Warco T210 change wheels.

Hello everyone, I am new to the site and am looking for advice ref change wheel setup on my warco lathe to achieve a fine cutting feed, the lathe only came with seven change wheels and i have found it impossible to get a fine feed rate in any combination of the gears. Any advice would be greatly appreciated also any information as to where I could get additional gears from. The gears I have are,:- 

25t,  26t,  46,  48t,  60t,  61t,  63t,  all are prefixed Z. Many thanks Bill.

Hi Bill, I do not have a Warco lathe but most lathes show the feed rate obtained with given ratio on gear wheels then setting of position with the screw cutting /feed rate knobs/levers. It is not varied on change wheels alone. Does your lathe have separate feed shaft and lead screw ? It may be that you are keeping the lead screw "Live" and not selecting the power feed only.

Hello Bill,

Took a bit of digging, the Warco 210T is a Mashstroy lathe and apparently well regarded:

www.lathes.co.uk/mashstroy/

I think the answer is here: "For each setting of the changewheels the operator can select three sliding feeds, a useful facility that allowed jobs to be completed not only more quickly but also to a better standard. "

In other words it's a bit like my SC4, which has two sliding speeds for each change gear setup, except your lathe has three.

Presumably you need to use the levers of the headstock to choose the lowest ratio and combine that with your lowest ratio set of change wheels (dson't copy the habit of leaving the key in the chuck).

Warco 220T:

Mashstroy 210T:

Hi Neil, thanks for the reply, I have read the article at Lathes.co and it mentions disengageing the change wheels and engaging the friction, drive but I am at a loss how to engage it.

Hi Neil, thanks for the reply, I have read the article at Lathes.co and it mentions disengageing the change wheels and engaging the friction, drive but I am at a loss how to engage it.

Hi Neil, thanks for the reply, I have read the article at Lathes.co and it mentions disengageing the change wheels and engaging the friction, drive but I am at a loss how to engage it.

Hello Bill,

I have that lathe, and I do not think you have sufficient gearwheels. You should have:

20, 25, 26, 30, 35, 36, 38, 40, 44, 45, 48, 50, 60, 61, 63, & 64.

The Z doesn't mean anything. But you could consider it to mean No. of teeth.

I'll do a proper response for how to do fine feed later, ie tomorrow.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

Hi Peter, I thought I was missing a few gears, I have just read this article @ lathes.co.uk/mashtroy/ and it mentions dropping the gears and engaging the friction drive but I am at a loss how to do so, also would you have a link to a operate manual. Thanks 

Bill,

I can send you a copy of my manual - I've done it before so It's ready on the computer just to transmit via email. So, May I suggest that you send me a private message, said message to include your email address. Obviously, you can publish it in the full forum, but I suspect that you will wish to retain some privacy, hence using the private message system to start with. Unfortunately, I know of no other method of transferring all this data without using our personal emails.

The manual, or rather my manual, there being a better one floating around somewhere, is a strange mixture of Romanian English printed on a 9 pin dot matrix printer. It's description of how to use fine feed is perhaps not the easiest to understand, hence my earlier message about doing a proper response tomorrow.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

Hi Bill,

To add to what Peter has written, it may be worth adding that the friction drive involves using two parts to replace a pair of gears. If you are missing gears, it is likely you are also missing these components. As a fellow 220 owner, I'm sure we can come up with a solution as you will be unlikely to get any help from Warco.

You should have the threading chart on an aluminium plate attached to the inside of the changewheel cover. The manual gives a straight copy of that.

Z is a common designation for number of teeth used in Germany, Bulgaria etc.

Regards Chris

Hi Chris, the lathe came with very little in the way of accessories, it would be great to be able to use the friction drive as at this point in time I have no plans to do thread cutting, most of the parts I will be making are for my motorbike and don't require threading. Could you send me a photo of the parts you mentioned so I can reference them to their location on the lathe. Thanks.   

Hi Chris, the lathe came with very little in the way of accessories, it would be great to be able to use the friction drive as at this point in time I have no plans to do thread cutting, most of the parts I will be making are for my motorbike and don't require threading. Could you send me a photo of the parts you mentioned so I can reference them to their location on the lathe. Thanks.   

If you look at the link Neil posted above one of the pictures shows the 3 position lever and the text says:

" for normal turning the changewheels were disengaged and a friction drive employed, engaged by depressing a lever and moving it sideways to align with a feed-rate mark"

That's the big lever on the bottom front of the lathe headstock. The picture shows rates of 0.1, 0.15, and 0.2 mm/O. Is this what you did and found you couldn't get it slow enough?

From the picture in this previous thread **LINK** there appears to be a wheel without teeth in the changewheel section which must be part of the feed system.

.

For what it's worth:

English >>> German

Teeth >>> Zähne

Gear >>> Zahnrad

MichaelG.

Hello all,

As has been said, my first thought was that since some changewheels are missing, it may well be that other parts are missing as well. It was therefore my intention to photograph all the relevant parts in the position in which they would have been used, the idea being to allow Bill to be able to identify what he has or has not. This will obviously require me to dismantle my own lathe, not difficult as most of you know, but to do that, set things up and photograph them will take time, thus my saying I'll do it tomorrow, (now today). I was also going to write an English (as distinct from Romanian English!) set of instructions.

One of the reasons for doing this is to then have all this info in digital form, ready to send out in the future if required. This request for the manual is either the 3rd or the 4th time I've done it, so keeping the original scan on the computer is paying off as it's now so easy to send it out as a set of three emails with attachments.

If parts are missing, then obviously between us we will have to measure our existing equipment and create a set of drawings, but here again, once done and held digitally, it will then be available for ever. For example, after an accident (spot of carelessness) in which I broke the three-step pulley and had to make a new one, I should have those drawings somewhere already.

But, please don't let the above stop anyone from helping Bill, after all, that is one of the great things i've found about this hobby, the way people provide help and assistance.

And now, it's off for my daily exercise!!!!

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

Don't worry Peter, already in contact with Bill over the missing parts. Drawings done previously for a previous customer who didn't get the full set of spares with his machine.

Regards, Chris

Been in contact with Bill. He now has a copy of my manual. Plus a set of photos showing how fine feed is assembled and a somewhat hurried, but accurate I hope, set of instructions on how to set up for fine feed turning and how to engage it. I've also included a couple of tips re the leadscrew & mechanism.

I understand that Chris is dealing with Bill over drawings and all missing parts.

So there we are, a nice warm feeling after managing to help someone for once, rather than the other way round.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw