Locomotive track

Hi

Really new to this aspect of model engineering , so bare with. I need about two meters of 3.5 inch track to place my engine on while working on it and for testing. The nearest supplier of aluminium track profile I could find to my location in Cambridge was in Kent, which makes the postage very high.

If I where to make up a length of track using flat steel bar would this be alright and not damage the wheels. I think I remember seeing something along these lines when visiting garden railways but not to sure.

Cheers Mike

Lots of tracks around the country use steel bar on edge as rail. Unless you've got wheels made out of cheese, they shouldn't suffer! If you're thinking of testing it, though, you could make up some rollers and let it sit on that. I've made a set for my Tom Rolt, as I imagine it will spend a lot of time going nowhere but testing out different draughting arrangements.

Hi Mike

For your use nearly any thing would do! For display, building or pushing up and down you could use hardwood, black mild steel is ideal a lot of clubs use this for there running lines. Are you not a member of Cambridge Model Engineers? If you are not why not join us and we could probably help you out from our pile of used. If really stuck I have some in the garden just in Suffolk.

Paul

Hi Mike, an opportune post as I have been pondering the same.

My 5" gauge "Emma Victoria" I am building is mounted on a couple of short lengths of steel angle screwed to a piece of board on my work bench and I have wondered if angle would be ok for a short length down the garden for testing (when I get to that stage, still some way off)

From replies it sounds as if it should be ok.

Like you, my first loco.

Good luck

Bill D

I just have a metre of 3/8" by 1/8" black mild welded to a few cross-bars.

Neil

Hi Bill

If doing much running do not run on the flange edge it could wear grooves in the wheels, try to aim for 8mm thick or greater for a 5" loco, running on the out side corner of the angle is good but makes supporting it more difficult

Happy steaming

Paul

Many thanks for replies, most helpful . Like the idea of using angle, makes the job very easy. Like the engine and your set up Nigel, and good luck with your first build Bill.

Regards Mike

i'm planning to use 15mm SHS which already has nice rounded edges and can be welded to steel cross-ties. Plan to make it in short sections. For joining all i'll need to do is insert a short length of 12mm square ground to fit and give it a touch with the welder. Should look like a modern version of tinplate track.

Would somebody be kind enough to confirm the track dimensions please i.e., if I prepare a similar short track section using either angle or rectangular bar, what is the correct spacing between the inside edges for 3 1/2" gauge. Is the answer simply 3 1/2"??

Phil H

Good point Phil. I just measured the distance between the outside flanges on my Rob Roy wheels. If I made my track exactly 3.5 inches there would be just 1/32 clearance each side between wheel and flange , sounds about right I suppose.

Mike

Sorry that should read 1/32 clearance between rail and flange.

Mike

Yes Phil, the gauge is normally the distance between the inside edges of the track - well, it would be for a scale 'bullhead' profile (at least it is in Gauge 3) - but a simple 'square' steel section rail might need just a wee bit more width.

(I say "normally" because some gauge widening often occurs on the tighter curves).

But maybe a MES member would be best commenting on this for you.

Regards,

IanT

Hi Mike,

Perhaps first to consider a rolling road test bed, as a 6 ft length of track wont be of much use.

If you want to make up a decent test track advertise on here for some local ali rail.

Or just join your local club?

Cheers,

Julian