MW | 24/10/2016 11:31:57 |
![]() 2052 forum posts 56 photos | Hi, So as the name suggests, i'm thinking this could be a place for anyone to display any useful bits and pieces they may have collected out of old, broken and disused items, to demonstrate it's amazing what you don't have to pay for! Here are some gubbins i managed to get out of an old asda pressure washer, from around the motor and gearbox section.. So, some decent M5 socket screws from the aluminium casing, a 10mm-ish steel shaft that could be turned again, a large ball race and some open face bearings and a steel gear, not quite sure what they could be useful for but anyone is welcome to post their findings too or any ideas with what to do with them. Michael W |
Frances IoM | 24/10/2016 13:55:28 |
1395 forum posts 30 photos | I was just about to ask re a number of domestic heating pumps obtained from my favourite scrappy all are same maker though different in small details - though I can find the manufacturer's documents they don't state the spindle speed nor how to get the pump rotor off the shaft - has any one else found a use for these small c 90W motors ? Edited By Frances IoM on 24/10/2016 13:56:03 |
Roger Williams 2 | 24/10/2016 15:32:48 |
368 forum posts 7 photos | Hello all, found this lathe tool sitting on top of a huge pile of scrap in a skip, with no insert in it . A box of DNMG inserts for £8 off ebay , £3 for a screw and shim, milled a few thou off the top, bingo, a cracking addition for the workshop !!. |
MW | 24/10/2016 17:07:45 |
![]() 2052 forum posts 56 photos | Hi guys, thanks for the responses, Frances IoM, thats a pretty good haul, they are definitely useful as these small DC motors can be used to make a power leadscrew for a mini lathe with the appropriate speed controller curcuit from ebay, at around £10 cost, get a mini plug type transformer and a centre on off on, switch and you've got a reversable speed controlled motor! I'm gonna take a shot in the dark and say i reckon the shaft speed would be around 6000rpm without any gearing, you could obviously take it down a notch with the gearing or a pulley, the shaft speed is normally pretty high without it. Going by the size of it i think it might be a 24v motor? Roger W, thats an amazing find for a scrap yard, looks like a premium holder, I want to stake out your scrapyards at some point! I'll stay tuned because i'm always turning up new junk from somewhere and doubtless others will be too! Michael W Edited By Michael Walters on 24/10/2016 17:08:35 |
Nick_G | 24/10/2016 17:13:50 |
![]() 1808 forum posts 744 photos | Posted by Michael Walters on 24/10/2016 17:07:45:
Hi guys, thanks for the responses,
Frances IoM, thats a pretty good haul, they are definitely useful as these small DC motors
Going by the size of it i think it might be a 24v motor?
. Michael, It says 240 volts and AC on it. - Take your swarf protection glasses off.
Nick |
Frances IoM | 24/10/2016 17:15:07 |
1395 forum posts 30 photos | they are all 240V a/c motors with a 2.5uF start capacitor - 24Vdc would have been very convenient (tho did pick up a 12V window winder) I'm away from my workshop so can't check speed but my guess is nearer 600rpm than 6000! so somewhere there is probably a gear once I work out how to get the pump rotor off |
JasonB | 24/10/2016 17:35:01 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Frances, if run dry these motors get very hot, much too hot to touch and if you put water through them in that state they will flash to steam. You should be able to slide the whole rotor and impellor out of the housing but they can corrode but don't think you will find any gears, speed control is all electronic
make quite economical pond pumps |
Frances IoM | 24/10/2016 18:03:14 |
1395 forum posts 30 photos | I've just been running one for maybe 15min - yes it get slightly warm but not hot at least as felt on outer case - 2 are switchable between 3 speeds - it seems by switching windings - they run v quiet when pump rotor is in vertical plane - when in horizontal there is some noise that might be gearing - are they not sealed from the pumped liquid ? |
Roger Williams 2 | 24/10/2016 18:11:00 |
368 forum posts 7 photos | Michael, the skip was outside of an engineering business/ hydraulics repair shop (Derek Lane & Co near Exeter, now moved ). It makes me wonder what else they chucked away. Scrapyards wont let people wander around them down here .... health and safety. |
martin perman | 24/10/2016 18:24:03 |
![]() 2095 forum posts 75 photos | my usual haul comes from my work, when we install a large industrial washing machine, 3m wide 4m long and 4m high, it comes in kit form, the parts of the machine have to go through a standard door. To build the machine lifting jigs or trolleys to move the parts are supplied by our Italian parents all made from 316 stainless 10mm thick with 20mm axles, we are told to bin it when we have finished, the young engineers dont want it so I and a colleague share it, some of the best bits are transport plates two metres long 150 wide and 6mm thick with a few holes in it. I used to collect casters made of stainless with nylon wheels by the hundred off of equipment which is wheeled out of a truck and into a building where we replaced them with feet to stand on.
Martin P |
John Baguley | 24/10/2016 20:55:29 |
![]() 517 forum posts 57 photos | Frances, I'm sure that the bearings on the ch pumps are water lubricated which is why they are not sealed from the liquid. I doubt if they will last long being run dry. As Jason suggests, they can be used for pond pumps but are not self priming. I've never found them to last very long in that application though. John |
Nicholas Farr | 24/10/2016 22:02:04 |
![]() 3988 forum posts 1799 photos | Hi Frances, your C/H pumps are not really much good for anything but circulating the water in a C/H system. As has been said, yes they need the water in the bearings for lubrication and the bearings a very likely to be ceramic. The coils and the electronics are totally sealed from the water, but the rotor and shaft continuously run in water and that's the reason for the big screwdriver plug on the back, so as to be able to remove any air inside to insure they are full of water. There are no gears inside, the impellor is fix directly onto the rotor shaft and they don't run very fast and if they pump very dirty water they will soon jam up and burn out, which is what happens to most of them in C/H systems without any anti-corrosion additive. They won't even pump a very high head of water either. Never tried them as coolant pumps, but if you do, you'll have to keep the coolant free from even the smallest size of swarf, especially ferrous metals. Regards Nick. |
Clive Hartland | 24/10/2016 22:15:00 |
![]() 2929 forum posts 41 photos | Every year before I start my heating system I undo the plug and rotate the spindle and it does sometimes feel very gritty to turn. It all runs fine after that. They are not very powerful and only push the water at a low pressure. You might have to split the impeller boss to get it off. Clive |
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