Bridgeport one shot lube repair, plus lubrication question

Hi,

Can anyone recommend a supplier for replacement piping for a bridgeport one shot lubrication system? The pipes are clear plastic just a fraction under 5/32" outside diameter. I found this place on the internet:

http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/site/1478157/page/705249

but would prefer a European (UK) based supplier. The milll is a 1985 Bridgeport/textron badged of UK origin. I think the one shot lube system is a factory installed option. Although it does not look identical to any I have seen in any manual I have yet found on the internet.

The background to this request is that I noticed damage to the pipe work after I got my bridgeport into the workshop. To get it through the door I had to take the table off. I noticed that one of the lubricant feed pipes to the longitudinal feed nuts was damaged. I am now considering to take the saddle and knee off to make sure all the lubricant distribution is functional.

Any tips for taking off the saddle? Knee?

Also what lubricant is recommend for the pulley cam / spindle bearing quill feed / quill bearings? The manual quotes "Vactra Heavy Medium". Any tips on the equivalents to that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve

Arc Euro Trade sell a one shot system, piping may be slightly different size but is clamped in the fittings by an olive, you may find something suitable there. Useful tips for Bridgeports, the dog clutch for the knee elevating screw is not fixed, it just pulls off, it's usually well stuck with dried oil. Do not over tighten the grub screw that locks the lower bearing cap on the spindle, it will cause the quill to bind when it is raised.

Have a look at 4mm nylon or polyurethane pneumatic line.

Hi Steve,

I've replaced some of our lube systems tubing with nylon pneumatic hose from these guys **LINK** its not transparent, but seems to do the job and you can get adapters to suit the lubricator.

All,

Many thanks for the tips on the 4mm pneumatic hose.

Regards,

Steve

Steve

Re lubrication. Mine seems happy on Castrol Magna BD68 for way and heavy oil duties, Castrol Hyspin AWS 32 for bearing and light oil work. Pretty much my standard machine oils largely because I can easily get 5 litre bottles mail order from RS Components at not to stupid prices.

Whilst you are at it pull the flow control valves, clean and verify that they are working. Its next door to impossible to clear a well plugged one and restore long term satisfactory option. Best to operate the system every couple of weeks and wind the slides back and forth if the machine stands idle for some time.

Clive

Hi All,

I am re-building an a&s bridgeport. I am at the point of re-installing the knee, saddle and table. The question is should I go for a one shot lube system or simply oil through all of the zerk fittings. It will not have high usage but will be looked after. I have read that a down side of the one-shot is that it is not easy to know if any particular line is blocked. They seem really neat but is it worth it? Any views appreciated. Nathan.

Auto lube systems are available that sequence through each line and if a line is blocked a monitoring timer will produce an alert. Trabon are one make but I think they are part of Graco now. I think the cost would be prohibitive on a small machine but on a million pound press lube failure would be disastrous. On a machine that we use at home a check round now and again will confirm that oil is getting where it should. I would think that most home workshop machines are over lubed as we are unlikely to work the machines hard enough between running round with the oil gun or giving the one shot lever a push.

Mike

Hi I have used these, lubeline.co.uk, to supply parts and systems from shefield uk not connected to me but very helpful. I have worked on servicing bridgeport Mills for many years and other than replacing a pump or two the main problem is damaged pipework and blocked injector units I would recommend changing injector units if you can at least check they all work before assembley. The original system is fairly bomb proof and I wouldn't change it. If anyone needs a manual for a series 2 send me a PM as I have scanned the manual and parts list and wiring diagram but as I scanned it at a high resolution I would have to send a DVD disk to big to email.

David

Edited By David George 1 on 20/05/2017 23:23:28

If the machine is bolted down to the floor the cap the ram slides in can just have the 4 bolts loosened and the whole head and ram swung off to one side. Without it fastened down I'd not take the chance since the knee, saddle and table add up to a significant amount of the weight and the machine could easily go over sideways with all that weight off to one side. So if it's not bolted down I'd remove the motor then remove the head from the knuckel by supporting the end of the spindle first with a piece of plywood between the spindle end and the table. Raise the knee until it just takes the heads weight then remove the 4 head bolts that fasten it to the knuckel. Then remove the ram. If you remove the column cap be aware that some machines have nothing to support the internal spider inside the top of the column casting once the cap bolts are removed. But the spider can be held through the columns side access panel while the bolts are removed or replaced The head, table, ram and knee aren't light so it depends on what you have other than human power for lifting them. Remove the main one shot lube container after you've removed the table and saddle. With the table and saddle off and if there's no rear mounted electrical cabinet on the rear of the main column casting the machine can be laid over on its back. Bolt a 3'-4' long wooden 2"x4" to the underside of the columns base to keep the machine from rolling over sideways while it's postioned on it's back. Wind the knee up the dovetail with the knee crank until it's clear of the nut, remove the knee gib and locks and the knee can then be slid the rest of the way up the dovetail until it clears that dovetail. Assembly is done in reverse. I'd want to have an engine hoist at least for doing the heavy lifting or a good chain fall.

It's not a big or hard job but it does take some thought and planning. And cleaning out all the old congealed oil, swarf etc makes a large difference in the machines feel and accuracy. The feed screws and nuts should be washed down with a good solvent as well. All that black oil on every surface is because of wear particals and swarf.Neither is good for a machines life span. Make sure to readjust the feed nuts during reassembly and replace any suspect way wipers and felts. The machine will feel a lot nicer to use once all this is done. But on a well worn machine there's only so far you can go with the nut and gib adjustments before the screws and slides will get tight at the extremes of travel. Use a seperate container for each set of parts and lable where there from as there removed. I make sure parts like the tables bearing hangers that the X axis screw is supported on go back on the same ends of the table. The two bevel gears on the top of the knee screw are the only place I use a light grease unless your one shot oils that area as well. The rest of the machine gets way oil. And with the head off the machine be very careful how you set it down once removed from that knuckel. It's all too easy and common to break parts off like the small spindle direction feed knob. Don't ask how I now know that. Once back togeather remove the oil zerks from the area on the side or back of the head to check that there is in fact the proper spindle oil inside. It should take spindle oil and way oil is too thick. Bridgeports are a total loss head oiling system so it's not uncommon to get the odd drip once in awhile off the spindle area.

Try here:- **LINK**

for nylon oil line and other lubrication items.

Nick.

"DROPSA" make an excellent powered lubrication system, operates only whilst the controls are enabled.

One shot system it is then. Thanks for the advice. I'll try to post some pictures once done.