By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Frame Problem

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Deltic00714/08/2012 11:22:56
avatar
131 forum posts
12 photos

Hi,

I have a set of frames for the 3 1/2 guage LILLA that i am about to treat with something to stop them rusting in the garage,I have sandblasted them clean and was wondering how effective a black oxide solution would be via a spray gun,Any ideas or experiance of this ?? least then i could black the other propriotory components to match.....

or am i better priming with matt black paint,any recommendations for a type of primer?

Thanks for your answers.....Deltic007

ronan walsh14/08/2012 11:39:51
546 forum posts
32 photos

Upol acid etch from halfrauds ?

KWIL14/08/2012 11:58:44
3681 forum posts
70 photos

Upol Acid Etch #8 is fine, but if you want to do other than have a short term cover, it needs to be overcoated with a stronger primer or top coat

Bazyle14/08/2012 12:43:21
avatar
6956 forum posts
229 photos

Other options are wax candle rubbed all over warmed up and smeered around to get full coverage. Very nice to handle. Or in summer waxyoil diluted with white spirit and hung in the sun to dry off the pong. Not so nice to handle.

Don't use any kind if car polish or furniture polish though as they contain silicone.

David Littlewood14/08/2012 15:24:11
533 forum posts

I usually treat my machine tools, steel items of workshop equipment and part completed models with Shell Ensis anti-rust oil, wiped on with a soaked rag. It seems to provide very good protection, but can easily be removed for painting with white spirit or similar solvent.

David

Douglas Johnston14/08/2012 17:44:45
avatar
814 forum posts
36 photos

Just a small point that has bothered me for some time. I keep reading about not using certain products because they contain silicone. Can anybody explain what the problem is with silicone?

Doug

Clive Hartland14/08/2012 19:38:34
avatar
2929 forum posts
41 photos

Doug, the silicon is very hard to get rid of and if you paint over it , the paint will never stay on the metal.

If you get it on a windscreen then you will not be able to see through it when it rains. I t acxts basically as a repellant.

Also if it gets into a thread it can sieze the screws you put in.

Clive

Deltic00714/08/2012 20:30:37
avatar
131 forum posts
12 photos

I think you guys did not read the full problem/questions ,I want to use paint or Black oxide not any sort of anti rust oils,That would be bad news as it is very hard to get rid of completely especially in a set of frames where oil can creep round the back of things.

Cheers

Springbok15/08/2012 03:53:04
avatar
879 forum posts
34 photos

There is another thread on this subject on a different Forum and the concensus was as long as joints are properly rivited it don't matter, recently bought a tender frame from fleamarket rusted to hell when taken apart joints were nice and shiny. by all means give it a light coat of primer will keep you happy, but rivet up properly.

Bob

David Littlewood16/08/2012 12:07:15
533 forum posts

Deltic,

You have to realise that, even if you launch a thread, you don't "own" it. Sometimes the debate raises points which, though not directly relevant to you, may be of help to others in a smilar position. Get over it.

David

Edited By David Littlewood on 16/08/2012 12:07:35

mgj16/08/2012 16:45:47
1017 forum posts
14 photos

I'd have thought he's entitled to an answer if one is available - after all thats why he posted the question. Still one continues to see the kind of warm and friendly attitude, allied to useful and accurate advice that persuades me to visit but rarely.

I wouldn't worry about the oil creeping - the paint isn't going to get into places, and longer term the oil in there might do good. I'd just give it a spray of oil personally and put it aside. I've used penetrating oil on the joints for good reasons. Then come the day, give it a good scrub with a brush in hot detergent and get it warm to dry. (If you are brave enough and use gloves, then very hot caustic is pretty good, but be careful - eye protection and all that stuff) Prime and top coat ASP

Priming at this stage - depends on how long you want to keep it, but most primers are porous. So there is a limitation there.

Edited By mgj on 16/08/2012 16:47:46

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate