Pulley wheels I think‽

Hi,

Hope you've all recovered since my last insane request. Because it the weekend my mind is working overtime and I'm struggling.

I'm trying to find some pulley wheels to upgrade a 44mm diameter table saw. My problem is I can source drive shafts. I can source mounted bearings. But I need to transfer the power from one pulley to another via the drive shaft which means that the drive shaft need to be fixed to the pulley. I assume similar to the old mechano style pullies but be capable of turning at 5000 rpm without exploding. Now my terminology is always faulty and open to correction but I'm hopeful the reference to the old construction kit even if spelt wrong. Helps.

I am also on the hunt for a flanged arbour for the same to hold a 10mm bore 58mm saw blade.

For some reason it seems only the USA has these sorts of thing but as the postage is four time the cost of the part it's not a goer. Even if some one is willing to create these things I'm willing to pay a fair price. I just want to get them.

Please can anyone help‽ ?

Your friendly neighbourhood nutter.

Izzy

Are you describing plummer blocks & shaft

If so then as a starter try http://www.arvis.co.uk/products.php?product=33

then start googling around that

I do recall seeing saw table sets years ago which had a shaft mounted on 2 plummer blocks & machined to take pulley one end & sawblade the other. Try J & M Belts or a bearing supplier & they may be able to source a suitable set

.

Izzy,

Look for an old Picador catalogue ... you should find plenty of inspiration along the lines that Sam suggests.

MichaelG.

Unless I've very much misunderstood the original posting, I think izzy is going to have difficulty finding plummer blocks small enough to accommodate a saw blade of 58mm diameter. At 5000rpm, you are getting towards Dremel speeds! A picture of the set up with the original 44mm blade might help us to visualise what you are trying to achieve. I have in my mind a saw table for producing matchsticks, at that size!

John

Good point, John

I was only suggesting the old Picador products for 'inspiration'

MichaelG.

.

Also worth looking at this article about a miniature Spindle Moulder [thanks, Neil]; which is on the right sort of scale.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 05/03/2016 07:27:00

> My problem is I can source drive shafts. I can source mounted bearings.

Not sure Izzy needs help finding plummer blocks... he wants small pulley that will lock to the shaft and be OK for 5000 rpm.

I suggest looking for H-section poly-vee pulleys and belts.

www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/belts/poly-v-belts/

A suitable flange wouldn't be hard to turn from scratch.

Neil

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Neil,

I can find the H-section poly-vee belts, but no suitable pulleys

MichaelG.

Second table down, belt pullies for 8mm shafts. I'd go with round belting as the pullies are going to need to be quite small dia particularly the one on the saw spindle if you are going to get any depth of cut.

HPC have the poly V pullies but they start at about 60mm dia

What bore is the existing 44mm blade? may just be able to use a bush to allow the new 10mm one to fit the existing flange

Edited By JasonB on 05/03/2016 10:21:38

I think Meccano pullies would be safe at 5000 rpm. Search on ebay for "meccano pulley"

Les.

> I'd go with round belting as the pullies are going to need to be quite small dia particularly the one on the saw spindle if you are going to get any depth of cut.

The minimum diameter for H-section poly v is 13mm and you can have any amount fo power transfer just by making it wider.

They can be very compact, if you can find someone who stocks or can order goodyear belts the smallest is 100H which gives you a centre distance of about 30mm with 13mm pulleys.

Neil

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+1

... assuming that you can buy [afford], or make suitable pulleys.

MichaelG.

Proxxon's FET table saw runs at 7000rpm and uses Optibelt toothed drive belt. Their saw bore is 10mm dia.

I suspect you have to make - they are little used by industry but turn up in copiers, printers and the like.

Very easy to make, but I'm not sure if Isaac has a lathe?

If not, time to get one

Neil

Hi,

Sorry for the late replies I've been out all day with family. I've not read anything yet but I'm sure your advice is invaluable as always.

Thanks in advance

Hi,

I thank you all. And I think my main issue is either I don't know the right name for what I need or as with Sam and such is that they don't do this sort of thing nowadays.

The original flange for the 44mm blade is bore/shaft. It. Was the extra width of the proxxon b,aides I was hopeful of using. Hence the wish for a 10mm shaft with flange.

But I can get toothed pullies used for 3D printers that have a grub screw and would work. I assume. But that means using a toothed belt. Which if the blade should jam then I can see the motor burning out. It just seem odd that there is nothing orpther than mechano which I did consider but I'm concerned with the the rpm and the off balance scre used and the fact that most are just pressed plate.

The 5000 rpm I got from the proxxon specs so I must have read them wrong. But that is the sort of thing I'm hopeful of making but as I've got six 12v motors and three sewing machine motors I want the flexibility of being able to change the motors as they wear out. But I can't do that with the modern direct drive we use here. Hence the need for pullies as gears would be to much of a strain on the motor but with idlers pullies to tension the belts. I can then make a tilting variable depth saw from a £30 model. And this is for making parts of similar dimensions to matches up to say 6mm acrylic and 20mm soft wood. And as the existing saw which is just a motor a grub screw flange and a switch. I have to make my own table then so long as the pullies are all the same size the speed should remain constant. But where to get the pullies required to transmit the power through the shaft so that the blade can tilt and rise and fall. Which needs at least two separate sections preferably three. So that's two shaft the power need to go along.

This is exact what I need perhaps I a smallest sizes. As for pulley belts there are lads to choose from for RC cars. Which are cheap and short. I've got a way of fabricating a main drive shaft but was hopeful someone may be able to direct me to one ready made as my method is ver Heath Robinson. But will work.

I do have a lathe a very small uni at style one. But I lack the skills and confidence for that to be the prime option and was hopeful that I could buy first and replace with better.

This is exactly the sort of working end I'm after but with the ability to tilt and rise and fall. For a table saw as it would this on its side. With two cams and worm screws for the tilting and riser.these are the bits that would have the power going through them as the drive shaft is also the pivot point. As the pivot point is actually the moving part not the pivot. But as it moves in an arc the centres remain the same. Hence the use of pullies to balance out the force or it would all be on one side causing very bad torque and inaccurate cuts.

Sorry that should have read I have a small 300mm centre Unimat style lathe. Works great if it wasn't for the nutter using it.

If anyone reads this silly question

As I can get hold of the right sort of pullies I think I want. But they have teeth. And so do the belts which are flat.

But apart from the reduced friction side would it be possible to run a toothed belt inside out. That is with the smooth side contacting the pulley?

That way I'd relive the issue of over friction and allow the belts to slip if needed. Or would they just slip completely without excessive tension?