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mark cross18/08/2011 12:45:12
8 forum posts
Hi,
 
Please forgive me if this is in the wrong section.
 
I am looking at buying a minilathe, initially to produce a couple of different components. One of them, I am unsure whether could be done on a mini lathe (Sieg C2a/Clarke 300 etc), or whether I would have to look at alternative methods or equipment.
 
It will start life as a 2mm brass rod, and needs to step down to a 0.5mm. There is approx 75mm of 2mm, down to 75mm of 0.5mm and a tiny bit back up to 1mm on the end of the 0.5mm. Will a minilathe adjust small enough to grip this?
 
Is there anybody out there that has the equipment to produce half a dozen of these, so that I can check the next operation before I invest the cash in the lathe- I am happy to pay for materials, postage and some beer tokens!
 
Any thoughts?
 
Mark
Andrew Johnston18/08/2011 12:56:15
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7061 forum posts
719 photos
It's not a case of whether you can grip the material, it's more a case of whether it is possible to turn it at all. Trying to turn long thin shafts almost inevitably leads to breakage.
 
You'd be better off re-designing it, or making it from stock 0.5mm, 1mm and 2mm rod silver soldered together.
 
Regards,
 
Andrew
JasonB18/08/2011 13:00:20
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles
Thats if you don't melt the 0.5mm brass before the solder
 
As Andrew says the main problem with long thin turning is stopping the work flexing, the fact you have a larger dia at each end means you cant use one of the fine work steadies that are made to slip over the work.
 
If the short 1mm section could be soft soldered or loctited to teh 0.5mm then it would make things quiet a bit easier but that still a very thin shaft.
 
J

Edited By JasonB on 18/08/2011 13:08:36

Billy Mills18/08/2011 13:10:52
377 forum posts
Visit a model shop and get some telescoping brass tube/rod/wire to fabricate the part. Soft solder or epoxy it together. O.5 mm is VERY tiddly.
Billy.
Gray6218/08/2011 13:25:36
1058 forum posts
16 photos
Hi,
The miniLathe will cope with these diameters however, you are dealing with very slender components which by their very nature are very susceptible to longtitudinal distortion.
 
Can you provide drawings for this component and also describe its intended final application. What grade of brass is to be used, what are the tolerances on the final dimensions etc.
 
regards
 
Graeme
 
mark cross18/08/2011 16:54:52
8 forum posts
I could probably do a sketch of sorts. Its final aplication is that the .5mm section will be bent and the item used to pick up honey bee larvae at the bottom of cells for a specialist operation. The 2mm end will go into a handle. The material used is not important- Brass seemed a good comprimise between stiffness and workability. Stainless would be ideal for the end use, but I assumed that it would be difficult to work. In service, it needs to be quite stiff- the commercial ones seem to be similar to dental probes, but these are a bit of an overkill for the requirement.
 
I have actually designed the piece a bit conservatively- The 0.5mm piece only needs to be about 35mm long- and I could probably do away the 1mm nib if it makes manufacturing easier. The purpose of this nib is so that I can flatten it with a hammer (or grind it flat) to make a small (flat) spoon.
 
It perhaps seems that turning is not the answer. It was an after thought- I had previously thought about drawing a 2mm rod into a .5mm wire. I would prefer it to be a single piece, rather than joined at the intersection of the 2 diametres.
 
 
Clive Hartland18/08/2011 17:02:34
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2929 forum posts
41 photos
Being a beekeeper this interests me, I think you are making it far too complicated Mark.
Simpler would be to get some stainless steel wire of the size and insert it into a suitable handle iether plastic or even hardwood.
You can then do what you want to do with the free end of the wire, making it into a spatular or cup.
Preserving the integrity of the bee egg is vital as is the time taken to manipulate.
Someone will come up with a source of the stainless steel wire which will be quite stiff even at 0.5mm dia.
 
Clive
JasonB18/08/2011 17:06:45
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25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles
If you do decide to turn them then have a look at this thread by our own Stu, if you do away with the 1mm end then it can be done with that moving steady.
 
J

Edited By JasonB on 18/08/2011 17:07:00

Speedy Builder518/08/2011 18:24:04
2878 forum posts
248 photos
Why not buy an egg picking tool made for the purpose? They cost 3 euro for a plastic tool and 12 euro for stainless steel here in France. They are probably cheaper in the UK.
mark cross18/08/2011 19:44:11
8 forum posts
Robert,
 
The stainless ones that you describe are too large. Imagine filling a small flowerpot using a garden spade. The plastic ones are worse- like using a shovel to fill the flowerpot. The "professional" ones are like using a trowel, but they are very expensive at c£30+ each.
 
The idea that Clive suggests would work- I am just not sure it would look quite how I would like it.
 
Mark
WALLACE18/08/2011 19:47:00
304 forum posts
17 photos
Find your local welders and scounge a length of stainless TUG welding wire off them. Sorted !!


Wallace.
Clive Hartland18/08/2011 20:43:16
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2929 forum posts
41 photos
Mark, Thornes are offering a few tools for egg manipulation and they seem reasonably priced, but if the sizing is not right then you should try to make your own!
I think the welding wire (stainless steel) is 0.8mm dia.
I dont think you can heat treat the stainless steel to work on it but I have at times using two abrasive stones face to face with the wire inbetween reduced the dia.
(This was for making 'Prickers' for diesel engine injectors)
All you can do is have a try at it.
 
Clive
Clive Hartland18/08/2011 20:46:34
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2929 forum posts
41 photos
Just had a look at Masiemore (Bees) and they have egg manipulating tools. Stainless steel at £11.50.
 
Clive
Peter Tucker18/08/2011 20:48:58
185 forum posts
Hi Mark,
 
What about seeing if a glass blower can make some from glass. Can be done yourself but needs practise.
 
Good luck.
 
Peter.

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