Robin Graham | 16/08/2015 23:39:49 |
1089 forum posts 345 photos | Hi. I had a jam-up drilling from the tailstock using a 19mm blacksmith's drill - result is that the keyless chuck I was using has 'self tightened' beyond ever loosening it seems. The most brute force I've applied is holding one part in the vice and using a chain (oil pump) wrench on t'other, (OK, so not a lot) but I can't budge it. Internet search suggested whacking the end of the bit inwards towards the chuck, but that's not worked. Any ideas bar sticking it in a drawer labelled '19mm drill and chuck assembly (complete)'? Robin |
John Haine | 17/08/2015 08:24:19 |
5563 forum posts 322 photos | I made a couple of fixtures to hold an Albrecht that needed cleaning up and so needed to be dismantled. Something similar would probably allow you to take the chuck to pieces to release it. I'll try to take some photos tonight. What size is your chuck? I could lend you them if they would fit, and I can find them! |
Martin Kyte | 17/08/2015 09:09:14 |
![]() 3445 forum posts 62 photos | If all else fails and assuming the end of the drill is soft. Cut the drill off close to the chuck jaws and drill or bore out to 18mm or so. The remaining 'tube' will probably collapse enough to enable the chuck to be loosened. Martin |
Ajohnw | 17/08/2015 09:12:48 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | These drills work by pushing the front part of the body back so try pulling as you undo it. Failing that see if you can lever the front of the body forwards. There isn't a lot of free play when the chuck is loose so little movement is needed. John - |
Neil Wyatt | 17/08/2015 09:13:55 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Might be worth trying freezer spray on different parts, or putting it in the freezer then dipping the outer shell in warm water? |
Ian S C | 17/08/2015 12:07:53 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Martin, you beat me to it, there should be enough soft shank protruding from the chuck to get at with a hacksaw, or a thin cut off wheel on the angle grinder. I think it may be a good idea not to place the shaft of the drill hard against the end of the chuck before tightening it, as the drill gets drawn into the chuck (a few thou). Ian S C |
davidsuffolk | 17/08/2015 12:52:24 |
48 forum posts 8 photos | Sorry to bring a non engineering solution into play but when I have had a key less chuck lock up I found two large Stilsons in opposite directions have always worked sometimes with the the help of a BGH. |
Swarf, Mostly! | 17/08/2015 13:32:53 |
753 forum posts 80 photos | Hi there, Robin, Here, if I can make it work, is a link to a YouTube video by Tom Lipton (aka 'Oxtoolco' ) entitled 'Albrecht Chuck Rebuild'. Be patient until the advert has finished - it only lasts a few seconds!!!! I thought this might be of interest. Best regards, Swarf, Mostly! Edited By Swarf, Mostly! on 17/08/2015 13:35:23 |
Clive Foster | 17/08/2015 13:42:37 |
3630 forum posts 128 photos | Although I've done the Stilsons trick in retrospect there is considerable risk of distorting the hood, which is quite thin in places, thereby preventing the chuck from working properly ever again. I know plenty of folk have successfully used this technique but after jamming up a chuck I'm pretty sure that I'm not feeling lucky today so further exciting the workshop gremlin colony seems less than prudent! That said when I did the stilson trick the push needed to release was pretty modest. Getting somewhere near the monster heave needed to shift rusted iron pipe fittings would be a whole 'nother story. Best option is probably to remove the hood in the manner prescribed when stripping the chuck for servicing. As soon as the hood starts to unscrew pressure will be released. Having started you might as well take the thing completely apart for a proper birthday. This **LINK** shows what is involved along with simple, safe to use tooling for taking it apart. I believe all engineering keyless chucks are essentially similar to the Albrecht layout. Searching Goodgle for rebuilding an Albrecht chuck comes up with plenty of nice pictures so you can see what you are going to have to deal with, before you drop all those balls too. Drill slipping back and associated jamming are generally considered strong indicators that servicing is needed anyway. Its important that the inside of the hood isn't completely smooth. It needs to be lightly scuffed, 320 grit abrasive is said to leave the right finish, so that the jaws can get a grip on it even when oily. This grip is important if the self tightening is to work efficiently. Clive. |
Robin Graham | 17/08/2015 21:29:05 |
1089 forum posts 345 photos | Thanks for replies. Made a clamping block as in Swarf's video link then stilson with copper sheet between the jaws and the hood as recommended in the vid. Took a bit of brute force but - success! Chuck seems undamaged, not an Albrecht sadly, but glad to have rescued it. Regards, Robin |
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