Retrofit kit
M0BND | 20/10/2012 13:08:33 |
81 forum posts 9 photos | Does anyone know if there is a 'kit' of standard parts to convert the WARCO WM18? http://www.warco.co.uk/milling-machines/33-wm-18-variable-speed-milling-machine.html Any help or information would be great!
Andy. |
Mark P. | 20/10/2012 13:52:20 |
![]() 634 forum posts 9 photos | Thinking of doing the same to my Warco WM16. Have seen a set of 3 ballscrews on ebay for £160 (from China obviously). Might be worth pursuing in the 1st instance also stepper motors. Regards Mark P. |
John Stevenson | 20/10/2012 15:00:01 |
![]() 5068 forum posts 3 photos | Done about 5 or 6 of these, WM14's, 16's and one 18. There are no kits. Everyone I have done has been on it's own merits. WM14 aren't bad to do but some, not all, WM16's because of the longer bed, have casting sag in the middle of the bed which has to be machined out before a ball screw, or rater the nut, will fit. WM18's always have to be machined for clearance.
John S. |
Niloch | 20/10/2012 16:55:00 |
371 forum posts | Googling Warco WM18 CNC conversion reveals the following: although I don't have the time to find out whether this is recent information or no. Additionally it appears that the WM18 is similar to the BF30 in which case Optimum do a conversion kit: |
M0BND | 20/10/2012 20:44:17 |
81 forum posts 9 photos | Thanks for the quick replies. Of all the things I normally do (check with Google) and I didn't this time!!! Great conversion thread on the link above. I will have to study this for a while and take it all in. Thanks again. Andy. |
JoeT | 09/06/2013 21:18:54 |
24 forum posts | The conversion thread is actually mine - so feel free to ask if you've got any questions! That said, if I had it all to do again, I would probably have just gone with a real BF30 and their off the shelf kit! Cheers, Joe. |
Tillytoghills | 16/02/2018 16:03:04 |
2 forum posts 6 photos | Newbei here! I am in the process of converting a Warco WM16 mill into CNC including installing ballscrews on x and y. Lots of challenges along the way. Currently trying to find a way to oil the screws without having to take off the table every time. Quite a few photos if anybody is interested. |
Dave Smith 14 | 16/02/2018 16:32:35 |
222 forum posts 48 photos | I have a WM16 as well and would be very interested in seeing how you got on and the pitfalls involved. Regards Dave
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Tillytoghills | 16/02/2018 17:10:27 |
2 forum posts 6 photos | Gosh Dave, where to begin! I kind of went backwards with this and built the box of electrics first. Got most things from CNC4you.co.uk, 16mm ballscrews and Nema 23s for x and y and Nema 34 for z and appropriate drivers and power supply etc. No major issues with the electrics but I have no idea how to set the driver dip switches. Not at all so easy with the ballscrew mountings. There is not enough room between the saddle and the table to fit the ballnut. After much deliberation I choose to mill out (using my lathe!) a 5mm deep channel on top of the saddle to recess the x ballscrew in. I addition, I needed to take off about 1mm from the top of the ball nut to allow clearance of the table. There was just enough room to mount a limit switch for x on top of the saddle. The end bearings were off centre after I had milled the recess for the ballscrew, so I needed to make replacement plates for each end of the table. The y ballscrew was still more of a challenge. I was reluctant to have the motor sticking out from the front. Other people seem to have fitted a pulley system with the motor under the table. I elected to mount the motor at the back. That required me to bore 20mm through the back of the base and the pillar. Without a working mill, that was quite a tricky and very heavy job. The y ballnut is a very tight fit in the recess of the base and required a bit of messy trimming of the ballnut. The limit switch for y fits immediately behind the DRO. Finally, the z axis. I elected to leave the leadscrew in place and see how the backlash works out. Connecting to the motor involved drilling and tapping the top of the leadscrew to M10. Eventually I guess I shall have to glue the drive pin into place.
This is a work in process. Apart for the commissioning of the electrics (very scared about that, unknown territory) I still need to resolve ballscrew lubrication, swarf protection on the y ballscrew, moving cable management and no doubt many much more.
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mike T | 16/02/2018 17:36:07 |
221 forum posts 1 photos | I have used this company several times when I have upgraded my Emco F1 mills. http://www.motioncontrolproducts.com/cnc-components/cnc-driver-kits.php?cat=7 They supply all the necessary electronic components as CNC kits which contain the steppers, controllers PSU's and the all important 25 pin breakout board. The kits contain almost everything you need for the electronic installation other than the wires. Very pleased with their service and the equipment has given many years of reliable service. Mike |
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