jeffrey cottrell 1 | 19/09/2017 17:31:27 |
6 forum posts | Hi All Have to say I am not a model engineer, rather a model helicopter pilot in need of a model engineer. So, any offers? Jeff |
Jeff Dayman | 19/09/2017 18:04:49 |
2356 forum posts 47 photos | Where are you? (country and nearest city) Distance will likely be a factor in assistance offered. A good sketch would be advisable. Micrometer measurements of the shaft and accurate measurement of the rotor bore with hole gauge/micrometer or go no-go check with pin gauges will be important to get best fit with least runout / inaccuracy. The adapter itself could be made on just about any lathe in one setup for max accuracy, but sizes must be known. I think securing the adapter in the rotor without affecting runout may be the real challenge here. Setscrews will not hold it secure enough for acceleration and deceleration during flight, likely, and will shove it off centre. Loctite 609 cylindrical retaining compound may work. How does the shaft normally get fastened to the rotor? is there a cone lock, spline, key plus e-ring etc? JD (Ontario Canada) |
Emgee | 19/09/2017 20:51:28 |
2610 forum posts 312 photos | Hi Jeffrey If you can obtain some 7mm OD with 1mm wall thickness tube will give you the 5mm bore you could cut a piece to suit the length needed, use high temp Loctite or simiar to secure the tube in place as needed as JD suggests. But as you state balance may be an issue unless you can set the complete modified rotor between centres and balance it by removing material from the heavy side, should be doable. Emgee typos Edited By Emgee on 19/09/2017 20:55:10 |
not done it yet | 19/09/2017 21:02:39 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | I would have thought that high strength is more important than high temperature loctite? How long is this shaft, and is it is coupled by a gear and not direct to the motor? |
Marcus Bowman | 19/09/2017 21:45:04 |
196 forum posts 2 photos | Can you post some photos in an album? Marcus
|
Emgee | 19/09/2017 21:45:16 |
2610 forum posts 312 photos | ndiy, read the post again and you will perhaps understand the question asked. Emgee |
jeffrey cottrell 1 | 19/09/2017 22:51:21 |
6 forum posts | Hi Guys Emgee If you can suggest a source of that tubing, I'd be happy to give it a try. Jeff Thanks for the quick reply. I think distance might be a problem. I'm in United Kingdom, about a third of the way round the planet. Ordinarily I'd say put the adaptor in the post, but I don't think that's feasible in this case. Anyway, bit of extra info. The shaft is held in the rotor by virtue of being a very tight fit. Sometimes needs the assistance of a hammer to get it in. There is a flat machined on the end, and a grubscrew fits in from the side, but I think that's only a second line of defence. Other than that, it's only friction keeping it in. That's the way the manufacturers do it, so good enough for me. Thanks Jeff (the other one) |
Keith Long | 19/09/2017 23:14:57 |
883 forum posts 11 photos | Macc Models have 7mm od brass tubing listed with a 0.45mm wall thickness - about £2.68 for a 300mm length. No doubt other model engineering suppliers and model shops stock it as well. I think the K&S metal tubing has a thinner wall but again a possible source. Edited By Keith Long on 19/09/2017 23:15:29 |
Neil Wyatt | 20/09/2017 06:44:51 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | If this is a brushless motor the length of shaft in the rotor will be very short, I think brass may prove too soft. It might be better to get someone to make you a new stepped shaft. |
JasonB | 20/09/2017 07:29:08 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Stepped shaft was probably the cause of teh original fracture where it changed from 7mm to 5mm Whoever makes it really needs the rotor so they can make the parts to fit rather than trying to give measurements when the OP probably has not got anything to measuer with. Can you revert back to 7mm in the motor and run the whole shaft as 7mm dia |
Chris Evans 6 | 20/09/2017 08:12:18 |
![]() 2156 forum posts | Sounds like a job for a piece of 7mm silver steel with the end reduced to 5mm. Maybe leave a small radius for strength and chamfer the mating part. I would most likely grind the piece for good concentricity. |
jeffrey cottrell 1 | 20/09/2017 09:05:51 |
6 forum posts | Hi All Thanks everyone for their thoughts. Keith Neil Jason Chris Bottom line, guys. Need someone with a lathe who is willing to drill a 5mm hole on a piece of 7mm brass. I can even supply the material to work with. Any takers? Jeff |
Emgee | 20/09/2017 10:59:32 |
2610 forum posts 312 photos | Hi Jeff For the concentricity between bore and OD you need for your application it is unlikely just drilling a 5mm hole through the unknown length of 7mm brass rod will be satisfactory, at least it would need drilling and reaming to size, preferably boring to reamer size at the start of the bore before using the reamer. What length is required ? Emgee
|
jeffrey cottrell 1 | 21/09/2017 11:46:49 |
6 forum posts | Hi All Much as I appreciate the level of engineering expertise available here, I do think the job is just getting too complicated. How about it, any takers? Jeff |
John Rudd | 21/09/2017 11:52:16 |
1479 forum posts 1 photos | Jeff, Private message sent...
|
Please login to post a reply.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.