dcosta | 23/02/2011 19:11:07 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello!
Several months ago I started building a shaper (You can see some images not updated since long ago in my album), which is in a test phase of motorization and movements. I want to clarify that although I used information stemmed from the book by David Gingery, I didn't faithfully followed the book. I did not use castings, I “metrified” all the measures, I used a timing belt and pulleys instead of their "bicycle chain", in addition to other changes that will relate to those who might possibly be interested ... Does anyone have an opinion on this matter available to share?
Thanks in advance Dias Costa Edited By Dias Costa on 23/02/2011 19:13:45 |
Bryan Rozier | 23/02/2011 20:24:32 |
13 forum posts | Hi Dias, I have a old Atlas 7inch Shaper which the Manufacturer supplied with wither a 1/3HP or 1/2HP motor running at 1740 RPM (no doubt running off 60Hz in the USA). This Runs a counter shaft and which then has a Pulley with 4 Steps (Giving 4 speeds). Including the Bull Wheel reduction (Chain drive on the Gingery Shaper) this gives The following Strokes per minute :- 45, 78, 122, 186. You could equate that to RPM of the Bull wheel so you have some idea of the reduction required. If you are using a cheap Motor you might want to go a bit higher than what Atlas used but I'd say 1/2Hp would be enough - what power did Dave suggest? I can't see any referenc ein my copy of his book. Shapers have variable control of the FPS (Feet Per Second) cutting speed by varying the stroke length so I would suggest that Electronic Speed control is very much over the top and not required in your application. Is it possible for you to buy or make a couple of Cone Pulley to give you a range of speeds? It will be interesting to see how the timing belt stands up to the shock loads of the shaper. Good Luck Bryan |
Keith Long | 23/02/2011 21:30:15 |
883 forum posts 11 photos | Hi Dias When you use the lower speeds on a shaper you'll probably be taking a heavier cut as well, so you will still need all the power of the motor but at the lower speed / higher torque. You will get this with a set of differing size pulleys, but I'm not sure you will by running a motor at reduced speed with an inverter. My understanding is that the phase current will stay pretty much the same, so the motor torque will be the same and hence the motor output power will be lower. If that is the case it will limit the cut depth / width at the lower speeds which is not what you want. If I'm wrong on this will someone else please correct me. Keith |
Terryd | 23/02/2011 21:55:45 |
![]() 1946 forum posts 179 photos | Hi Dias, I would say that you don't need the speed range offered by an inverter so would be better with a fixed speed motor and a cone of pulleys to give a limited speed range which, combined with the change of stroke should be sufficient for a shaper. The shaper is a pretty basic machine and I think the simpler the better. I would love one by the way and have really missed seeing your pictures of the progress on your machine. Best regards Terry |
dcosta | 23/02/2011 23:31:56 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello Bryan! Hello Keith! Hello Terry!
Thanks for Your help. I hope You understand and forgive if I use only one post to respond to the three of You.
I apologize if I had not exposed all the elements I have related to the shaper in my previous post. Now I see some more information is relevant for those of You who volunteered to respond to my call to better understand the problem. Although I would like my shaper to be a little stronger...
That's all ocurring to me by now
Note: I have my workshop with pieces all over the place waiting for the bench to put the shaper on it and gain some space over and inside it. When I'll have the bench and the workshop in order, I'll make some pictures and a small film to show the “state of the works”.
Thanks for Your help Dias Costa
Edited By Dias Costa on 23/02/2011 23:42:09 |
John Olsen | 24/02/2011 09:11:29 |
1294 forum posts 108 photos 1 articles | Well, as the owner of four shapers, I would agree with Bryan above that 1/3 to 1/2 hp should be enough for a shaper the size of the Gingery one. You will be able to cut steel or cast iron OK, bear in mind that most machines are made of cast iron which is not a lot different in strength to aluminium if I remember correctly. The main downside to the aluminium will be that it can be scratched and worn more easily, but for home use with care it will be OK. You don't really need a lot of variation in speed for a shaper, none of mine have more than four speeds provided and the smallest one, 6-7 inches stroke has only three speeds. While it is true that you can adjust the speed by changing the stroke, you have to have the stroke long enough to cover the whole length of the job with a bit to spare. Making it longer will increase the cutting speed, but since the tool will be cutting less of the time, there is no net gain. A shaper will usually give a lovely finish, even at low speeds on alloy, so there is no great need to vary the speed a lot. I would agree however that you really want the torque when you reduce the speed, and this tends to mean that you want to change the ratio, not just reduce the speed. To expand on the above, a motor with a speed controller will be able to produce about the same torque at any speed within its range. So at a quarter of full speed you will get about the same torque as at full speed. If you reduce the speed with pullies or gears, you will get four times the torque when you reduce the speed to a quarter. So for instance although my Myford has a speed controller on it, when I am turning a 6 inch blank for a flywheel, I still engage backgear and drop the speed on the belt as well. That lets me take a heavy cut at a reasonable cutting speed. If I just reduced speed on the controller, I could take a cut at a suitable speed, but not a very heavy one. (Heavy is relative, the Myford does not take what the blokes in industry would call a heavy cut!) A shaper is not a machine that you would use if you were in a great hurry anyway, which is why they have largely vanished from industry. For the amateur, their charm is the low cost of tooling, and the fact that they are a charming and relaxing machine to watch. So for the Gingery, I would suggest that you probably do want to stick with a belt drive with stepped pullies or some equivalant. The final reduction, which on commercial shapers is usually a pair of gears, probably want to be a positive drive, eg at the minimum a toothed belt. One of my shapers has a synthetic resin bonded fibre gear for the bull wheel, which suggests to me that a toothed belt drive would stand up to the service OK. A shaper used properly does not impose enormous impact loads on the parts, although it can when accidents happen. In such a case the belt would be good, since it would jump a tooth , or at worst strip the belt, which is cheaper than a gear. I think the SRBF gear in mine may have been intended as a "weakest link", although an old repair to the slotted arm shows that this did not work out. Now that spare gears are no longer available, it becomes a bit of a worry, although I am sure I could make one if I had to. Can you mount the motor under the machine, below the top of the bench? It would mean the shaper would become part of the bench, but might help you to keep the bench space small. regards John |
dcosta | 27/05/2011 18:57:33 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello Bryan! Hello Keith! I made a small bad film (I even fell when making it) of it. I can send the film file in one of the following formats: VOB (best quality), MP4, MOV, WMV and FLV (worst quality). The longest (VOB) has around 350MB and the shortest (FLV) has around 32MB. If You are interested please send personal mail to me ([email protected]) with an adequate e-mail address.
Best regards Dias Costa
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dcosta | 04/06/2011 19:49:33 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello Bryan! Hello Keith! Hello Terry!
This afternoon I put a small video of the present situation of the works in my Gingery's shaper. As I wrote before it was made from aluminum plate instead of cast aluminum. It uses a timing belt and pulleys instead of a sprocket and chain. I still need to build the work table on top of the angle plate shown in the video. Then I will mount the machine on an appropriate bench. The motor will be replaced with a 1/2HP or a 3/4Hp. With the new motor in place, I will test the machine: first cutting plastic, then some soft metal like aluminum, and finally try to cut steel. If You are interested You can see it at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qimqVphwS0c Thanks for the interest Dias Costa Edited By Dias Costa on 04/06/2011 20:06:35 |
dcosta | 22/12/2013 16:45:36 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello all, good afternoon. |
Michael Gilligan | 22/12/2013 17:20:56 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Dias, I see nothing wrong with the general concept ... You may even persuade the Stepper Motor to do something extra-useful on a Shaper.
Magtrol makes Dynamometers, so their calculator should be good! As for the power requirements; that will depend upon the machine, and what you want it to do. MichaelG.
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Michael Gilligan | 22/12/2013 18:19:00 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Michael Gilligan on 22/12/2013 17:20:56:
. At the risk of stating the obvious ... You need to input the Motor's working Speed, as well as the Torque. ... it looks like the chosen motor might be useable if you can drive it at at least 3,000 rpm. MichaelG. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 22/12/2013 18:20:20 |
dcosta | 22/12/2013 19:25:23 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello MichaelG. Good evening. Edited: for correcting the calculator link Edited By dcosta on 22/12/2013 19:47:54 |
Michael Gilligan | 22/12/2013 19:39:45 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Hello Dias, Thank you for the good wishes ... The same to you and yours. Could you please insert the link for the calculator that you found ... I would be very interested. If the chosen motor can only run to 60rpm, then yes; it looks like you need a "normal" motor. Why, I wonder, are they so expensive in Portugal ??? MichaelG. |
dcosta | 22/12/2013 20:13:39 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello MichaelG . |
Versaboss | 22/12/2013 23:07:58 |
512 forum posts 77 photos | Hello Dias, why not Ebay? I was looking around a bit and under AC motors I found this as first entry: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AO-SMITH-1HP-AC-MOTOR-115-208-230VAC-60-50HZ-1725RPM-FRAME-56C-/350700213358?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51a75c946e You are lucky, they would send it to your country, but not to mine! Greetings, Hansrudolf |
Ian S C | 23/12/2013 11:36:21 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Dias, to get a lower speed, you could go to an 8 pole motor, 720rpm, or a 6 pole motor with 960 rpm, but these maybe hard to find, and expensive, the other way is a geared motor, probably a 4 pole type, 1450rpm, this would be more compact than a jack shaft and belts and pulleys. I think 1/2 hp would be enough for your machine. Ian S C |
dcosta | 26/12/2013 00:04:25 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello Hansrudolf. |
dcosta | 26/12/2013 00:16:00 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello Ian, good morning. |
dcosta | 26/12/2013 01:40:39 |
496 forum posts 207 photos | Hello Michael, good morning. |
Versaboss | 26/12/2013 10:31:33 |
512 forum posts 77 photos | Posted by dcosta on 26/12/2013 00:04:25:
Hello Dias, well if you have an issue with Ebay then that's your decision. But what intrigues me a bit is the remark about the Global Shipping Program. As far as I read the offer, this seller is shipping directly; I can't see a mentioning of G.P.S. The latter is a system where the seller sends his Item to a Ebay distribution center (in the U.S.) and they do (at a price I think) the final packaging and shipping. Ebay then also issues the final invoice to the buyer. Quite a complicated system; I hit on an article some days ago which I couldn't buy that way because Ebay didn't accept my address. Greetings, and all the best in 2014 Hansrudolf |
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