Hot bandsaw........

I have only thrown a few small jobs at my WARCO CY 90 band saw which I purchased last summer so it has had little use. Today though I needed to hack through a piece of 70 x 50 mm mild steel to get a piece small enough for a new bit of tooling (knurler).

The piece I had was to small to grip in the band saws vice so following the lead of someone on here a while ago I Araldited it to a bit of wood yesterday.

Today - Araldite cured - I thought the saw took its time going through at approx. 35 minutes although I'm not in a rush these days so no worries there. What is a bit concerning though was at the end of the cut I started to smell something like hot paint. It was the motor - I cautiously tried to touch it but it was far to hot for that.

In future I'll do a cut like this in two shifts to avoid this sort of overheating.

Is this a common problem with this sort of Chinese kit or what?

Rik

Edited By Rik Shaw on 15/01/2014 17:07:00

I have exactly the same saw...no probs here...

if it's running hot, then there's a prob with the motor IMHO.....these motors are pretty simple, is the fan turning?

otherwise it's either a cap issue or windings......

opportunity to go to 3ph and a vfd?

I use my saw on the middle speed and it cuts through 3 1/4" round in about 10-15 minutes at a guess. this leaves it warm but not overheated and I always let it cool before the next cut is tackling big jobs.

Possibly the blade is a cheap carbon one and its blunted. Are you running it at the top speed?

Neil

Agrre with Neil, sounds like a blunt blade. I've often found that I have used blades quite a bit more than I first thought. Investing in a decent bimetal blade is a very good move, you get a lot more cuts per quid and save time too.

A small cheap drilling vice fixed onto a lump of wood ( sorry non-specific technical term) holds short ends OK and saves epoxy and time. One other point, if the bandsaw is set up well the cut is very predictable so you can go very close to a scribed line with a bit of care. There are quite a few mods on the web, many concern vice mods.

Billy.

I've got the same saw and mine ran hot as well.

I looked at the fan and the whole thing is a solid plastic lump and I couldn't see how any air could get into the motor.

so I cut slices out between the blades and now some air is getting into the motor.

Mind you, the long list of problems I,ve had with this dam' thing I wish I'd never heard of Warco.

load of rubbish.

Roy.

Edited By wheeltapper on 15/01/2014 22:35:41

Thanks for all the advice - the blade on this machine is the original one as supplied by WARCO so its probably a cheap carbon steel version. It IS and always has been running on the slowest speed and a close inspection of the teeth this morning shows that they are sharp and show no sign of wear.

Nevertheless, I think it would be an idea to buy a couple of spares but I am having problems tracking down a supplier of top quality branded bi-metal blades of the correct size ie. 12.7 x 0.5 x 1300. Can anyone shove me in the right direction please?

Rik

I've bought mine from **LINK** since the chap moved from Dragon Saws. Tell hime what saw you have and what you do with it.

Roy, my version has a centrifugal fan and it's meant to blow air along the sides of the motor, not through it. The motor is a sealed unit and the coils are in close thermal contact with the case, as described in another recent thread. There should be a cover for the fan that directs the draught.

Neil

The manual for my Warco bandsaw gives the following possible causes for motor running too hot:

1. Blade tension too high
2. Drive belt tension too high
3. Blade is too coarse for work
4. Blade is too fine for work
5. Gears alligned (sic) improperly
6. Gears need lubrication
7. Cut is binding blade

I realize that Rik Shaw has a much later and different machine but this comprehensive list does suggest some possibilities for investigation. 1 - 6 are self-explanatory; the corrective action for 7 is to adjust the guide bearing clearance. My motor runs hot too, but thirty plus years on the saw is still working well, currently with a bimetallic blade from Stub Mandrel's supplier.

I had problems with hot running and poor cutting performance from the saw despite the original blade appearing to be sharp. I bought some bimetal blades from Neill's recommendation, Tuffsaws, and the saw was transformed into a quick cutter and the motor ran warm only. I also bought a spare blade, as I had previously experienced breakages and it has remained unused for three years.

Mick

My unit has a motor that also runs hot but I had a look at the specification plate on the motor. And it said Temp = 60 deg centigrade which is approx what it runs at ,I have had it for over 10 yrs and it is still going even after the abuse I have lavished upon it !

I run mine up on the highest speed (via pulleys) so maybe disconnect your drive belt and let the motor run with no load and see if there is any temperature difference ?

Ian

My unit has a motor that also runs hot but I had a look at the specification plate on the motor. And it said Temp = 60 deg centigrade which is approx what it runs at ,I have had it for over 10 yrs and it is still going even after the abuse I have lavished upon it !

I run mine up on the highest speed (via pulleys) so maybe disconnect your drive belt and let the motor run with no load and see if there is any temperature difference ?

Ian

That saw has never seen a billet.....it's far too clean...

I can endorse the use of blades from the Dragon saw guy too..Had numerous blades from him...

but still my motor runs cool...

OOPPS ! Sorry about the double posts .

Maybe a Moderator could remove one please .

Ian