William Ayerst | 27/10/2020 08:31:31 |
![]() 264 forum posts | Having just bought one, I need to mount my ML7 somewhere. I've read various discussions which suggest different options and just wanted to sanity check my decision! I'm going to be moving home soon, so a bench that can be disassembled and moved in a reasonable manner, given the other demands of house moving is somewhere on my priority list, albeit not at the top. This is what I was thinking of: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb1500d-engineers-steel-workbench/ - if rigidity is found to be less than ideal, then there is carrying capacity to add a kitchen counter worktop or a 6mm steel plate (cut to size for about £100 inc. vat https://www.buymetalonline.co.uk/product/mild-steel-sheet/) ontop of the existing one. Sealey sell the same bench, with the same weight but mark it as a 1000kg capacity so maybe the fixings can be upgraded. I am also happy to build one out of 4x2 and bolts, but with covid being what it is, I have limited access to browse and 'pop out to grab something I've forgotten'. Any thoughts? |
not done it yet | 27/10/2020 09:18:57 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | A Sealey AP2030BB Workbench with 5 Drawers Ball Bearing Slides Heavy-Dutywas sold underneath a Raglan lathe recently. No drip tray supplied, of course. I’ve no idea how good ,or otherwise, it may have been. I’m never keen on machinemart and expect their advertising to be more compelling than the actual item. Lathe stands often come up on auction sites and are likely a better buy? |
William Ayerst | 27/10/2020 09:19:41 |
![]() 264 forum posts | Or maybe something more simple, like this - with a kitchen countertop ontop of it: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb300-heavy-duty-workbench/. ?
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David George 1 | 27/10/2020 09:52:49 |
![]() 2110 forum posts 565 photos | I have a cupboard for my lathe support with a drip tray with a shallow angle lip for my lathe and mill. It works well as it is a superb storage for tooling etc. The tray cost me about £30.00 bent an d welded at local fabricator it is 3mm thick and with bent edge it is quite stiff.
The drill has now been replaced with a small mill.
David Edited By David George 1 on 27/10/2020 09:54:25 |
William Ayerst | 27/10/2020 10:00:08 |
![]() 264 forum posts | Thanks david, is that a bought cupboard? Do you have any front view pictures? 'not done it yet' , there are unfortunately no lathe stands anywhere near me at present, or they are half the price of the lathe itself. How much of a terrible idea would it be to buy the cheap steel/chipboard workbench above, and replace the surface with a kitchen countertop? Is it going to be a complete waste of time and money, or will it do in the interim until I can source a proper stand? |
Dave Halford | 27/10/2020 10:47:41 |
2536 forum posts 24 photos | Tool porn alert this is stupid money When Homebase was bought by the Aussies I got two of their blue 5 drawer cabinets, one has a Centec 2A on it + tooling the other has a shed load of tools and steel in it - no issues with either of them. I don't see strength would be an issue, they sold these then for £450+. The trouble with the one you picked might be the needing to cut the back down to clear the motor. There's a flatter version that would be better + the Myford weight would be nearly on the top of the legs anyway. Edited By Dave Halford on 27/10/2020 10:51:19 |
Maurice Taylor | 27/10/2020 10:50:30 |
275 forum posts 39 photos |
I would consider something like this ,this is my outside workbench . Very strong and cheap to make ,4 x 4 fence posts for legs and 18mm plywood top ,4inch screws to hold it together. Maurice |
William Ayerst | 27/10/2020 11:38:22 |
![]() 264 forum posts | Posted by Dave Halford on 27/10/2020 10:47:41:
Tool porn alert this is stupid money When Homebase was bought by the Aussies I got two of their blue 5 drawer cabinets, one has a Centec 2A on it + tooling the other has a shed load of tools and steel in it - no issues with either of them. I don't see strength would be an issue, they sold these then for £450+. The trouble with the one you picked might be the needing to cut the back down to clear the motor. There's a flatter version that would be better + the Myford weight would be nearly on the top of the legs anyway. Edited By Dave Halford on 27/10/2020 10:51:19 I was a bit worried that the cheaper one would be less rigid - but I guess if I'm going to end up putting a kitchentop ontop of it then that's fine. The linked drawer cabinet actually looks pretty perfect - I was consideirng buying one with drawers to try and keep some of the moisture off my tools as much as possible. Would it be OK with the wheels though? |
Maurice Taylor | 27/10/2020 11:42:32 |
275 forum posts 39 photos |
Maurice Edited By Maurice Taylor on 27/10/2020 11:44:45 |
Dave Halford | 27/10/2020 11:58:17 |
2536 forum posts 24 photos | Posted by William Ayerst on 27/10/2020 11:38:22:
Posted by Dave Halford on 27/10/2020 10:47:41:
Tool porn alert this is stupid money When Homebase was bought by the Aussies I got two of their blue 5 drawer cabinets, one has a Centec 2A on it + tooling the other has a shed load of tools and steel in it - no issues with either of them. I don't see strength would be an issue, they sold these then for £450+. The trouble with the one you picked might be the needing to cut the back down to clear the motor. There's a flatter version that would be better + the Myford weight would be nearly on the top of the legs anyway. Edited By Dave Halford on 27/10/2020 10:51:19 I was a bit worried that the cheaper one would be less rigid - but I guess if I'm going to end up putting a kitchentop ontop of it then that's fine. The linked drawer cabinet actually looks pretty perfect - I was consideirng buying one with drawers to try and keep some of the moisture off my tools as much as possible. Would it be OK with the wheels though? Wheels are not an issue with the Centec + big chucks, vices, industrial 6" rotary table. You will need a thin metal top or a bit of vinyl flooring to keep the oil drips in check. Don't leave it to long - as in go today if they have stock. |
peak4 | 27/10/2020 12:01:02 |
![]() 2207 forum posts 210 photos | If you're going to build something and cap it with kitchen worktop, I'd consider granite worktop (or maybe quartzite etc) Bill |
Dave Halford | 27/10/2020 12:14:22 |
2536 forum posts 24 photos | Posted by peak4 on 27/10/2020 12:01:02:
If you're going to build something and cap it with kitchen worktop, I'd consider granite worktop (or maybe quartzite etc) Bill Bill, I cut some granite tiles with an ordinary stone disc and got red hot lava from the cut |
Bazyle | 27/10/2020 12:42:52 |
![]() 6956 forum posts 229 photos | There are a lot of previous workbench threads on the forum you can also read. |
William Ayerst | 27/10/2020 14:22:28 |
![]() 264 forum posts | Thank you for the advice - I'm not a member of costco sadly but I do get the picture. Would this bench, with couple of layers of ply + alu sheet as a drip tray, be suitable? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb1201e-engineers-steel-workbench/ A more substantial version is available also: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cwb1500d-engineers-steel-workbench/ It looks like both might benefit from a cutout in the rear wall for the motor to slot through, but is already 2' deep so should be fine in width without it. My thoughts are that I can build non-supporting cupboard out of ply and slot it onto the shelf below, rather than attempting to cut thick ply by hand (for now I have a decent enough work space but no panel/band/circular saw) |
Howard Lewis | 27/10/2020 14:49:29 |
7227 forum posts 21 photos | FWIW, whatever bench is used to mount the lathe, it needs to be rigid. Risking a lot of flack, the ML7 is not a terribly rigid machine, so a bench that flexes will not improve accuracy. There is a lot to be said for the proverbial "Brick Mausoleum"! An overly substantial bench will be no problem for the machine. The converse is not true. L H Sparey advocates a substantial wooden bench. My personal preference would be for a steel bench made from substantial (at least 40mm ) angle iron or steel box section. (But that would not be so easy to dis assemble and transport ). One or more shelves, beneath would add rigidity, as well as providing useful storage space. (There will never be enough! ) The top to any bench could well be worktop, thickest that you can find, to maximise rigidity. If you are worried about oil, or coolant getting into the worktop through the mounting holes, you could always seal around the bolt holes with silicone before lowering the Myford into place. As an aside, a friend had a lathe which had once been on a warship. The bench was made of HEAVY channel section, with six legs. It was heavier than the lathe. Apparently the Naval rule was that the workshop equipment had to be able to withstand the effects of a broadside! HTH Howard |
William Ayerst | 27/10/2020 14:57:14 |
![]() 264 forum posts | I don't know how to weld, or know anyone who does - so this particular bench will have to be off the shelf |
Howard Lewis | 27/10/2020 15:20:46 |
7227 forum posts 21 photos | You can always bolt the bench together! That will make it easy to strip down for transport, when the time comes, with the individual parts each being lighter than the complete assembly. My mill ( About 200 Kg ) is bolted to a 60 x 30 inch steel bench that was cut in half, to go through the door and then the joints flitched by bolting on pieces of angle iron The bench also has ladder frames of 2.5" angle bolted to it, at each end, to act as runners for drawers carrying tools etc. So the bench probably weighs more than the Mill or the individual drawers! Howard |
David George 1 | 27/10/2020 15:22:32 |
![]() 2110 forum posts 565 photos | Hi William my cupboard is a damaged metal office cupboard with plywood reinforcing under top and shelves. It was cheap for sale from local office suplier. It has two shelves and double opening front doors. It contains all steady, spare chucks, faceplates, loads if drills taps etc. I have screwed a home made back shelf unit to it to hold spare material drills and cutting oil etc. David |
not done it yet | 27/10/2020 15:25:44 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | You seem fixated on machinemart. See my previous post. The stands made for the lathes worked. They were adequately rigid and clearly long-lived. Engineered for the job. Do remember that most of the weight of a lathe is concentrated at one end and that any out-of-balance operation may develop considerable stress on less than substantial items. There is one (auction item number:164461533084) on epay at the moment. Looks like starting at £100. |
Maurice Taylor | 27/10/2020 15:26:52 |
275 forum posts 39 photos | coolantPosted by William Ayerst on 27/10/2020 14:57:14:
I don't know how to weld, or know anyone who does - so this particular bench will have to be off the shelf I think this bench will be suitable.I would put a sheet of 18mm plywood on the top and also a sheet of thin steel or aluminium with edges turned up ,as even if you don’t use coolant, the oil from the bearings goes onto the top plate. The top has to be substantial to enable the lathe to be levelled . Hope this helps. Maurice The best option would be the stand on eBay as quoted by NDIY
Edited By Maurice Taylor on 27/10/2020 15:30:54 Edited By Maurice Taylor on 27/10/2020 15:32:42 Edited By Maurice Taylor on 27/10/2020 15:34:55 |
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