Harry Wilkes | 14/10/2019 10:28:14 |
![]() 1613 forum posts 72 photos | I've noted on many occasion the wheel hub caps on my 3" Burrell tarnish easily and have copper spots appear on them so I'm thinking that over the winter I may make some new ones, so what's the best grade of brass to use to get a good finish and polish ? H |
pgk pgk | 14/10/2019 11:26:36 |
2661 forum posts 294 photos | Is it daft to suggest gilding? |
Harry Wilkes | 14/10/2019 14:36:37 |
![]() 1613 forum posts 72 photos | Thanks for suggestion but I don't think it would be suitable, correct me if I,m mistaken H |
JasonB | 14/10/2019 14:40:52 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | gold plating won't tarnish |
HOWARDT | 14/10/2019 14:44:36 |
1081 forum posts 39 photos | C464 marine grade, will still tarnish but won’t pit. |
old mart | 14/10/2019 14:47:38 |
4655 forum posts 304 photos | I seem to remember a polish for brass which claimed to extend the life between polishing. |
Brian Wood | 14/10/2019 15:55:12 |
2742 forum posts 39 photos | Harry, Why not try a clear varnish after polishing? Rustins made a good one that works well and would save you the effort of making new caps. I agree with you that gold plating might look too bright; it does dull slightly with aging but the process is slow. Regards Brian Edited for punctuation. Edited By Brian Wood on 14/10/2019 15:56:04 |
Grindstone Cowboy | 14/10/2019 16:44:50 |
1160 forum posts 73 photos | I can heartily recommend Renaissance Wax to prevent tarnishing once you have polished them. And for the polishing, I'd go with Solvol Autosol. (Other suppliers are available, it was just the first link I found) Rob |
pgk pgk | 14/10/2019 16:56:23 |
2661 forum posts 294 photos | Posted by Brian Wood on 14/10/2019 15:55:12:
I agree with you that gold plating might look too bright; it does dull slightly with aging but the process is slow. I believe it's possible to get gilding foils in all sorts of metal colours and shades Also many moons ago I dismantled and re-lacquered an ancient saxaphone using cellulose rattle can that was essentailly a clear coat with a tint of brass. Not sure if that's still available (came from an auto paint shop in Uxbridge)
pgk |
SillyOldDuffer | 14/10/2019 17:58:15 |
10668 forum posts 2415 photos | The copper spots are appearing because of de-zincification suggesting the hubs are made from an ordinary high zinc brass. This stuff is easy to buy and nice to machine but not good at resisting corrosion. An alternative might be Naval Brass (CZ112) or CZ132, or even a low tin Bronze like Admiralty Brass. Finding someone to sell it in small quantities may be tricky. My quick web search only found people set up to sell to industry. Dunno how big the hubs are but if there's enough metal in scrap plumbing fittings, they're made of corrosion resistant alloys. Dave
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David George 1 | 14/10/2019 18:34:57 |
![]() 2110 forum posts 565 photos | You can get naval brass from M-machine metals. David |
Harry Wilkes | 15/10/2019 16:07:10 |
![]() 1613 forum posts 72 photos | Thanks for all the answers, I don't mind a quickly with the Brasso but the copper colored spots on the present one do annoyed me H |
Mick B1 | 15/10/2019 17:23:15 |
2444 forum posts 139 photos | Posted by Brian Wood on 14/10/2019 15:55:12:
Harry, Why not try a clear varnish after polishing? Rustins made a good one that works well and would save you the effort of making new caps. ... Brian
Their clear metal lacquer works well for me. |
Neil Wyatt | 15/10/2019 18:59:31 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | I used Windsor and Newton spray lacquer on the brass parts of this Westone Thunder 1 when I smartened it up. It works well and can be removed with White Spirit, it's meant for protecting artworks and for conservation of articles. The original lacquer came off with meths so may have been shellac. Neil |
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