Myford ML7 or Super 7

Hi all,

can anyone give me a rough guide to the difference between a Myford 7 and a super 7.........

also is the super 7 worth 10% - 20% more etc......?

I'm looking at a clean machine on a bench with drawers and a drip try, as for tooling no idea yet.......but would like to be fair with my offer........

many thanks Clogs

Hi Clogs

When I was buying my Myford new in 1971 I had a look at both the Super 7 and the ML7, and decided that I just had to afford the Super 7. The Super 7 has a much better (higher) speed range with spindle bearings to cope, more powerful motor as standard, a self ejecting tailstock, clutch, longer cross slide, better top slide with full 360 degree rotation, etc, etc. Also power cross feed with the later machines.

For more information about these machines I'd suggest that you have a look at **LINK**.

You will almost certainly pay more for a Super 7 of equivalent age and condition, but I think that you'll find the extra expense is well worth it, If you can find a machine with a gearbox (screw-cutting) then so much the better as it will give you a good range of power feeds as well.

Good luck with your hunt for a machine.

Regards, Roger

why not get a boxford

Hi again, and thanks for the reply......

Paul, no problem with a Boxford at all, it's just that the Myford is a friends house being stored for his F/in law.....

and it's in the next village.......

I regret selling my one owner Super 7 awhile ago, my Colchester Student is fine but a small machine would come in handy.......and apart from that there is a few other machines to be had and I want to pay my way fairly.....

thanks again Clogs.........

The ML7 is a very early design and works well. It has Plain bearings and won't work at higher speeds.
For most Model Engineering a good ML7 is about all you need from the Myford range.
The ML7-R Is an updated version of the ML7. It has a few more refinements, Proper bearings. Higher speeds to boot. It's much nicer to use and generally sell for very little more than ML7's.
If you have to compromise a good ML7-R is a better machine to go for.

Super 7's in good condition are much sought after and command top prices. Are they really that much better is open to debate. The Power Cross feed is a very nice thing to have and about the only thing that's not available for the ML7-R

There are other Lathes out there. A Good Boxford ? or one of the Smaller Colchester Lathes ?

Even the Chinese lathes have come a long way.
Something like the Amadeal AMA250AVF-550 or similar from other Suppliers.

I thought the ML7R was basically just the old Super 7 minus a clutch and the long cross slide. Introduced after the more exotic power cross feed models came out, I'm not sure but I think they had the self ejecting tail stock.

I've owned both the old ML7 and currently own the original Super 7 (with the glass sight oiler). As the ML7 was setup much better it turned much smoother.

I've seen traditional ML7 selling between sub £300 (utter basket case, no accessories) and £1000 (with stand and accessories, immaculate condition, no VFD's or DRO's)

I've seen basic non power cross feed Super 7's go between £450 and £1250.

Plus £250-£350 for a gearbox?

And as for the newer power cross feed models, well I can't afford them so I've no idea - mucho brasso me thinks.

Often wondered why you need a power cross feed on a small lathe like a Myford ?

It's not like it's going to take all day to face something off.

I now have a sound basic Super 7 MK 2 having traded my almost mint ML7 last year, I don't feel the need or additional expense of power-cross-feed or even a gearbox; setting up the machine is part of my Model Engineering activity. I did however want to access the additional higher spindle speeds for smaller work.

Someone mentioned proper bearings are fitted on the ML7R and Super 7 - I would argue that they are different to allow the higher speed range - the bearing design on the ML7 appears to have served very well for many years, especially if you stick to the speed limitations and keep them oiled. The white metal construction also continues to serve very well in millions of car engines.

Phil

For me, the main differences/advantages would be the TriLeva for the 7 and the 60 tooth bull wheel for the Super ... and a 3 phase drive system for either.

Rgds

Bill

I've also got what is often referred to as a Mk1 S7 but find the original (drum-brake type) clutch very noisy at the higher speeds. Can anyone suggest ways of making it quieter or can it be easily swapped for the later type?

I haven't noticed any noises at all from mine, perhaps this warrants further investigation. Mine requires some serious force to actuate, I think the ramp on the hardened actuating shaft is worn or ridged if I recall correctly. Mine constantly looses adjustment no matter how hard I try to lock the grub screw on to the adjusting screw (I think its full of oil from being a bit to generous on the nipples)

When I received the machine I stripped this shaft down as someone had put the thrust washers in the wrong places, while I was there I gave everything a bit of a clean and tidy too.

I have a copy of the pages which details the old clutch mechanism with an exploded type view and its adjustment procedure. I could perhaps dig this out if you require, I think I found it via google.

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=preSN8126-BIG 

Edited By Russ B on 28/05/2015 12:43:10