Member postings for Michael Smith 15

You could use a leather edgers creasing tool or a Bissonette edge tool both available from C S Osborne but not cheap . Mike

Its a depthing tool for checking the mesh of clock wheels and pinions and then used to mark the centers on the clock plates

Peter thank you for that information ,it will give me much food for thought it is exactly the information I was looking for. I shall start to think about wheel sizes etc .

Several years ago I built a green oak tower in my garden which is 25 feet tall and 12 feet square to house a copy of the clepsydra that is at Killruddery **LINK** So I will use my pendulum as part of a clock to keep it company Thanks Mike

Thanks for the reply , I have ordered a copy of the book. I find it difficult to read these documents on line and much prefer to hard copy in front of me I found a reprint available for about £10.00 delivered Thanks Mike

I have recently acquired a large pendulum from a turret clock . It is of wooden construction with a bob of cast iron that weighs about 20 lbs and is 64 inches long.

It is very nicely made and I would date it some time between 1880 ad 1920 unfortunately the clock is long gone. I would like to build a clock to incorporate it into with a gravity escapement . I don't really want to start from scratch , does anyone know of any drawings that might exist for a clock of this size as all my searches draw a blank . I would use plasma cut gears and fabricated frame .

Size is not a problem as I have access to cnc plasma cutting up to 20mm on a 2 meter square table and can handle up to 4 foot diameter on my lathe

I have built several of J Wildings clocks including his turret clock with a grasshopper escapement.

Any ideas on escapement design and gear sizes and ratios would be much apperciated

This video shows how to remove spindle

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1YJQUpNuaQ

Edited By Michael Smith 15 on 22/08/2021 19:06:02

On my XYZ1500 which I think is the same design as you KRV the bearing assembly can be removed without removeing the quill . In the quill at the bottom there is a small grub screw .remove this and undo the aluminium

cap , The bearing assembly will then come out, adjust the lock nuts at the top.it only takes a couple of minuets . The grub screw is at the back of the quill and not obvious unless you know were it is Hope this helps Mike

All the Simms couplings that I have had have been lost wax castings and the teeth are left as cast ,It seems a lot of work to make one when they are readily available from several car restoration suppliers for about £30 each and £15 for the fabric coupling. Mike

M3 x 0.6 are used in French built Bulle clocks. Mike

Due to the impurities genuine wrought ca only be forge welded Mike

I still have my Boley 5LZ and use it regularly mainly for screw cutting ,they are very fine lathes but the headstock bearings require careful management . I have never managed to find any spares .

There was one on Ebay recently I think it was a capstan version . It was in poor condition and did not sell ,it was far too expensive It might be worth looking at Leinen jathes . The L4Z shares some common parts

**LINK**

Regards Mike

I Have just been making some new wheel studs for a 1929 Crossley truck , the hub end is 3/4 bsf but the wheel nut end is 18 x2mm thread . It would appear that the mixing of imperial and metric has been going on for quite some time

I make mine in EN 24 T which is hardened and tempered but is machinable and requires no further treatment

Edited By Michael Smith 15 on 09/03/2017 08:52:19

It;s a tapping machine I have a slightly large one in daily use . In between the two pulleys there should be 2 cone clutches . The belt goes from the motor over one idler around one pulley back around the second idler back around the second pulley then back over the 3rd idler to the motor ,

when the lever is pushed down it engages one cone clutch and powers the tap into the work piece when pressure is taken off the lever the weight engages the second clutch and reverses the spindle direction.

I have taken loads of equipment to France from lathes to mini diggers and never had a problem .

When I wired up my workshop I installed english sockets and take most of my electrical goods from the UK, The price of electrical sockets etc in France I find expensive and nowhere near as substantial as english ones . I also believe that screwfix deliver to France on orders of 70 euros or more.

My local bricomarch what 20 euros for a Legrand double socket .

Interesting to know where other people live .My main workshop is still in the UK but I spend 4 months a year in France near to St Gaudens about 100kms south west of Toulouse.

Good luck with your Move Mike

I have a Forkardt F125 3 jaw chuck as mentioned by JS on my Boley 5LZ lathe with reversible jaws. Its a fantastic piece of kit but a bit dear at £2000 + for the chuck body and £380 for a set of jaws. Thats a lot more than I payed for the complete lathe .

It is balanced with a top speed rating of 4500rpm

A friend of mine has several 5 axis Huron machines making parts for the areospace industry to limits that most people could only dream about . They use ER collets for everthing and recon there is nothing to beat them . Good enough for , good enough for me

It looks like the Indian copy of the arboga that has suffered a motor transplant as the original motor is inside the gearbox I have a original Arboga with a factory fitted compound table with power feeds You need special tooling that is held in place with a collar . I have both collet chucks and a orginal boreing head for mine but tend to use it mostly as drilling machine Spindle taper is 3 morse Mike

Went here resently very interesting https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garabit_viaduct

Use Lidl angle grinders all the time . On sale this weekend for £19.99 .

Aldi angel grinder look the same but seem to be of a slightly lesser quality

Last Hitachi grinder I brought was nowhere near as good and twice the price