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MYFORD ML 10

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NJH20/07/2014 23:22:48
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2314 forum posts
139 photos

Can anyone please tell me the thread size and type for the tool post on the ML10?

Thanks

Norman

Edited By NJH on 20/07/2014 23:23:21

TrevorK21/07/2014 08:05:11
45 forum posts
4 photos

Norman, its 7/16" BSF

Trevor

NJH21/07/2014 12:35:52
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2314 forum posts
139 photos

Thanks for the speedy reply Trevor.

Regards

Norman

Clive Hartland21/07/2014 13:54:09
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2929 forum posts
41 photos

They are offered as spares on EBay. Look under ML10.

Clive

NJH21/07/2014 19:23:52
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2314 forum posts
139 photos

Clive

I have sent you a pm

N

Noel Glennon24/09/2015 13:00:50
1 forum posts

Hi, I bought an ML 10 from Reeves of Birmingham in 1971/2. I used it for a number of years and stored it. I now want to restore it somewhat. Some of the bed has rusted, not too badly, but i'm afraid if I remove the rust by abrasion it will damage the bed. Is there a way to remove the rust without using abrasives or are there gentle abrasives that will minimise the damage.

David Clark 124/09/2015 14:57:32
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3357 forum posts
112 photos
10 articles

Arc Euro Trade used to do a rust remover that worked really well. They may still sell it. It removes rust without discolouring the metal.

Muzzer24/09/2015 16:58:23
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2904 forum posts
448 photos

White potscrubber (for non-stick pans) in conjunction with a small power sander and said rust remover if it proves tough?

Bazyle24/09/2015 18:05:36
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6956 forum posts
229 photos

As it is a flat bed you can use a brand new Stanley knife blade to scrape across the surface, at a fine angle not like a scraper, and lift off the tiny rust nodules, after oiling. Bit like shaving. It might be a little hazardous if you are not steady handed.

Then perhaps a small brass wire brush, making sure it is brass not plated steel. Then the scourer, by hand. You would have to thoroughly de-oil to use a liquid (phosphoric acid) anti rust. Also avoid wirewool unless the ultra fine variety but that is still a scratch risk probably more cosmetic than damaging.

As you have probably run the saddle up and down to 'test it' you should remove same and clean the bearing faces underneath as they will have picked up some rust aka grinding paste.

Ajohnw24/09/2015 18:16:52
3631 forum posts
160 photos

The best introduction to one method of removing rust is probably here

**LINK**

There are then plenty of ideas about on the web. This should include a towel soaked in the solution with a steel plate on top. for things like lathe beds.

I've not tried it but there are some results to be seen on a site called stargazerslounge. It looks to be the most effective method of the lot.

Might as well add the machine tool dealers method that in part is based on the fact that machines have usually been oiled frequently. It's pretty simple paraffin and grade 400 wet and dry. You could also try the kitchen scourers that look like the plastic sanding cloths. Afraid I can't remember what those are called because if I want one I use the kitchen type.

John

=

 

Edited By John W1 on 24/09/2015 18:19:58

Neil Wyatt24/09/2015 19:50:15
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

I would never waste effort on a mechanical method of removal - why lose any good metal when there are so many chemical approaches that won't affect sound steel/iron? bear in mind rust contains a huge amount of water that 'puffs it up' so it can look far worse than it really is.

If you can find Evapo Rust at fair price, try it. Someone recommended it on here so I arranged a review.

I was knocked out by how well it worked and it's non-toxic. See MEW 233.

the two pics below are a day apart, but to be honest the stuff works in 30 minutes to an hour. It uses chelation rather than acidity.

Neil

evapo rust (1).jpg

evapo rust (5).jpg

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 24/09/2015 19:53:02

Ajohnw24/09/2015 21:00:52
3631 forum posts
160 photos

I think some one would be more likely to buy a lathe that looked like it did before the treatment Neil.

John

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Neil Wyatt24/09/2015 21:54:30
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

The colour is because on carbon steel the carbon in the rust gets left behind as a loose coating

Ajohnw24/09/2015 22:22:59
3631 forum posts
160 photos

I've noticed that using molasses and it's not at all easy to get off. Seems to have a different effect on different types of iron / steel as well.

John

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Neil Wyatt24/09/2015 23:12:51
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

It's not too bad, its different from the iron phosphate coating that becomes part of the surface that some rust removers leave, and different from the effect of electrolysis that creates patches of magnetite. On some stuff (chrome-vanadium sockets for example) it rubs off with your thumb. If you leave the ER on it acts as a rust preventative but it has a slight stick feel so I washed it off and oil the items.

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