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How do i machine this ( on the wonk)

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Ian Parkin15/02/2023 12:25:02
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1174 forum posts
303 photos

I have this part that i want to replicate

b6ff37d5-267a-40e8-aabd-b9bcd5a7f1cd.jpeg

The shaft to the left is concentric to the middle boss but the boss is 18mm on one side and 19.3mm on the other making the shaft to the right at a shallow angle.

how can i do this?

Howard Lewis15/02/2023 12:29:18
7227 forum posts
21 photos

How about turning the concentric areas in a 3 jaw, and then hold the long spindle in a four jaw to offset the right hand end for the thread cutting etc?

Howard

Ian Parkin15/02/2023 12:30:37
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1174 forum posts
303 photos

Well its not eccentric its bent

Martin Johnson 115/02/2023 12:49:33
320 forum posts
1 photos

Make a bush, but drill or bore it in the milling machine to the required angle. You could either set the mill head over to the angle or rig some sort of sine table arrangement.

Then machine one end of the part, hold in the wonky bush (grubscrew perhaps) with the bush held in 4 jaw chuck to machine the second end.

You still have the problem of getting the intersection of the two wonky axes in the right axial position. A bit more examination of the part needed to determine where and how important it is and how the OEM did it.

Martin

Robert Atkinson 215/02/2023 12:52:22
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1891 forum posts
37 photos

Get am excess length of stock and cut a couple of inches off. Turn the part on the left that is square to the large diameter. Drill / bore the excess stock at the correct angle to take the turned end. Then either slit it and hold in chuck. Alternatively loctite / glue / soft-solder it into the drilled part and chuck it. Now you can turn the angled end.

Robert Atkinson 215/02/2023 12:52:43
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1891 forum posts
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Martin types faster...

Ian Parkin15/02/2023 12:58:19
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1174 forum posts
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Brilliant thanks to martin and robert

DC31k15/02/2023 13:04:15
1186 forum posts
11 photos

On a lathe, ER collet block bolted to an angle plate bolted to the faceplate.

Make it out of two pieces silver soldered together, the joint on the RH end of the 35mm dia. part. It is easier to set up in the mill to bore an angled hole the receive the threaded part

Tony Pratt 115/02/2023 13:16:51
2319 forum posts
13 photos

Martin Johnson 1 has the right idea, why are people talking about making in 2 pieces?

Tony

Merddyn's Dad15/02/2023 13:30:32
20 forum posts

Between centres.

You need two centres in each end, in waste material, that'll keep the two ends in the correct position.

The offsets can be calculated or use a drawing, they'll be different for each end depending on where you want the intersection of the two halves to be.

One pair does the first bit the other pair do the other.

Steve

Ady115/02/2023 14:07:45
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6137 forum posts
893 photos

You need a lathe with a curved bed

Ian Parkin15/02/2023 14:59:00
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1174 forum posts
303 photos

Well i bodged it

turned the lot as one screw cut the threads and then cut with the bandsaw (1mm kerf) about 3/4 the way through the 35mm boss then squeezed it in the vice and welded it up

measures as well as my original

Its for a belt grinder the tracking adjustment for the pulley

Ady115/02/2023 15:09:07
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6137 forum posts
893 photos

I didn't want to say "weld it" because that's talking dirty

DiogenesII15/02/2023 18:31:08
859 forum posts
268 photos
Posted by Ady1 on 15/02/2023 14:07:45:

You need a lathe with a curved bed

Funnily enough I once bought a 4-jaw chuck from a man on Ebay which would probably have made a breeze of this job. The swine.

..Anyway, just out of interest, what's the make of the grinder? - it seems like a bit of a complicated manufacturing solution to a simple problem.

Ian Parkin15/02/2023 19:28:22
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1174 forum posts
303 photos

The original shaft is from a Robert sorby proedge

its a very elegant way of tracking the belt

DiogenesII15/02/2023 20:17:19
859 forum posts
268 photos

Ah, now you say it, it makes sense - I was just interested because it's rare to see a production part these days where other factors have influenced the design over just plain 'cheapness'..

yes

Martin Johnson 115/02/2023 21:14:08
320 forum posts
1 photos

I just realized there is an easier way.

Turn a bush to fit end a so part fits to the face of the bush.. Remove from chuck.

Grip the old part in chuck by end b. Mount the bush on end a, turn exterior of bush parallel.

You now have a wonky bush with correct throw, and a datum face to plant a part finished blank completed up to end a.

Grip bush and part finished part in chuck to finish end b.

No mill required.

Martin

Vic15/02/2023 22:47:51
3453 forum posts
23 photos
Posted by Ian Parkin on 15/02/2023 19:28:22:

The original shaft is from a Robert sorby proedge

its a very elegant way of tracking the belt

Perhaps not that elegant? The ProEdge requires the use of two Tommy bars to adjust the tracking whilst Axminsters Ultimate Edge just uses a single knob.

Ian Parkin16/02/2023 15:17:51
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1174 forum posts
303 photos

Vic

i can see that the Axminster one just has a knob…do you know how that works? Is it on a hinged spindle to adjust tracking? The sorby one whilst needing the tommy bars once set I’ve never adjusted it in all the time I’ve had it perhaps 7 years or so with many hundreds of belt swaps and new belts.

this is my finished machine for use in my metal working room…the genuine one is by my woodturning lathes

2d0000aa-86e3-4278-aecf-10b3c54444d6.jpeg

734b9726-1ed9-4f65-89d1-391e38cc1995.jpeg

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Ian Parkin16/02/2023 15:21:18
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1174 forum posts
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Oh and Martin j many thanks for that suggestion on how to make the bush..i was going to use your idea if my part didn’t work however it seems fine so far

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