Warco WM250 headstock lubrication

MoosE.

Edited By MoosE on 07/11/2011 23:40:58

Edited By MoosE on 07/11/2011 23:44:56

Hi MoosE!

I have a problem simelar to yours. I have removed the spindle from the headstock, but the rear bearing is so tight on the spindle. So i haven't any possibillity to know how mutch force i put on the bearing when tighten the nut. Was this similar on yours?

Gunnar

Hi Gunnar,

I had exactly the same difficulty. The drive-side bearing inner race was so tight on the shaft it was impossible to "feel" for it tightening and consequent risk of further damaging the bearings. I carefully eased the shaft down with a strip of fine abrasive cloth, cleaned and oiled the shaft and re-assembled. Much better!

Did your bearing race and rollers look like those in the picture above?

I couldn't figure out how to remove the outer races without damaging the headstock casting so had to put the original bearings back. Used molybdenum disulphide grease (Castrol MS3) and the machine has since done a considerable amount of good work.

Cheers,

MoosE

I had a very hard job getting my 280 spindle bearings out when they suffered the same fate. Managed it in teh end and did get the outer races out of the head.

Fitted FAG bearings and it runs so much smoother now but still could not easily judge the load needed to tighten the bearings.

J

How easy was it to remove the bearing outer race from the headstock casting ?

Easier than getting the spindle out and the bearing off the chuck end but still not easy. I cut a bit of 1/2x1" to bear against the back of teh bearing shell, drilled the middle for M12 clearance and then used another bar against the outside of the head casting and then would it out with a M12 stud down the middle, still needed a lot of effort.

Anyone thinking of changing the bearings on one of these type of lathes would do well to have a look at this article on Arc Euro's site, there is a sketch of how to make up a puller to get the spindle out

J

Hi MoosE!

My bearing wasn't damage like your. I get more and more scattering when i use the lathe. So i tighten the nut on the drive side. It was realy difficult to tight it, use a lot of power before i get any change on the bearing. So when i start again it go well for about 30min. Then the bearing get a littel heat and i get a biggere resitens when turning the spindle. To loosen the bearing again it was so hard that i made a ters. It then get to loose so i was forced to remove it complete. I then do it same way as you, used a abrasive cloth. So i will mount it tonight and try again. Tank you for advice.

Gunnar

Just to put this all in context, I used a 5Ton hydraulic ram in a specially made jig to remove and refit simlar (larger) bearings. The final set up was done by measuring the rotational torque once the bearing was up to running temperature. I left the bearing fit on the spindle as per manufacturer. (damn tight).

Thanks KWIL, I'll know where to come if I have to do it again, hopefully not for a long time and I also added a grease point so I can pump in a bit now and then.

J

Jason, there is a photo added for your dilectation.

A very elegant solution, good job I didn't take any pictures when I did mine as the design was based on that of Mr Robinson.

You have also saved me some money, I had always fancied a M300 but if the bearings still need replacing like the far eastern lathes I'll stick with what I've got for now

J