Warco WM250

I have just bought a Warco WM250 lathe and got to use it for the 1st time this morning. I have been using it for an hour or so. I setup to part a piece of aluminum and started to cut. The lathe turned off and i cannot get it to power back on.

I checked the fuses and the E Stop and all seem ok.

Can anyone give me clue what might have happened.

Mike

Hi Mike, Have you checked the chuck guard interlock switch? There is also another interlock switch on the belt/ gears cover which can prevent the lathe starting. Hopefully it's something simple like that.

Cheers the Noo

John.

You mean the lathe is dead ? Is the revs display off? If it's similar to the WM280, take the cover at the back above the motor (held by 6 allen screws) inside there's the VFD and contactor. Check that nothing is tripped or wires loose.

Hi Mike
+1 for the check on above switches, the shaft the chuck guard swivels on can work loose on its fastenings & that will open the interlock, mine did, so worth checking that the SHCS are tight.

Cheers
George.

Thanks for your help.

I have checked everything suggested and cannot see anything wrong. i guess its a call to Warco on Monday morning. Not a good start for my new lathe

I hope it is something simple

"I checked the fuses">>

Mark - do you mean you checked the two glass fuse at the rear of the headstock? This sudden failure happened to me on my now departed WM250VF. The first time it was the interlock on the chuck guard. The next two times the speed control board failed and needed replacing. The second one was out of warranty and set me back £120.>>

An engineer at WARCO advised two things to protect the speed control board when using this lathe. Before pressing GO, wind the speed control back to zero and before pressing STOP you must also wind back to zero. It seems that not following this PITA procedure puts a strain on the speed control board. (If I remember right the Instruction manual offers this advice as well.)>>

As for fuse blowing problems the same engineer suggested a first line of defence by trying a 5amp fuse in the mains plug and increasing that to 10amp if the 5amp kept blowing. I can't remember now if the 5amp worked on mine - sorry.>>

I hope you get your machine working again without to much trouble - keep us informed how you get on.>>

Rik>>

My lathe suffered the same symptoms, the fuses were fine but a faulty fuseholder was the cause of the problem.

Good luck,

Mark.

Mike

It sounds very much like the fuse located between the on/off switch and the forward/reverse control. I found the fuse supplied with my machine, some years ago, was of very poor quality and blew early on. I purchased a pack of ten from Maplin expecting them to regularly fail however have not needed to replace again - pack just gathering dust on a nail above machine.

Hope this helps

Christopher

Christopher.

Is it possible please to describe exactly where the fuses are situated. My lathe is bolted close to the wall & whilst I can get my head in the space I cannot get far enough back to focus my glasses. Hence I have to use a mirror. I just cannot see the fuses.I have removed the front plates as well as the back plate.

I have removed the chuck guard & locked the spindle plus I have removed the gear casing key & taped it into the socket so I know that both of those are not the problem.

I have to press the on/off switches up to 6 times every time i want to start the lathe which is getting worse.It could be that a badly fitting fuse is the problem. Are they tube fuses or blade fuses?

To unbolt the lathe & lift it out would be a real pain as it is firmly bolted to steel stands & the bolts are distorted so cannot be easily removed to play about with connections

Thanks

Sam Longley

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 10/09/2017 16:23:31

Christopher

I tried a different fuse and still the lathe is dead. Will be calling Warco tomorrow morning to test their after sales service. I hope it's good.

Mike

My choice is the chuck guard interlock. I have had this go open circuit, twice on a friends lathe.

Andrew.

Sam

I have not found the need to replace any other fuse than the one located between the on/off switch and the forward/reverse switch which is of course accessed by just turning the cross slots with a screwdriver however, when looking at my operators manual it does not show the fuse located in this position but at the rear adjacent to the power lead entry point same type of fuse holder accessed externally. There are not any other fuses listed in my parts list and I have not had to dismantle this part of the lathe - rebuild the apron gear box when some swarf got in and jammed it bending a shaft (new gear & shaft £70, from memory), apron now added to carriage assembly.

My lathe is now 5 or 6 years old now, one of the first WM250V-F I think and of course later machines may be different, but it is free standing so whilst it can be moved to access the rear it is not easy because of the weight and I am not sure much will be gained by just peering inside. Perhaps Warco may be your best bet for info.

Christopher.

I have blown the fuses at the front and the rear of my WM250V-F, each at least once (but not both at same time)

Martin

Edited By Martin Whittle on 10/09/2017 18:05:26

Where is the one in the front please

The fuse holder is the round black thermoplastic thing on the front panel between the start/stop switch and the forward/reverse switch. Unscrew the centre using the screwdriver slot, and this cap will come out with the fuse.

You should be able to see clearly if the wire has blown.

The fuse is rated 10A quick-blow in a 5mm x 20mm case. Plenty of suppliers on ebay for around £2 for a pack of 10.

Just noticed the picture of the WM250 currently on the Warco site (with the 1100W motor, possibly 3-phase) does not have the fuse in this position.

My lathe is the older WM250V-F which I think has a 600W DC motor. Sorry to confuse you!

Martin

Sam - When the two rear fuses blew on mine I just had enough room between the lathe and the wall to get a stubby philips down there to remove the fuses. I did it by feel and when the fuse retaining cap came away without the fuse in it a bit of blu tack on the end of the screw driver soon fished the fuse out. (Does anyone use blu tack in the workshop like me? Absolutely indispensible stuff.

Rik

Edited By Rik Shaw on 10/09/2017 20:06:49

Thanks for everyone's help. It was the rear fuse and I did not see it when I looked on Saturday. I spoke to Warco and they explained where it was.

Going to order a pack of 10 fuses just in case. I saw on the internet that it was a 5amp fuse so I will check with Warco tomorrow when I give them the good news.

Thanks for all the replies

Mike