Member postings for Andrew Tinsley

I checked the EN58 billet this morning and found it was definitely magnetic. So that seems to throw a big spanner in the works!. I still think that the stamped label is of a professional nature. It is done on a circular pattern and spacing of letters and numbers is very precise. Can't see an amateur going to that length..

I will have a go at machining it later today.

Andrew.

I am suffering from the after effects of a Covid injection from yesterday. In a bit of a state right now and don' t fancy a trip to the workshop. Very dizzy and would probably fall.

Should be much improved tomorrow and I will check if it is magnetic or not. Didn't occur to me to check it before as the professional looking stamping said magnetic and I believed it. I should not be so trusting!

Andrew.

I am suffering from the after effects of a Covid injection from yesterday. In a bit of a state right now and don' t fancy a trip to the workshop. Very dizzy and would probably fall.

Should be much improved tomorrow and I will check if it is magnetic or not. Didn't occur to me to check it before as the professional looking stamping said magnetic and I believed it. I should not be so trusting!

Andrew.

One end of the billet is stamped EN58 Magnetic. The stamping is circular in pattern and looks to be professionally done. So no suffix such as EN58B.

I will give it a go and see if it machines acceptably, if not, then the scrap bin!

Thanks everyone,

Andrew.

I have a billet of EN58 and apart from knowing that it is a magnetic stainless steel, I am totally ignorant. Googling throws up lots of hits on its properties, but not what it is used for!

It probably needs to be weighed in!

Andrew.

Any idea where you can buy stoving enamel these days? Googling seems to throw up powder coating. I am not a fan of the latter and would love to use stoving enamel as I once did.

Andrew.

Any idea where you can buy stoving enamel these days? Googling seems to throw up powder coating. I am not a fan of the latter and would love to use stoving enamel as I once did.

Andrew.

Thanks everyone,

I did try using a chaser as described above by Speedy Builder. I wasn't too confident that it would work, but it did the job! Then Speedy neatly confirmed it

The thread profile was nothing like the old fashioned sawtooth (Same as on ripsaws) that the original had, however it held the mop securely enough. I will probably use the commercial variant in anger. But it is ego boosting when you get a result and it satisfied my curiosity.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Thanks everyone,

I did try using a chaser as described above by Speedy Builder. I wasn't too confident that it would work, but it did the job! Then Speedy neatly confirmed it

The thread profile was nothing like the old fashioned sawtooth (Same as on ripsaws) that the original had, however it held the mop securely enough. I will probably use the commercial variant in anger. But it is ego boosting when you get a result and it satisfied my curiosity.

Thanks again,

Andrew.

Lots of business management ads in the classifieds!!

Andrew.

Thanks all,

It is the challenge that intrigues me, I have purchased a pair of commercial "tails" and have also made a clamp system, which works well. So no problem in using the polishing mop . Thanks for your comments DC31k, I was thinking along similar lines, but your suggestions are more concrete. I shall give it a try.

Thanks,

Andrew.

I need to make a polishing mop tail. It is a straightforward turning and boring job. With the exception of putting a "thread" on the tapered nose. I think I am using the words tail and thread correctly, please tell me if I am wrong.

The thread on the existing taper Has one side at right angles to the axis and the other side at maybe 60 degrees.

The only way I can think of putting a thread on the conical taper is by using a hand graver. I don't think my graving skills are up to it!

So how do you thread the conical taper?

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 26/09/2023 11:31:50

I am sorry if my simple query has caused controversy. I have had only a little experience with ER collets and that was using a very high quality collet chuck and collets

I was thinking that it was better to get the best runout I could, on the inside of the collet chuck taper. My new collets are probably much worse than 1 thou runout (have yet to check!). That made me question why I was bothering making the collet chuck and buying collets, when I would normally use a 4 jaw chuck and set that up to a thou or less if I wanted good accuracy.

I suppose that it would give me speed of use, but then I am a slow worker and I simply enjoy what I do.. Made me think that I could have spent the cash more wisely.

Regards,

Andrew.

Hello Baz,

Thanks for your helpful comment. I did use the search function, but didn't come up with a run out figure that was deemed acceptable by the majority of model engineers. Perhaps you could point me to where to find such information on the forum.

Regards,

Andrew.

The 1 thou run out is repeatable when taking the chuck on and off. I have not tried it yet with a collet which is holding some stock.

Andrew.

Just machined a backplate for an ER32 collet chuck. I struck lucky and it has a total of 1 thou run out on the inside of the chuck. This set me thinking as to what run out, people would accept in a collet chuck?

Andrew.

Thanks Redsetter, all is now clear! Yes indeed there were two versions of the LMS tank one with straight boiler (Fowler) and the Stanier derivative with the later taper boiler.

Martin Evans certainly confused me!

Regards,

Andrew.

Highlly unlikely that an alpha particle could flip a bit. Their range in air is pretty short! More likely a gamma ray!

Andrew.

There was never a Fowler version of the Jubilee class. They were a new build with taper boiler, by Stanier. I think you are confusing the Jubilee class with the Royal Scots which were rebuilt from straight (Fowler) boilers to taper boilers by Stanier.

Andrew.

Edited By Andrew Tinsley on 01/09/2023 11:05:08

Thanks Jason!