Member postings for Alan Johnson 7

Machinery's Handbook is available as a free download from the U.S. Archives.org site. From the 1924 edition to very recent editions. This was my search:

https://archive.org/search?query=machinery%27s+handbook&and%5B%5D=mediatype%3A%22texts%22

Some are available as a free download, others can be borrowed.

I downloaded the 30th. Edition in large print some tome ago.

In answer to your original post.

If it is "a horrible lamp" dump it and buy something new, but, if you are like me..... recycle, re-use!

First question is: does the lamp have a transformer, or is there a switched mode power supply?

If it does have a transformer, I will check my 1970's DC power supply textooks and report back.

Found a reference in the Index offered on this site!

Repairing Pump Seals by Dunn, David in Issue 265 (March, 2018) on page 15. Now I just have to find my copy!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. It is most appreciated.

I have some old (1940's) hand car tyre pumps. I would like to restore them. I remember reading in MEW (or maybe ME) an article about making new buckets for these sort of pumps. I can't find the article! I have searched for air, car, pump, car, leather, automobile, tyre, bucket, stirrup, all to no success.

Would anyone know where I can find the this article?

Casting Bells..... There is a thread on the Australian Metalwork Forums about casting bells. The thread is called "They are getting big." Here s the web address:

https://metalworkforums.com/f267/t207736-getting

If you are not a member, you can't look at the pictures, BUT, there is a video of a pour, that is available on Youtube. Here is the link:

https://youtu.be/Xy8KGZCjgUg

Not a lot of help in the original enquiry, but shows that bell casting is alive and well!

I don't know much about casting bronze, but a little about casting lead alloys. To add antimony to a lead tin mix the method I was told about is to have the antimony on top of the pot and use a propane torch to add more heat to the antimony. In the advice I had, there is a warning that there could be a bit of an explosion and molten metal would go everywhere! Being faint hearted, I never tried it!

As to scrap bronze, taps and the like have a small percentage of lead to make the molten metal fill the mould better. We had this problem with a new government hospital where I live. The builder purchased all the plumbing fittings from China, and when tested the water showed traces of lead! All had to e replaced! Also, bronze can be made with a percentage of iron.

An idea of the planned use would help.

Did you need a bistale multivibrator which needs a trigger, or an astale multivibrator which does not require a trigger pulse?

Pont du Gard. Built in about 90AD on schedule and within budget. Who said "What did the Romans do for us!"

I have just read every post on this thread. Thanks to all contrutors! A lot went over my head, but in all very enlightening.

One thing that struck me is the presumption that the maker "got it right" for the number of holes! Has anyone else considerd this?

If , as Neil stated - the device was a teaching aid, would it matter that the hole count was not perfect? Also, another contributor suggested that these ancient people had better ways of calculating the future view / changes in the cosmos than the AM. If I was the teacher, and gave the students a problem I would be keen to get a result before the students - without a lot of work, and be able to demonstrate the correct answer - quickly.

Boxford is a South Bend clone.

There was a Popular Mechanics article to build a thread dial indicator. It was in the May 1952 edition. pdf page 208. You can download a copy for free from:

https://archive.org/details/PopularMechanics1952/Popular_Mechanics_01_1952/

I made one! It was easy!

Australian Metal Working Hobbyist sell the worm gear. It has 32 teeth.

https://australianmetalworkinghobbyist.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=666&search=thread+dial

Regards,

Alan.

I have a 1ES and the handbook that came with it. Plus some other info for the Bridgeport "copy."

Happy to email.

An unusual use for an Armstrong Siddeley Sapphire Star! This is not my car!

MEW No.178, Page 46. An Oiler for the Myford Lathe, by Barry Forrest.

I made one, and it works very well - better than the original oiler, of which I have two.

Made from the scrap box and used an oil can I already had. The conversion of the oil can was non destructive.

I had thought that Myford recommended nothing more than 0.75HP (0.56kW).

I left a piece of mild steel in phosphoric acid (Chemtech Rust Off Remover - from local hardware store) overnight - because I forgot! Nothing to do with my age! Same effect. No "grey" finish, more a rusted orange colour. I will attempt to find it tomorrow and photograph it.

Angel's Breath.

MEW Issue 72 (March/April 2001), Page 58, by J. R. Lait, Lincoln.

He said Angel's Breath is ideal for drill and tapping 25BA holes in extremely tough armour plate type alloy.

DMB (above) described it as Guy Lautrard's formula.

It works very well, but you must use genuine turpentine - sometimes called Artist's Turpentine. Smell is pleasant too, and doesn't become rancid.

IPA = Indian Pale Ale......

Now I am confused!!!!

A set of Litchfield Pullers would do the trick, or a hydraulic press and a a couple of bits of thick flat bar to support the pulley as you press the shaft out........ unless I am mis-understanding your problem. A photograph would be worth a thousand words!

The sole difference between me and a madman is that I am not mad." Salvador Dali.

The Harrison M250 circuit diagram does not show a fuse in the light circuit. This does not really help, but I would be surprised if the Company changed "philosophies" between models.... but then again, it may have been modified by a previous owner!

You will need to track the wiring back. Conductors break in places where the cable is being flexed alot - like where the cable goes into the light fitting, or back into the machine. A good wiggle at these points may "shed light" upon the problem - if the light switch is "on," and the switch is not physically broken. The M250 diagram does not show a switch, but it could be an integral part of the light fitting on the M300. The light fitting itself may have failed, but I am sure you have already checked that.

The essential dimension of a shaper is the maximum length of the stroke. This dimension is missing!