Member postings for M0BND

....mmmm about 3 years old! I'm sorry that my post caused any inconvenience!

Andy ;-(

Does this come under the description of 'shate'? http://www.raaltd.com/alu_plate.htm

Andy.

Edited By M0BND on 02/05/2014 20:05:38

**LINK** for any information on orings. IBCO Bournemouth are the people I use at work for orings.

Andy.

I agree too. Z minus will remove material, therefore as you have said, knee up = minus.

Andy.

A very long stroke for what's required, however, it does take me back a few years.....lovely.

Andy.

I can't think why, but when he skimmed the face true, why didn't he turn a register diameter the same size of the existing bore in the part? This would have saved a lot of time when clamping the part to the plate later?

Andy.

Try these for drills. I use them for my job when required - http://www.drill-service.co.uk/

I would also recommend Dormer drills as above, however, not the tin coated type but the A100 series black jobber drills. Keep feed fairly high, speed low and plenty of oil (neat or soluble at around 8%).

Andy.

on a side note.... Watch on centre drilling or spot drilling. The 'lead' of these can burn the edges of the drills early and cause excessive wear before you've gone too far. What I'm saying is, just centre enough to stop the drill wandering on start.

Edited By M0BND on 23/08/2013 22:53:25

I made some helical gears as part of my apprenticeship back in 1989.

Not difficult but if you want to cut this type of gear you will need to rotate the machine table too. This is to stop the rear of the cutter 'back cutting'. Backlash will be a problem, so remove the cutter from the work when reversing the table to the start of the cut.

Other than that I can't remember a lot. I made some nice candlestick lamps too this way which had a nice twist up them.

Andy.

Sorry, I didn't want it to go off on a tangent but WOW, I like the look of that code. I've never hear of the DOS system before, what happened to it?

10mm deep 25mm diameter 1mm pitch thread in Heidenhain would be this code....

CC X0 Y0

L PR0 PA0 R0 FMAX M3

L Z-10 R0 FMAX

L PR12.5 PA0 RL F500

CP IPA+3960 IZ +11 DR+

L PR0 PA0 R0 FMAX

I don't know why Fanuc (iso) make everything so difficult, but I do like how powerful and FAST everything is compared to Heidenhain!!!

sorry for the unhelpful code above but it's so short I just had to share!!!

Andy.

Necessity is the mother of invention!!!

I have used this trick once before but for a much longer M3 thread. A spot of green loctite and all was solid and good.

This is something you will use many times over I think?

Andy.

££££'s can be what you spend, but should be worth it. Taps, I would recommend would be Titex, OSG or similar. Dies I don't have too much experience with but maybe look for the same manufacturer?

Andy.

I see a lot of German drawings - all 1st angle! They can catch you out because your eyes and brain get used to 3rd and the drawings look very weird.

I haven't followed or read all the posts on this thread but I was always taught 1st angle is to take the part and just roll it to the new view(to the left, right, top or bottom). For 3rd angle, pick up and place to the left, right, top or bottom. Hope this helps!

**LINK** I work in a company that make and assemble these and have also machined some of the parts on them. Tapped holes range from M2 to M6, this is grade 2 titanium and machines like mild steel to a fashion. We weld these together too and again, not a problem - TIG with argon shielding. Hand dressing was easily done but quite labour intensive.

Andy.

I have deleted and just inserted the site and what I searched for now....

Andy.

Oops, has that displayed ok?

Andy.

Try this ..... http://www.mscdirect.co.uk and search for Inverted Dovetail

Andy.

Edited By M0BND on 16/04/2013 21:58:32

Correct Andrew, exactly that.
This is what I now have.... a piece of EN1A lying around.

Outside diameter...

and bore...

I'm not sure what the Chinese mean by three feed leadscrew? To me, this is a standard lathe set up, one lead screw, one feed screw. Lead screw is standard - possible 3mm pitch, and the feed screw is a slotted bar which as I am learning drives a keywayed gear mechanism to cross slide and saddle. I can take more photos if required to show the lathe a bit more close up than the link that I have provided.

Andy.