Convertion of table saw into spindle moulder

I have a semi-professional Scheppach table saw with sliding fences and I would like to convert the table so that a medium sized router can be slung under the table and then the machine could be used as a spindle moulder. This would entail removing the saw surround plate, removing the blade and then replacing with a new plate which would then have the router permanently fixed to it.

I would need to devise some means of raising or lowering the router by means of an allen key adjustment from above the plate, as there is no side access at present. The moulder modification would need to be done so that I can revert to normal saw bench use when required.

Any thoughts on this would be welcome.

Mike.

Similar conversions have been written up a time or three. Some dedicated internet browsing might find one with useful ideas. I know I've scanned past such but, being subject of no interest to me as I have router table, did not bother to look deeper.

Clive.

Hi Mike,

I like ur style BUT......

first problem I see is that the spindle speed will not be fast enough......I run my routers between 13-18,000rpm

secondly, better to have the router bit in a vertical position....unless you have proper control the work piece will lift and be unstable.....you can fabricate a hold down but they get in the way........

with 1/2 a decent hand router mounted to a cheapo router table works quite well, less than a £100 would buy a used router with 1/2" and 1/4" collets and a new table.......

You must think of safety....do it the proper way......cheaper in the long run.........

Clogs

Clogs, I think the idea is to use the router much like you would in a router table but to make use of the saws sliding table, much like you get on combi machines.

Can't see why it can't be done, there are many router table inserts some with built in height adjusters or use the Trend router with the built in top access height adjustment and make your own rectangular plate to set into the top of your saw table.

Most I have seen mount the router in a separate outrigger table which allows the saws tee slot and rip fence to be used but this is usually on US style saws.

If the top of your sawtable is long enough mount the router behind the saw trunion so you can just lower the blade of the saw and then wind up the router, this is how combi machines do it though most have a proper spindle rather than a router. Note you will have to feed work from the opposite end of the machine when using the router to avoid climb cutting. This would also save you spending more time swapping between saw nad router than it would actually cutting

Edited By JasonB on 09/01/2017 17:41:27

Hi all, Jason.....

I see where ur going, I thought/assumed that ur going to mount the router chuck on the main spindle....i.e. using the r/bit horizontaly........

if so a couple of things I forgot to add, if the above is so, surely it'll, lengthwise be out of line with the where the table inserts go (also, induce wobble/vibration, even on my 3/4 ton Wadkin the spindle wasn't that good) and the other is the saw arbour won't raise enough to get all the cutting edge thru the plate......

My old cheapo r/table, now long gone did have a T slot with the sliding adjustable angle thingy....hahaha...grey hair moment.....it was around £35......

also, I like to feed the wood thru by hand so that u can get the perfect feed rate.......

my ally r/table complete with it's 3hp Hitachi router is not that heavy and is stored on a high shelf....I also have a problem with storage but this dedicated r/table is always ready for use.......I perfer to make shavings than mess about with machines.......

it seems a waste of time to disasemble the saw when a cheap option is readily available......mind I have seen some marvelous home made router tables.......perhaps that would be a good project to do......

I always fancied 1 of those American remote hight adjustment table inserts........couldn't justify the the high cost let alone the import duty.......

good luck.....I only want to help.......Clogs........

A couple of other thoughts I had

If you have no access to below for height adjustment how will you get at the collet & lock the router spindle to change bits and also how will you lock the height once adjusted?

Not sure what model saw you have but unles sits a "site saw" the table will be cast and I doubt the existing opening for sawblade access is large enough to take a router. So you will have to cay away teh table or mount the base of teh router below the thickening webs on teh tabel casting, this will limit what cutters you can use as the plunge won't be enough for small cutters to come above the table.

Like Clogs says a simple router table is the best option, I can't remember when I last used the tee slot on it, likewise the spindle moulder on my combi machine is rarely used with the sliding table so can't see the need to mount it in your saw if you are only doing it to make use of the slide.

Yes,

Intention was to fit the router with shaft in vertical plane. The main reason for my wanting to do the mod,, was that I often need to do fine cuts on the edge of panels and the existing fences would have been a plus. In addiiion the mod would have saved valuable space. The saw table is a TS 2010 (off the top of my head) and there is quite a bit of room underneath the top plate of the machine, which has the alloy removable type panels that comprise the top plate.

I can easily purchase a spare blade insert, which is around 5.00" wide and around 24.00* long and has a flat underside.

I will take a photo or two showing layout.

Mike.

Well made an in depth study of the bench and now a complete rethink !!

On the right side of the blade there is a fold down section of the table which will be ideal for mounting the router as

it is open on three sides underneath, so depth adjustment will be fine.

In an ideal world, if I could buy a dedicated router for this, then I would look for one with an allen type of adjustment that could then be operated through an accees hole in the folding table.

Sometimes you can't see the wood for the trees !!

Mike.

Mike,

This [just spotted on homeworkshop] may be of interest:

Details:
New Workzone Router Table with new 1200W router mounted on mobile wooden cabinet.
Depth of cut adjusted by means of small hydraulic jack.
Spare cutters included.

Terms:
Price: £55.00
Collection Only

Contact:
Norman Bailey
Warrington
WA5
UK
07775 624582

At least I have a choice. I can either bolt it to the drop-down shelf or buy a dedicated table for the router.

While investigating the above mod, I also had to change the nylon gear/rack that operates with the blade tilt mechanism. If the tilt wheel is not engaged fully, it tends to rip off the edges of the rack teeth, until all the teeth are gone.

I ordered a new part for around £20.00 all in, but trying to fit the blighter is a joke, as the machine is virtually built around the rack. In the end I found that only way to remove the rack was to remove one of the pivot bolts that supports the motor/blade assembly, which allowed it to drop enough to do the job.

At the same time I found that the blade is not exactly square to the table ,so have now corrected that . The underside of the table had been roughly ground away in the main spindle area to allow the blade assembly to sit square, but it needed a touch more fetteling.

I wondered if this had been done by Scheppach or by the UK supplier. Either way I was not too impressed.

Mike.

I made this one some 20 years back. It folds up to fit in the back of a car as I was using it to work on my boat at the marina. It takes up very little space when folded. The base is from an "el cheapo" Workmate. It probably took less time to build than converting a table saw. If I was doing it again I would use marine ply rather than MDF but I didn't expect it to have such a long working life.

Russell