Clamping

Hi Sean I would make an aluminium spacer with a split clamp through and then screw through the plates into the aluminium spacer to clamp the spacer between the two plates. The aluminium spacer would give bulk and carry away any heat from bearings as well. Make the aluminium spacer the same diameter as the square plates and use substantial cap screws to clamp spindle and fit a grub screw to Jack the gap open to help disembley .

Hope this helps David

Would welding them on be an option?

If you're a fan of "bigger stuff" welding can save a lot of hassle, Lidl and Aldi for example do a cheap inverter welder from time to time

Edited By Ady1 on 12/12/2017 09:42:40

You could do it without splitting and put a large grub screw in each side at the narrowest point to bear against the tube.

Or if you are going to split it then just drill a hole in from one edge to the saw cut, do the same from opposite sid eand tap then use a pinch bolt to tighten it up

Given that the bearing will require some form of protection and the apparent wall thickness around the bearing, would not a bearing protector that has screw fixing into the end wall and flanged enough for the attachment by screws to the square plate cover two requirements here.

Edited By Paul White 3 on 12/12/2017 10:25:58

Would welding them on be an option?

No (or very little) chance with this fellow. He hates welding because of possible warping. See his previous thread on making a riser block to fit on the machine.

Hi Sean

I think the following sketch drawings may suggest an alternative that will give a very rigid result.

Just drill and tap the front plate 4 x M12, Drill the back plate with 4x12mm holes and use M12 rod and lock nuts to carefully set the position of the plates.

Now insert your spindle unit.

Finally clamp two sides and a bottom to the unit to make a mould they can be anything that comes to hand, but before you attach them coat the inside surfaces with wax to stop epoxy sticking to them. OOps I have given the secret away. The unit will be filled with epoxy resin and bone dry sand, about 15% epoxy by volume, not that much really. I used this process to build a small grinder a while back. I use it almost every day to grind my lathe tools.

**LINK**

You will notice in the second see through illustration below I have added 4 long nuts for a possible base mounting point. You can cast attachment points anywhere you choose, just screw them to your mould plates in the correct position when set just remove the screws.

Regards
John

Edited By John McNamara on 12/12/2017 13:19:40

Sean,
Your plan is sound, drill the plates before slitting then drill clearance to the slit, then counter-bore for the fastener, then tap the section beyond the slit, a spiral flute tap would help to lift the swarf out of the hole,
Regards,
Nick

Made a bit more progress on the clamping for the spindle .

Spacers

Cutouts for the bolts . I don't have a tap long enough to get in to thread ,so I'm going with a through nut and bolt .

Used the 3" slitting saw for the cut out and an end mill to clean up the corners .Have to say that the slitting saw blade was no where near round (new blade) ,the 2" smaller blade I have is spot on . 

Sean

Edited By sean logie on 04/01/2018 08:32:55

Edited By sean logie on 04/01/2018 08:33:55