear the woodruff key was there. But i did notice this in the Myford fitting instructions with regard to fitting the leadscrew gear No.168 …….with driving pins or woodruff key……….

This made me wonder if on some of the leadscrew variants the drive was with pins?

I also give a vote to Alibre Atom.

I took advantage of the free trial, worked through the free training manual then purchased the package.

This was about 10 months ago, has worked very well with no issues.

I have managed to draw almost a fully detailed tender loco with few problems. Very pleased with the result.

Hi, Jons Workshop on youtube has a similar machine and has posted a number of videos shown modifications bot large and small. Might be worth a look if you have not already seen them. This link is for his latest modification but there are others on his channe.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0Vhhmr4B_RWbb2ArG2MNKYvxtmbDoZ5W

Don’t know if it helps but EKP sell a small tub of CT90 tapping paste, been using it for a while and it works well.

Try contacting knife making suppliers such as www.english-handmade-knives.co.uk they list red fibre sheet up to 3mm and black up to 6mm, although the 6mm is at the moment out of stock. But it might be worth a call as they also sell G10 which might do the job. You could also try bonding two 3mm thick strips to make 6mm.

Welcome to the forum John.

you have a nice setup over there, how about some photos of your work or even better a few photos, posts of one of your builds.

All the best from Portsmouth “Old Hampshire”

Hi Wade,

always great to welcome someone from outside of the UK and a fellow car tinkerer.

Recently purchased some 3mmx60mm long pins from ebay, they came from Zoro tools UK and are available for £3 for 5 incl post. Zoro are also online.

One of my first jobs in the DO was creating all of the front panel artworks for most of the UK TVs. Names like Marconiphone, Ultra, Ferguson, DER, Radio Rentals etc. The artworks were created on Bristol Board using a combination of indian ink & Letraset at 4:1. These artworks were photographed in-house and silk screens with photo sensitive coating were exposed using the negative’s and panels screened using ink.

Happy days.

That logo looks very much like the Millers Oil logo.

The logo on the gauge looks as though it has been cut out of paper and stuck on. The circle is not centred and the edges are wavy.

I think Hopper has likely guessed the correct use.

Assuming the ring of cap head bolts shown on the collar attach to the main slotting head plate. This means that when the collar mounts onto a shaft which is horizontal the action of the slotting head would be vertical.

So a likely candidate would be a horizontal milling machine with a 3” diameter bar.

Andy,

with reference to the possible engine at Polgooth, have you read the book “The lives of Boulton and Watt” by Samuel Smiles published in 1865. Just in case you haven’t it says the following on the erection on Newcomen engines “erected by Hornblower at Weal Busy, or Chacewater and a third at Polgooth…..”

There is also a etching of Polgooth.

This book is available as a free download at Project Gutenburg and contains a lot of info about Newcomen and is worth a read by anyone with an interest in early engines and engineers.