Burnerd ec collets...dismantling

Does anyone know how to remove the blades and springs from burnerd ec collets

I have a set which look almost unused but are sticky they wont open up after closing without help

Theres a washer at the front which looks like if that came off the blades would slide out

or am i missing a trick

Ian

Ian,

I wouldn't bother taking them apart. A good lashing of WD 40 or similar will cure the stiffness. Follow up with some general purpose oil. The forces involved in their use will easily overcome any perceived stiffness.

Rgds,
John

Ive tried that no joy so far

From a distant memory you take the 'large washer/cover' off, release the springs carefully & remove the blades, I think

Tony

I dont seem to be able to get the washer off it looks like it may fit into a shallow groove

The washer got on there so you must be able to remove it?

Tony

Well i sacrificed a collet that had broken blades and i'm still not the wiser how to get it to bits

I removed the springs first thinking that one blade might slip in and pull through the middle

But then had to remove the washer with a big screwdriver and hammer...it does fit into a groove

The blades were really gummy I dont think any amount of solvent would have got these clean

The washer does fit into a groove in the collet body without the blades the washer would possibly spring the body inwards letting the washer slip into the groove but then I cant get the blades in

anybody any idea's

Edited By Ian Parkin on 10/07/2015 09:44:07

When you say 'gummy' do you mean dried coolant and oil that has turned into something similar to tar.?

If so just chuck them into a bowl of cellulose thinners of nail varnish remover for a while then wipe off and relubricate. You may have to do this a couple of times.

Nick

.

If you put them into the chuck with nothing to grip on and tighten them down will the washer then not slip off.?

Nick

I was thinking of putting a jubilee clip around the collet, and tighten it up, maybe that will compress it enough to remove the washer.

Ian S C

I think I've sorted it now

I've flattened the washer and by compressing the body the washer slips on...it wont compress when the blades are in

3 blades slip in easily into say 1,2 and 3 position

the others have to go in cock eyed but they eventually slipped into place

then replace the springs and its good to go

The blades are such a good sliding fit and very limited movement < 2mm that i'm not sure that solvent will get in and remove the varnish like substance

But now I know how to take them to bits so alls well

.

To solvent 2mm would be seen as an ocean.

Nick

Just to be clear the 1.5mm movement is the in and out sliding radially so the varnish thats sticking the blade will not come out . the solvent may go in but the varnish will reharden after a while....the fit is very tight in the body even with no lube

I did try soaking in mek for a while

Hi Ian

Just a thought... have you tried an ultrasonic cleaner? Maplin, and others do a mechanical one , try googling "James Products Ultra 7000 Ultrasonic Cleaner" Its around £45, It may save you all the trouble of dismantling each collet. If you near Leeds I have one for you to try

Tony

Sounds from what you are saying that you reckon you can just about get the blades out without touching the washer. And I see there are several more pictures in your album. Judging by the chamfered blades, this is one of the smaller sized collets, like around 1/8" (ie biggest blades) so possibly the most tricky to dismantle. Can't read the size from the photos.

There seem to be variants on the design, such as the ones shown in this thread. The interesting things is that here the washer is held in by screws or bolts, which rather supports the suspicion that the washer is what holds the blades in place.

As your slots and blades are bunged up at the moment, it won't be easy to compress the body much at all. However, after cleaning up it may be possible to compress the body enough to remove the washer. How deep is the groove and what clearance do you measure between the blade and slot, once cleaned up? You probably need a special tool to compress the body with these non-bolted examples, which may the main reason it's proving so challenging.

To clean the blades, I'd use a green pot scrubber fitted to a power sander (the sort with the hook and loop pad) and loads of WD40 / Gunk etc - and some form of blade to get the scrubber into the slots in the body.

Murray

Hi,

Having used this old discussion as reference, I'd like to add how I was able to move a lot of stuck multisize collet blades again, after having bought two sets (really old and old stock):

I applied pure acetone with a paint brush and put the collet in plastic zip bags to keep the solvent from evaporating. The blades start moving under finger pressure after about 30 minutes or an hour, with little use of acetone.

The idea is a combined form of:

- Nick's method (this thread) "...into a bowl of cellulose thinners of nail varnish remover".

- A 2012 document "WD-40 Alternative: Final Design Report" testing and suggesting oil mixed with acetone as penetrating oil. (But the figures in the report tell that pure acetone works even better.)
https://www.engineeringforchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/ENGR103-WD40Alternative-FinReport.pdf

- "Cuisine sous vide" techniques, where you keep meat juice close to the meat in plastic bags, while cooking slowly at low temperature.

- The technique of using small recipients with special solvents in big ultrasonic cleaners:
https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/best-way-to-use-larger-ultrasonic-cleaner-for-tiny-parts.53026/

Hope that helps someone!
Bernt

Just a thought, Caustic Soda would soften even the most obstinate dried oil/grease. Remember to add the caustic to water not the other way round and note that it will get hot when being mixed. Don't use it on aluminium. I know Caustic is nasty stuff but acetone is highly flammable.

HTH

Dave

I realise that this is an old thread but I wondered if anyone does know of a (non-destructive) method of disassembling these collets for cleaning? Reading the above, I'm not sure if it was found to be possible or not.

I have a couple of collets that have a little corrosion on the blades (and one with a load on the inside of the body) that I would ideally like to try and clean up separately from the main body.

Please read the thread, your question was answered back in 2015 by Ian Parkin.

Tony

FWIW, I have a note of a post by someone here about dismantling Burnerd Multisize collets:

"Well my collets certainly dont have that warning on they are quite easy to take to bits once you know how springs off move one leaf at a time into the centre move slightly back to the rear leafs slide out then easy on the larger sizes more difficult on the smaller ones"

The "warning" was against dismantling!